From “Rock & Roll Spanish Women” and “Smoky Chelsea Girls,” to “Utilitarian Punk” and “Twiggy’s Daughter”—these were just a few of the inspirations heard backstage as we endured the freezing temps in NYC for Fall 2015 Fashion Week. Equipped with weatherproof boots (thank yo,u Aquatalia and Valentino!) and Mom’s super-warm hand-knit legwarmers (thank you, MOM!), we braved wind, snow and sauna-like backstage tents to see fall beauty in all its splendor.
The Eyes Have It
Fall has always been the season for the Smoky Eye. And 2015 is no exception, although new, modern approaches make it exciting, sophisticated and definitely dramatic. Regardless of the techniques and colors used, we saw many cool variations including:
Classic: From gorgeous greys and deep browns, to modern cinnamon and plum tones, smoky never looked so good (Christian Siriano, Alexander Wang, Derek Lam).
Senior M·A·C Artist Regan Rabanal shares the trade secrets and products behind the looks they designed for the runways at Fashion Week.
At Rolando Santana, Director of Makeup Artistry Romero Jennings was inspired by the idea of a glowing, daytime smoky eye. Using eyeshadow creams, he created a satiny lavender shade that swept over the upper eyelid and wrapped around the outside corner of the eye to the lower eyelid. Vanilla Pigment was the star product for the skin. He accented cheekbones by buffing the product to reveal its pearl finish.
Our beauty trend editor, Kate Fannin, recaps her trip to New York Fashion Week and shares the top beauty trends coming down the runway (and product picks to start trying now!).
Michael Kors, Kate Spade
1950s all-American. 1960s jet-setter. 1970’s Pop Art. These were just a few of the inspirations we heard backstage as we headed to Fashion Week for our biannual beauty adventure. Read on for a summary of the new beauty looks, trends and techniques we saw (plus a retrospective of my various hairstyles over the past week—because when you’re dressed in all-black, your most unique accessory quickly becomes your hair. And shoes).
Art, nature and the human body were inspirations at Osklen today, where hairstyles took central focus backstage.
We can’t think of any designer who is more known for sheer romanticism than Vera Wang. Her spring/summer ’15 collection was the exact representation of that—from fashion to makeup and nails.
The Zero + Maria Cornejo SS15 collection was a combination of nostalgia and femininity, inspired by a recent trip to London and Venice which was reminiscent of her time spent there in her youth—Cornejo used lace and light weight fabrics to create a casually understated effect. Dick Page for Shiseido and James Pecis for PHYTO and T3 were tasked with creating a fresh, summery, innocent look.
Our beauty trend editor, Kate Fannin, ran into the ineffable Charlotte Tilbury hard at work behind the scenes of New York Fashion Week.
Charlotte was creating a “no makeup, makeup” look for the Edun show.
The beauty look at Derek Lam’s Spring/Summer 2015 fashion show perfectly captured a new take on nude. What started out as a conceptual “no makeup look” evolved into a sophisticated, natural color palette of lavender, mauve and violet.
Tom Pecheux for M·A·C was inspired by the colors and quality of Lam’s materials used in his fashion; he brilliantly centered the makeup look around a violet eye, making it the perfect complement to his cool, textured, earthy tones. Using a lipstick called Violetta, he placed it on the eyelid with his finger and blended it up into the crease.
Eyeshadow in ‘Force of Nature’ (a slightly metallic, taupe-y mauve), was used on top of the lower eyelid only, playing off the creaminess of the lipstick and creating the perfect blend of a warm/cool neutral. Brown eyeliner and a coat of black mascara, followed by a coat of violet mascara just on the tips of the lashes, finished it off. Satin skin, a peachy pink cream blush and a nude peach lip completed this stunning new take on neutral.
Nails were polished and fresh, courtesy of JINsoon’s nude nail combination of Nostalgia, a semi-opaque rose-beige, and Muse, a sheer pink (the perfect combo to complement any and all skin tones!). A high-shine top coat left an overall effect that was finished yet understated.
Meanwhile, Orlando Pita for Phyto and T3 wanted the models’ hair to be textured and earthy. He created an off-center part after drying their hair and adding shine and moisture, then hair-sprayed around the ears and up. A do-rag was fitted just over the models’ heads, so the hair stayed flat throughout the prep and the strands kept their texture. A large-barrel curling iron was used to add imperfections and bumps at the end of the hair, which made the completed style “look good, but not overdone.”
Makeup maven Alex Box captures the art of illumination at Issey Miyake spring/summer 2014, where she led the M·A·C PRO team.
“The makeup for this collection is very fresh and poetic,” says Box, backstage, on the look she crafted alongside Yoshiyuki Miyamae, Issey Miyake’s womenswear designer. “It’s about an absence of makeup and what I’ve left out. I’m playing with lights and shadow, which means creating a very fresh, blue-based look. I’m pressing in points of highlights on the skin, rather than doing just a blanket all over.”
Box achieved an opalescent, watercolor effect.
Get the look using M·A·C Face & Body Foundation.
Head over to The Thread for the complete designer dish on the show.
Photos by Ford Leland
What are the CEW Beauty Insiders’ Choice Awards? They’re basically the Oscars of beauty, voted on by 5,500 industry pros (hence the ‘Cosmetic Executive Women’ moniker) and given to their picks for best products of the year. Here are some highlights from the 19th annual awards ceremony, held recently in New York.
Best Anti-Aging Skincare: philosophy full of promise dual-ended serum
Best Bath and Body: Bliss fatgirlsixpack Tummy-Toning Gel
Best Acne Treatment: GlamGlow SUPER-MUD Clearing Treatment
Best Cleanser: Fresh Rose Cleansing Foam
Best Eye Treatment: Lancôme Génifique Yeux Light-Pearl Eye-Illuminating Youth Activating Concentrate
Best Moisturizer: Clinique Moisture Surge Intense Skin Fortifying Hydrator
Best Sun Care: Elizabeth Arden PREVAGE Triple Defense Shield Broad Spectrum SPF 50+++ (a Nordstrom exclusive!)
Best Lip Makeup: Dior Addict Extreme Lipstick
Congratulations to all the winners!