You can always count on Marchesa for a display of unadulterated formal femininity. Like a waft of perfume, Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig’s elegant gowns slink down the runway each season offering a display of extreme glamour. Soon after each collection debuts, the same dresses drape over Hollywood’s leading ladies on red carpets around the world.
Photo by Indigital Images
For the shows, the beauty must never compete, but cannot be so subtle as to seem casual next to the evening gowns. To create the stunning hair and makeup that complemented Fall 2017’s Chinese-inspired sheaths, Marchesa turned to Moroccanoil and M·A·C.
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Paris is usually the setting for Cecilia Bönström’s Zadig & Voltaire girl. Frankly—pun unabashedly intended—if you were situated in as appealing a locale as the French capital, why would you relocate?
For Fall 2017, however, Bönström decided to plop the Parisian in NYC. This was achieved through athletic silhouettes and primary hues interspersed among lots of black—a color appropriate for any metro.
Dick Page, Shiseido artistic director, countered with his specialty—luminous skin—and pretty pops of color on the eyes and lips. The effect was energetic and youthful, like a newcomer looking wide-eyed at the shiny Big Apple.
“This season’s collection was full of energetic, bright hues. To complement that, I created a makeup look featuring interventions of color—similar to the way you would accessorize clothes—to bring a cohesive believability to the vibrancy of each style,” said Page about the beautiful faces he created for the Zadig & Voltaire show.
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Want a new way to cheat a fresh, youthful face? Yes, we do. Lucky for us, our Nordstrom National Beauty Director Marynell Maddox went backstage at the Fall 2017 Proenza Schouler show to see how M·A·C artists were making the models so radiant. Turns out the trick is a new technique using white eyeliner!
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As though Katharine Hepburn strolled into the court of King Louis XV, A Détacher’s 1930s-styled suits and bow blouses marched the runway underneath hair powdered and piled high. The pale faces were juxtaposed nicely with Mona Kowalska’s bright and patterned clothes. The designer’s theme was “going awry,” a commentary on current politics. So her pantsuits that veered toward the punky seemed like a rallying uniform.
Photo by Indigital Images
To balance Kowalska’s rebellious yet comfortable sportswear collection, Orlando Santiago of Guerlain pulled from the French Court and the Victorian era, symbols of pomp and circumstance when it comes to grooming. Kien Hong of Oribe topped things off with pompadours, that French hairstyle made famous by the king’s courtesan and adopted by subsequent subcultures.
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Amy Smilovic seems to cannily know what women want to wear. Her modern-yet-romantic, professional-yet-playful designs recognize the complexity of contemporary femininity without undermining it. Working dames would delight to have a closet of just Tibi clothes. Even with that strict allegiance, they’d never suffer to find something ideal for the weekend or a fancy party.
So, too, did the beauty at Tibi‘s Fall 2017 show cater to women with plenty of cares beyond lipstick—but those who still want a bit of tint on their way out the door.
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A rebellious spirit ran through the beauty at kate spade new york’s show in the Russian Tea Room. Although historic change is often not pretty, the makeup by M·A·C most certainly was. Imbued with a regal air, M·A·C’s fierce eyes and revolutionary red lips seemed defiant and aristocratic—as if to conjure both the royal court and its coup.
The collection was inspired by the brazen female entertainers of the 1920s Louise Brooks and Josephine Baker, and so the show had a performative and Parisian air. M·A·C complemented these women’s independent streaks with cat-eyed stares, while Deborah Lippmann provided ruby nails that sparkled like crown jewels.
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There’s the common adage that you know you’ve made it when you can go by one name. Dropping the surname signifies that your celebrity has reached household status.
Depending on the zip code (but definitely if it starts with a ‘9’ and a ‘0’), NARS international lead makeup artist Uzo has achieved that level of fame. Uzo chisels cheekbones on Kim (Kardashian) using a beauty blender, she gives Kirsten (Dunst) a rosy glow with highlighter and she has prepped models as super as Naomi (Campbell). So catching up with her backstage as she groomed the lovelies before the Novis show was a real delight, especially when we saw the berry-colored pouts she was painting on the models.
Uzo told us that the matte crimson and satiny magenta lips—pop-art puckers—were the real stars of this look. These high-impact mouths were set off by very polished skin and a refined smoky eye. The bold florals, plaids and color blocking of the Novis collection inspired Uzo’s equally arresting makeup.
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Like Aphrodite rising from Cyprian sea foam or a woodland nymph appearing in the brush, the models in Marchesa’s Spring 2017 bridal collection emerged with natural elements woven into their hair and earrings. Flowers, pearls and clustered crystals framed their faces and crowned their hair. These accessories complemented the airy dresses, themselves decorated in floral appliqués often encrusted with beads and jewels to simulate fresh dew.
To achieve the divinely subtle beauty presented with this collection, Marchesa kept the makeup glowing but minimal, with shimmery liner on the inner eye. Cascading hair was given a light wave then braided into wreaths. Inspired by Eos, the Greek goddess of dawn, Kevin Hughes for MOROCCANOIL created an ethereally romantic but modern hairstyle.
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In case you missed it, our resident Fashion Month foot soldier (editor-on-the-ground Laura Cassidy) reported on Alice + Olivia’s Sacred-Grove-inspired presentation on Tuesday. Now, we’re catching up with Sarah Lucero, lead artist at stila, to chat about how she created a makeup look to match the over-the-top old world kitsch and all that embroidery.
All photos by Masha Maltsava
To riff on Alice + Olivia creative director Stacey Bendet’s love of turbans, long, loose waves and spiritual positivity, Sarah drew inspiration from tarot card readers of the 1800s.
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As our fearless editor-on-the-ground, Laura Cassidy, reported yesterday from the front row of Rodarte, Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s Spring collection was inspired by The Spirit of the Beehive, a 1970’s Spanish film with two young sisters (and their charming childlike imaginations) at the heart of the story.
Runway image: Indigital Images
All Backstage Images: Masha Maltsava
To play off the youthful and dreamy vibe of the collection, James Kaliardos at NARS created a makeup look that’s fresh and radiant—but it’s not about going bare-faced. The trick is his genius combination of products to get a natural glow. Because some of these items won’t be available until February 2017, we substituted your best bets for the here-and-now.
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