From “Rock & Roll Spanish Women” and “Smoky Chelsea Girls,” to “Utilitarian Punk” and “Twiggy’s Daughter”—these were just a few of the inspirations heard backstage as we endured the freezing temps in NYC for Fall 2015 Fashion Week. Equipped with weatherproof boots (thank yo,u Aquatalia and Valentino!) and Mom’s super-warm hand-knit legwarmers (thank you, MOM!), we braved wind, snow and sauna-like backstage tents to see fall beauty in all its splendor.
The Eyes Have It
Fall has always been the season for the Smoky Eye. And 2015 is no exception, although new, modern approaches make it exciting, sophisticated and definitely dramatic. Regardless of the techniques and colors used, we saw many cool variations including:
Classic: From gorgeous greys and deep browns, to modern cinnamon and plum tones, smoky never looked so good (Christian Siriano, Alexander Wang, Derek Lam).
‘Delicate, refined beauty’ were the words renowned makeup artist James Kaliardos used to describe his stunning makeup creation for NARS cosmetics at Rodarte today. We immediately noticed light literally bouncing off the model’s skin, which made us wonder—it’s the middle of winter; how is skin this pearlescent even possible? That was our first moment of wonder. The second happened when we saw the gorgeous glint coming from the models’ eyes. Being the beauty girls that we are, we flocked for a closer inspection. We were delighted to see sparkle underneath the eyes and just knew: this look was our spirit animal.
The historic Prince George Ballroom provided a stunning backdrop for Alice + Olivia’s Fall 2015 collection. Walking past racks of richly embellished clothing into the backstage makeup area, we knew the accompanying makeup would not disappoint.
Sarah Lucero of stila Cosmetics created a ‘rock and roll bohemian girl who’s a touch romantic’ in this Biba-inspired look. Liquid liner in a glossy black was glided onto the eye first, with black smudge pot just on the end to create a matte soft wing. Mascara was swiped onto the lashes, concentrated more at the roots in the center of the eye for a wide-eyed effect (we love that tip!) for the dreamiest, most feathery lashes we’ve ever seen. Lips were a concoction of two layers of textures—the first, liquid lip paint in a fiery red matte finish, underneath that was a glossy merlot shade for a shiny vinyl finish.
The result was sultry and dramatic, and we’ll definitely take some cues from this swinging starlet look for Fall.
A beauty quickie from behind the scenes with M•A•C and the always-energetic, supremely talented makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury. We love the mod vibe she created with a downward-turned line on the outer half of the upper eyelid, flushed cheeks (lipstick applied with fingers) and a little lip conditioner. Such a fresh, simple look.
Beauty Trend Editor Kate Fannin reuniting backstage with Tilbury.
Demonstrating a “bedroom eyes” eyeliner tip.
Putting a few finishing touches on the final beauty look backstage.
The final look!
Runway to realway spotted backstage at Carmen Marc Valvo: M•A•C lead artist Romero Jennings created “painted-on” lashes by applying black liquid liner directly on lids to mimic real lashes. Spaced evenly and following the natural curve of the lid, they blend right in with real lashes for an artistic approach to mascara.
The makeup look at Tibi was “pretty but not overly done” to balance the Alaskan-Inuit inspired clothing. Fresh, clean skin and illuminated cheeks were paired with a soft wash of pink on eyes (including applying Blush in Nude Pink on top of White eyeshadow!) and matte pink lips in Pink Martini Lip Color (launching Fall 2015). Only a hint of Everything Mascara was used to finish the look.
On nails, Jin Soon Choi created a “snow-tipped neutral” inspired by the shape of snowy mountains to complement the icy palette throughout the clothing collection. After a base coat, nails were applied with two coats of Nostalgia. Once dry, she then painted a curved line across the middle of the nail to tips in a new color called Doux (launching this spring). According to Choi, “it’s okay if they’re all a little different – if it curves, just go with it!”
How fitting that on a cold NYC morning of a mere 9 degrees, we found ourselves backstage at kate spade new york, where the models were made to look like girls going on a chic winter walk.
You know those amazing shows with the A-list models, front-row celebs and influencers clutching fancy swag bags while watching beautiful clothes being paraded down the runway? That public face of Fashion Week is one our beauty trend editor Kate Fannin rarely sees. No, she’s in the frenzy backstage, where all the real action is—ducking between clouds of hairspray and noting each flourish of the makeup artists’ brushes—all to see firsthand the freshest trends and hottest products for seasons to come.
Before she sets out for a week in the thick of it, she shares her pro tips on surviving the madness, who she’s excited to see and the little things that make it all worthwhile—and we’re taking note!
Senior M·A·C Artist Regan Rabanal shares the trade secrets and products behind the looks they designed for the runways at Fashion Week.
At Rolando Santana, Director of Makeup Artistry Romero Jennings was inspired by the idea of a glowing, daytime smoky eye. Using eyeshadow creams, he created a satiny lavender shade that swept over the upper eyelid and wrapped around the outside corner of the eye to the lower eyelid. Vanilla Pigment was the star product for the skin. He accented cheekbones by buffing the product to reveal its pearl finish.
Our beauty trend editor, Kate Fannin, recaps her trip to New York Fashion Week and shares the top beauty trends coming down the runway (and product picks to start trying now!).
Michael Kors, Kate Spade
1950s all-American. 1960s jet-setter. 1970’s Pop Art. These were just a few of the inspirations we heard backstage as we headed to Fashion Week for our biannual beauty adventure. Read on for a summary of the new beauty looks, trends and techniques we saw (plus a retrospective of my various hairstyles over the past week—because when you’re dressed in all-black, your most unique accessory quickly becomes your hair. And shoes).