On account of the modest neckline, cloaking capabilities and hickey-hiding potential, turtlenecks have a reputation as a conservative clothing choice. But as these street-style stars show, that dull distinction is unwarranted. Turtlenecks can be sexy and daring, and are easily introduced as a foundational piece in the edgiest outfits.
Many famous folks sport turtlenecks—check out this Tumblr for hilarious proof. But forget Steve Jobs’ basic black top. Ignore Kim Kardashian’s rubber numbers. Whether plain or as a layer in a carefully constructed look, turtlenecks are this season’s transitional piece.
Fashion Week offered plenty evidence that this classic shirt is keeping it cool.
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A while back we told you about a cool social media contest called Clergerie Girls, in which the man-repelling style icon Leandra Medine would team up with Robert Clergerie creative director Roland Mouret to select an Instagram-sourced collaborator for the beloved line of oxfords, wedges, slides and sandals.
Man Repeller’s Leandra Medine, Robert Clergerie creative director Roland Mouret and Katy Shayne—ultimate Clergerie Girl
(All party images courtesy Robert Clergerie)
Just before we all convened for Paris Fashion Week, the lucky gal was named—and toward the end of the trip, we got a chance to see the brand’s fall 2016 collection and celebrate at a star-studded, especially well-shod dinner party with these smart, thoughtful women of style.
The industry’s biggest benefits when someone from the masthead of a fashion glossy crosses over to the design side? She brings the magazine vibe with her. That’s what’s up with Kym Ellery, who left gorgeously tactile digest-sized, book-like magazines on all the front row seats at her Palais de Tokyo Fall 2016 runway presentation.
The former Russh stylist and editor had some pretty great other things for her audience, too: liquid gold lame, double silk georgette, turn-of-the-century blouses, lingerie, fur and those trademark flares. Tucked inside the mag was this explanation: “It’s a collection that explores the contrast between old and new… A sudden click, a lightbulb, a fleeting feeling, remembering something that doesn’t necessarily exist.”
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Our beauty team hit up a slew of backstage runways at Fashion Week, catching up and grazing shoulders with industry bigwigs the likes of Bobbi Brown, François Nars, stila, butter LONDON and Jin Soon Choi, and taking notes on fall’s biggest makeup trends.
What stood out to them as the biggest beauty trends on the spring ’16 runways? For one, individualized contouring and brows, like the ones created at the hands of experts like Shiseido’s Dick Page for Narciso Rodriguez. In seasons past, we’ve seen our share of strong contouring and bold brows, but this year was different. Show after show, artists let the model’s natural features dictate the beauty, focusing on accentuating natural assets, like amping up already god-given bushy brows.
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Coming soon to Nordstrom: the very French, ’70s-rooted label Sonia Rykiel, and we couldn’t be more excited. Known and loved for a legacy of killer knits and a for-women, by-women ethos, the house is about feminine spirit, intellect and strength and a very Parisienne point of view. The Fall 2016 collection, from recently appointed artistic director Julie de Libran, is in turn, the fourth chapter of what she sees as “imaginary conversations.”
It’s a dialogue about retro stripes, dandy bows, military coats and jewel toned fur—and in some places, it was illustrated by collaborator Maggie Cardelus, whose yellow and black print is made up of portraits depicting the designer and artistic director along with Sonia, her daughter Nathalie (the company’s VP) and her granddaughter Lola (who decamped to New York and the American communications office).
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Paris shone with subtlety this season as established designers experimented with new silhouettes and a fresh crop of creatives—including Koché and Atlein—introduced their vision for the urban sophisticate. Although there weren’t exactly pyrotechnics on the runway, the City of Light shimmered with the obvious skill and vision of the world-class labels who show there.
Here are some of our highlights.
1. Demna Gvsalia’s first Balenciaga collection sent reverberations through the fashion world. Simultaneously showing that nothing and everything was sacred, Gvsalia played with the storied house’s reputation for angular suiting by creating sloped shouldered and hunchbacked silhouettes, disfiguring classic shapes to inject an irreverent sensibility.
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If anyone in fashion can stage a show inclusive of Lou Reed, The Wizard of Oz and crazy cat women of a certain age, it’s Jun Takahashi of SPACE brand Undercover. On one hand, he was the subject of a recent immersive retrospective at a prestigious Tokyo art gallery and is a long-time friend and colleague of Comme des Garçons‘ Rei Kawakuboon and on the other, he’s a streetwear icon and an ex-punk. Not that those things are mutually exclusive, just that Jun is an artist who compromises a high/low mix of technical beauty, achingly enigmatic originality and clothes you want to make a hip-hop/skateboarding music video in.
Basically, he contains multitudes—all of which are so perfectly fine-tuned they end up relating even when it seems like they shouldn’t.
A few days after a show that the New York Times described as “poetic,” we visited the showroom to get a look at the wonderfully disparate elements all together in one room.
Back when I met up with Mira Mikati back in London—that’s where she’s based—to talk about her upcoming exclusive capsule for SPACE and get a preview of her Paris Fashion Week showcase presentation, she told me there were some things she just couldn’t reveal yet, because she wanted me to be surprised.
As with every season, Mira’s Fall is an affront to sartorial conformity and what she calls the Groundhog Day-like dreariness of dark colors and same, same, same. And like many of her seasons, Fall is about travel.
Only this time it’s about not traveling; it’s about staying home—which, for various reasons such as the perceived and real danger of transit, she has recently done more of. I asked Mira if she meant it was about a staycation. Her eyes lit up, “What is a staycation?” I explained the American term and she was basically thrilled. Yes, Mira Mikati’s Fall 2016 collection is about staycation. It’s about the adventure and exploration that one is both forced and allowed to have when one stays inside.
The surprise is that her way of illustrating all this was to insert the funnest house in the world—a bouncy house—inside a grand Parisian structure, and invite everyone in to stay for awhile.
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Usually one to put on a show, Karl Lagerfeld has moved on from his CHANEL airports, supermarkets and street cafés to a refreshingly subdued runway with simple white carpet and gold seating—c’est tout–at the Grand Palais.
For fall, the legendary designer reworked the brand’s classics. Multimedia boater hats, exaggerated pearl necklaces and camellia motifs–that ranged from large prints to heavily appliquéd cuffs–combined retro and trendy. The iconic CHANEL tweeds were saturated in neon berry hues, sometimes worked in with denim, and always paired with matching riding boots and caps. Standout pieces with sure street-style futures include the charming and ethereal, tiered ivory lace frocks in every length and the oversized pearl necklaces that accessorized the majority of looks.