From “Rock & Roll Spanish Women” and “Smoky Chelsea Girls,” to “Utilitarian Punk” and “Twiggy’s Daughter”—these were just a few of the inspirations heard backstage as we endured the freezing temps in NYC for Fall 2015 Fashion Week. Equipped with weatherproof boots (thank you, Aquatalia and Valentino!) and Mom’s super-warm hand-knit legwarmers (thank you, MOM!), we braved wind, snow and sauna-like backstage tents to see fall beauty in all its splendor.
The Eyes Have It
Fall has always been the season for the Smoky Eye. And 2015 is no exception, although new, modern approaches make it exciting, sophisticated and definitely dramatic. Regardless of the techniques and colors used, we saw many cool variations including:
Classic: From gorgeous greys and deep browns, to modern cinnamon and plum tones, smoky never looked so good (Christian Siriano, Alexander Wang, Derek Lam).
It’s Sunday morning and you’ve just woken up. You study last night’s lingering eye makeup in the mirror and think, “This looks good. I’m wearing this today!” That’s exactly the eye look seen at Blue Les Copains by Peter Som this morning. Chantel Miller with M•A•C Cosmetics described the makeup as “the girl who used to live downtown but moved uptown. This is her out-to-brunch face; she’s rocking the makeup she had on last night.”
Of course, we don’t advocate sleeping in your makeup, so here’s how to re-create this cool eyeliner look on a clean face. Blacktrack Fluidline was used to line the top lash line, which Chantel then diffused with two shades of shadow: Copperplate and Coquette. She said it made the liner look dirty (in a good way, we promise) and a bit dusty. The lower liner was again Blacktrack, only smudged with the 239 brush. A blue-grey Technakohl eyeliner (new for fall) was applied along the waterline and outer lid only. The effect was made to look like kohl pencil that had worn down, which just somehow looked cooler than a perfect line.
Last, Dusk cream color base (a gorgeous brown) was pressed into the center of the lower lash line. This beautiful sheen was again meant to look like the kohl pencil had worn off a bit, which only gave the appearance of a slightly lived-in feel with a lot more character. We loved Chantel’s advice about why we should try layering and blending our eyeliner with eyeshadow this fall; she said it makes the liner look a bit dusty and less black. This is an especially great tip if you think that black liner is too much for you. We can’t wait to experiment!
“Delicate, refined beauty” were the words renowned makeup artist James Kaliardos used to describe his stunning makeup creation for NARS cosmetics at Rodarte today. We immediately noticed light literally bouncing off the model’s skin, which made us wonder—it’s the middle of winter, how is skin this pearlescent even possible? That was our first moment of wonder. The second happened when we saw the gorgeous glint coming from the models’ eyes. Being the beauty girls that we are, we flocked for a closer inspection. We were delighted to see sparkle underneath the eyes and just knew: this look was our spirit animal.
The historic Prince George Ballroom provided a stunning backdrop for Alice + Olivia‘s fall 2015 collection. Walking past racks of richly embellished clothing into the backstage makeup area, we knew the accompanying makeup would not disappoint.
Sarah Lucero of stila Cosmetics created a “rock ‘n’ roll bohemian girl who’s a touch romantic” in this Biba-inspired look. First, liquid liner in a glossy black was glided onto the eyelid, with black smudge pot added just on the end to create a matte soft wing. Mascara was swiped onto the lashes, concentrated more at the roots in the center of the eye for a wide-eyed effect (we love that tip!) for the dreamiest, most feathery lashes we’ve ever seen. Lips were a concoction of two layers of textures: the first, liquid lip paint in a fiery red matte, with a glossy merlot shade for a shiny vinyl finish.
The result was sultry and dramatic, and we’ll definitely take some cues from this swinging starlet look for fall.
A beauty quickie from behind the scenes with M•A•C and the always-energetic, supremely talented makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury. We love the mod vibe she created with a downward-turned line on the outer half of the upper eyelid, flushed cheeks (lipstick applied with fingers) and a little lip conditioner. Such a fresh, simple look.
Beauty Trend Editor Kate Fannin reuniting backstage with Tilbury.
Demonstrating a “bedroom eyes” eyeliner tip.
Putting a few finishing touches on the final beauty look backstage.
The final look!
Runway to realway spotted backstage at Carmen Marc Valvo: M•A•C lead artist Romero Jennings created “painted-on” lashes by applying black liquid liner directly on lids to mimic real lashes. Spaced evenly and following the natural curve of the lid, they blend right in with real lashes for an artistic approach to mascara.
The makeup look at Tibi was “pretty but not overly done” to balance the Alaskan-Inuit inspired clothing. Fresh, clean skin and illuminated cheeks were paired with a soft wash of pink on eyes (including applying blush in Nude Pink on top of white eyeshadow!) and matte pink lips in Pink Martini Lip Color (launching fall 2015). Only a hint of Everything Mascara was used to finish the look.
On nails, Jin Soon Choi created a “snow-tipped neutral” inspired by the shape of snowy mountains to complement the icy palette throughout the clothing collection. After a base coat, nails were applied with two coats of Nostalgia. Once dry, she then painted a curved line across the middle of the nail to tips in a new color called Doux (launching this spring). According to Choi, “It’s okay if they’re all a little different – if it curves, just go with it!”
How fitting that on a cold NYC morning of a mere 9 degrees, we found ourselves backstage at kate spade new york, where the models were made to look like girls going on a chic winter walk.
You know those amazing shows with the A-list models, front-row celebs and influencers clutching fancy swag bags while watching beautiful clothes being paraded down the runway? That public face of Fashion Week is one our beauty trend editor Kate Fannin rarely sees. No, she’s in the frenzy backstage, where all the real action is—ducking between clouds of hairspray and noting each flourish of the makeup artists’ brushes—all to see firsthand the freshest trends and hottest products for seasons to come.
Before she sets out for a week in the thick of it, she shares her pro tips on surviving the madness, who she’s excited to see and the little things that make it all worthwhile—and we’re taking note!
’Twas the season to indulge, friends, but now ’tis the season to atone. Throughout the month of January, we’ll be bringing you all sorts of Wellness Realness—information and inspiration you can use to get out of lax mode and into good-for-you mode. Or at least stop eating cookies for lunch and skipping your morning run.
Amanda Torres isn’t just part of the team of knowing voices at the other end of the line when you connect with our online Beauty Stylist program. She’s also a self-described gym rat, which makes her the perfect person to help you fill your virtual gym bag with sweat-proof beauty products for your workout.
“My love for fitness stems from a resolution-turned-reality when I lost 75 pounds between 2013 and 2014,” Torres told us. “I find myself at the gym five nights a week, and I know that even with my extensive beauty background, being beautiful at the gym can be tough!“
Notice she doesn’t say impossible. Nope. Our beauty pro has the eight products you need—and lots of good tips too. In fact, we’ll just slide on over and give her the floor.