Fashion Week Journal for Monday, March 9
As this season’s quartet of Fashion Weeks zipped itself closed and exited stage right yesterday and I boarded a plane bound for familiar faces, the voice in my head was never more like the diaristic Doogie Howser crossed with SJP doing her Carrie Bradshaw narrations. So please indulge me as I attempt to make some sense of the sit-com/sci-fi/drama that was these last 30 days of runways, real ways, icons, offbeats and more.
I’m not ready to bring my Fashion Week coverage to an end per se—stay tuned in the weeks to come as I take you behind even more brands and share some special showroom stories and scenes—but for now I’ve distilled a month’s worth of impressions and ideas down to five notions of what the phenomenon of Fashion Month means right now.
Designers in Paris tend to march to their own very distinct beat, and the shows there always deliver a beautifully diverse array of trends. There were, however, certain key looks, items and ideas that emerged over the course of all four of this season’s fashion weeks and reached their apex in the French capital.
Among our Top 10: A mood of romantic, gothic Victorian; a nostalgic ’70s feeling; and a clean-edged retro-future idea that recalls the ’60s but is brought up to date with modern fabrications. Fur and layered texture continue in importance and a tailored coat, sleek bag and fitted boot will all be must-haves come fall. High-shine leather and precious dimensional embellishments in unexpected forms keep the look sleek, modern and feminine. Enjoy!
1. ’70S NOSTALGIA
2. GOTHIC ROMANCE
3. RETRO FUTURE
Fashion Week Journal for Tuesday, March 10
Whether you’re watching the runway from home or from the front row, it’s impossible to not be completely captivated by certain models. There are the classically beautiful ones and the offbeat beauties, the girls who seem to come from another world and those who might be your awkward neighbor from kindergarten.
The best ones just have that something. Sometimes they’re even a little distracting—you look at them as closely as you do the clothes they’re modeling. But that plays into the brand too. Some models are cast because they have the perfect proportions and walk like they’re in a dream. Some are cast because they simply possess a spirit that draws you in—and keeps you there.
Napavine, Washington’s Emilie Evander is among the last group. After she walked in the Gucci men’s show (they’re gender benders, you’ll recall) and made big waves there, Alexander Wang cast her as an exclusive for his New York Fashion Week show, then Gucci nabbed her as an exclusive for Milan. And they had her close the show. In Paris, she walked in the much buzzed-about shows for Rick Owens and Margiela.
It’s a big deal to be booked exclusively; it means it’s the only show you do in that market. It means you’re paid more. It means the brand really wants your certain something to represent their certain something. Evander’s certain something is in her 5’11″ frame and her ethereal coloring, but it’s also in her goofball spirit and small-town roots. She’s a total sweetheart and a complete teenager. She loves her mom and family and her community, and she’s curious about the world. She also likes steak and French fries, as I learned when I had dinner with her at Le Relais de l’Entrecote.
Pernille Teisbaek has truly covetable style. Every time I run into her, I want to copy her look and today was no different. Pernille’s the master of Nordic cool–effortless and ahead of the curve. She’s ticked all the biggest trend boxes with today’s outfit, but manages to make each theme feel fresh and inspiring.
I can’t resist an all-denim outfit. Then again, Chloe’s look is far from the traditional Canadian Tuxedo! Raw-edge culottes are cutting-edge trendy, while the denim button-up is a perennial classic. A draped shawl adds some color and volume.
As much as I love the moto jacket, it’s nice to see another leather style represented every once in awhile. The sleek, sharp lines of this jacket are appealing and work well with the more relaxed separates of Rose’s outfit. All-white looks are clean and perfect for the modern minimalist. Platform oxfords and a designer bag add some premium flair.