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Beauty Report

 

Our beauty trend editor, Kate Fannin, recaps her trip to New York Fashion Week and shares the top beauty trends coming down the runway (and product picks to start trying now!).

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Top: Michael Kors; bottom: Carmen Marc Valvo

1950s all-American. 1960s jet-setter. 1970s Pop Art. These were just a few of the inspirations we heard about backstage at Fashion Week during our biannual beauty adventure. Read on for a summary of the new beauty looks, trends and techniques we saw. (Plus, a retrospective of my various hairstyles over the past week—because when you’re dressed in all black, your most unique accessory quickly becomes your hair. And shoes.)

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Art, nature and the human body were inspirations at Osklen today, where hairstyles took central focus backstage.

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We’re accustomed to seeing polished and refined from Narciso Rodriguez, so it was a dramatic surprise to see a bit of punk and edge in the makeup Dick Page planned for the show. Inspired by Debbie Harry, Page used versions of eyeliner as the wow factor—including pencil, cream, liquid and, of course, mascara.

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The liner was a wedge shape on the outer lid, and when models opened their eyes there was a bit of transfer on their eyelids. Page let it be, and allowed a more lived-in look. When we asked how darkly to apply the liner, he replied “keep going until you can’t see anymore.” Noted!

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This was the 8th and final show for Deborah Lippmann, and she went out with a bang. Her last nail look was a matte camel color—a color she described as a “weird, cool camel.” The concoction consisted of a base coat, two coats of Terranova, dried after 1-2 minutes, then finished off with Flat Top, a mattifier.

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The completed look left us in agreement with Page on this quote about his makeup inspiration: “Debbie Harry on her worst day is cooler than us on our best day.” Touché!

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We can’t think of any designer who is more known for sheer romanticism than Vera Wang. Her spring/summer ’15 collection was the exact representation of that—from fashion to makeup and nails.

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Our beauty trend editor, Kate Fannin, ran into the ineffable Charlotte Tilbury as she was hard at work behind the scenes of New York Fashion Week.

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Charlotte was creating a “no-makeup makeup” look for the Edun show.

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The Zero + Maria Cornejo SS15 collection was a combination of nostalgia and femininity, inspired by a recent trip to London and Venice which was reminiscent of her time spent there in her youth—Cornejo used lace and light weight fabrics to create a casually understated effect. Dick Page for Shiseido and James Pecis for PHYTO and T3 were tasked with creating a fresh, summery, innocent look.

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The beauty look at Derek Lam’s Spring/Summer 2015 fashion show perfectly captured a new take on nude. What started out as a conceptual “no makeup look” evolved into a sophisticated, natural color palette of lavender, mauve and violet.

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Tom Pecheux for M·A·C was inspired by the colors and quality of Lam’s materials used in his fashion; he brilliantly centered the makeup look around a violet eye, making it the perfect complement to his cool, textured, earthy tones. Using a lipstick called Violetta, he placed it on the eyelid with his finger and blended it up into the crease.

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Force of Nature eyeshadow, a slightly metallic taupe-y mauve, was used on top of the lower eyelid only, playing off the creaminess of the lipstick and creating the perfect blend of a warm/cool neutral. Brown eyeliner and a coat of black mascara, followed by a coat of violet mascara just on the tips of the lashes, finished it off. Satin skin, a peachy pink cream blush and a nude peach lip completed this stunning new take on neutral.

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Nails were polished and fresh, courtesy of Jin Soon’s nude nail combination of Nostalgia, a semi-opaque rose-beige, and Muse, a sheer pink (the perfect combo to complement any and all skin tones!). A high-shine top coat left an overall effect that was finished yet understated.

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Meanwhile, Orlando Pita for Phyto and T3 wanted the models’ hair to be textured and earthy. He created an off-center part after drying their hair and adding shine and moisture, then hair-sprayed around the ears and up. A do-rag was fitted just over the models’ heads, so the hair stayed flat throughout the prep and the strands kept their texture. A large-barrel curling iron was used to add imperfections and bumps at the end of the hair, which made the completed style “look good, but not overdone.”

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The spring 2015 Tibi collection included an array of textures of quilting, embroidery and pleating. It featured a neutral color palette—ranging from a base of earth tones in grey, white and sand and paired with touches of watery blues, fiery oranges and dark greens. The monochromatic makeup look created by Kimberly Soane from Bobbi Brown replicated flushed windswept cheeks, rosy bitten lips and warm neutral eyes.

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Sexy, effortless beauty was the look at Jason Wu’s spring/summer 2015 show, where Lancôme skincare and makeup were used to create creamy, dewy skin and soft, smoky eyes.

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Tadashi Shoji is known for the simplicity, lines, shapes and textures of his clothing, and the makeup and nails perfectly captured this trademark for his Spring 2015 collection: Venice and Adriatic architecture, specifically a building called Cad-Oro. Built in 1400-1600, Cad-Oro is a marble masterpiece, so Pep Gay for M·A·C used this influence to create a ‘finished, expensive’ look.

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Skin was dewy and done without heaviness. Face and Body Foundation was applied after moisturized skin. Concealer was used only on blemishes, and finished off with a dusting of translucent powder, which was also used around the nose and under eyes.

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Intensity was added to the eyes with Black Cream Liner, applied in a thin line on the root of the lashes. To recreate a mother-of-pearl effect, a new Eye Gloss in Pearl Varnish was painted on with a small flat brush from the lash roots up to the brow. This iridescent pearly gloss – super thick and tacky – made the eyes look finished and gorgeous. Luna Cream Color Base, applied with the fingers on the cheekbones, offered a mother-of-pearl effect. Completing the look was a new shade of Lipglass in Sakura, an iridescent shade with a pink undertone. Pep says pink undertones [make] the face alive and fresh.

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Katie Hughes with butter LONDON created a showstopper nail look, perfectly fitting to match the textures and architectural quality of Shoji’s fashions. High Tea, a new nude (a hybrid of sheer and full pigment nude), was painted on first. Then, a fine-tipped striping brush was dipped on Full Monty, a gorgeous gold, and painted in a crosshatch diamond pattern.

See all our Fashion Week Coverage
[Photos by Kent Worthington]