Art, nature and the human body were inspirations at Osklen today, where hairstyles took central focus backstage.
The Zero + Maria Cornejo SS15 collection was a combination of nostalgia and femininity, inspired by a recent trip to London and Venice which was reminiscent of her time spent there in her youth—Cornejo used lace and light weight fabrics to create a casually understated effect. Dick Page for Shiseido and James Pecis for PHYTO and T3 were tasked with creating a fresh, summery, innocent look.
The beauty look at Derek Lam’s Spring/Summer 2015 fashion show perfectly captured a new take on nude. What started out as a conceptual “no makeup look” evolved into a sophisticated, natural color palette of lavender, mauve and violet.
Tom Pecheux for M·A·C was inspired by the colors and quality of Lam’s materials used in his fashion; he brilliantly centered the makeup look around a violet eye, making it the perfect complement to his cool, textured, earthy tones. Using a lipstick called Violetta, he placed it on the eyelid with his finger and blended it up into the crease.
Eyeshadow in ‘Force of Nature’ (a slightly metallic, taupe-y mauve), was used on top of the lower eyelid only, playing off the creaminess of the lipstick and creating the perfect blend of a warm/cool neutral. Brown eyeliner and a coat of black mascara, followed by a coat of violet mascara just on the tips of the lashes, finished it off. Satin skin, a peachy pink cream blush and a nude peach lip completed this stunning new take on neutral.
Nails were polished and fresh, courtesy of JINsoon’s nude nail combination of Nostalgia, a semi-opaque rose-beige, and Muse, a sheer pink (the perfect combo to complement any and all skin tones!). A high-shine top coat left an overall effect that was finished yet understated.
Meanwhile, Orlando Pita for Phyto and T3 wanted the models’ hair to be textured and earthy. He created an off-center part after drying their hair and adding shine and moisture, then hair-sprayed around the ears and up. A do-rag was fitted just over the models’ heads, so the hair stayed flat throughout the prep and the strands kept their texture. A large-barrel curling iron was used to add imperfections and bumps at the end of the hair, which made the completed style “look good, but not overdone.”
Tadashi Shoji is known for the simplicity, lines, shapes and textures of his clothing, and the makeup and nails perfectly captured this trademark for his Spring 2015 collection: Venice and Adriatic architecture, specifically a building called Cad-Oro. Built in 1400-1600, Cad-Oro is a marble masterpiece, so Pep Gay for M·A·C used this influence to create a ‘finished, expensive’ look.
Skin was dewy and done without heaviness. Face and Body Foundation was applied after moisturized skin. Concealer was used only on blemishes, and finished off with a dusting of translucent powder, which was also used around the nose and under eyes.
Intensity was added to the eyes with Black Cream Liner, applied in a thin line on the root of the lashes. To recreate a mother-of-pearl effect, a new Eye Gloss in Pearl Varnish was painted on with a small flat brush from the lash roots up to the brow. This iridescent pearly gloss – super thick and tacky – made the eyes look finished and gorgeous. Luna Cream Color Base, applied with the fingers on the cheekbones, offered a mother-of-pearl effect. Completing the look was a new shade of Lipglass in Sakura, an iridescent shade with a pink undertone. Pep says pink undertones [make] the face alive and fresh.
Katie Hughes with butter LONDON created a showstopper nail look, perfectly fitting to match the textures and architectural quality of Shoji’s fashions. High Tea, a new nude (a hybrid of sheer and full pigment nude), was painted on first. Then, a fine-tipped striping brush was dipped on Full Monty, a gorgeous gold, and painted in a crosshatch diamond pattern.
Charlotte Tilbury & model.
The world-class makeup artist has created her own collection, including cult-status skincare and complete makeup looks to fit any style. Check out our new Charlotte Tilbury Beauty.
Kate Fannin, our beauty trend editor, dishes on her favorite new product from Armani—and its surprising versatility.
When we meet with vendors to see all of the great new products for the upcoming season, I keep a running list of must-get-as-soon-as-they-launch items. The waiting is truly the hardest part, since we often see products many months in advance! One of the products on my cannot-come-too-soon list for fall is Giorgio Armani’s new Eye & Brow Maestro. This one’s a game-changer for sure.