The SPACE team‘s fashion week spreadsheet had five new names on it this season: Eric Schlösberg, Eckhaus Latta, Dilara Findikoglu, A.W.A.K.E, and Vejas. Together, they represent our new shop-in-shop, SPACE LAB.
Details from Dilara Findikoglu’s London Fashion Week presentation.
Debuting today in Seattle, Chicago, Los Angeles, Vancouver, Toronto and online, SPACE LAB is a fashion incubator; it’s a way for Olivia and her team to pay special attention to brands that are operating just a little bit outside the lines, and also just breaking their stride. It’s a way to nurture them and stand by them as their careers make important pivots.
And we do mean stand by them: Even though SPACE LAB is set up to stock and mentor five designers at a time for just one season starting this spring, we met with designers during New York and London Fashion Weeks (we’ll catch up with Vejas in Paris in about a week) to see what they’re presenting for next fall.
MEET THE DESIGNERS AND SEE WHAT THEY’RE SHOWING
In a full embrace of the runway-to-retail trend that’s been turning fashion weeks on their head for the past year or so, Burberry’s new collection—unveiled on Monday evening—is for available right here, right now.
Seasons are so last year; Burberry’s February collection was on
London’s runway on Monday and is shoppable now. Image via Burberry
Inspired by British artist Henry Moore, the knitwear, trenches, and handbags referenced his esoteric use of proportion and scale while classic, traditional workwear pieces—trousers, overalls, jackets—were a nod to artisans everywhere.
There was a lot of news backstage at the Topshop Unique show on Sunday afternoon. The three biggest headlines were the announcement of a bridal line, the reveal of some big names in the afternoon’s runway line-up, and the continuation of a buy-it-now, runway-to-retail experience.
Yeah, that means you can shop stripy jumpsuits, silk midis and more right now.
It also means that modern wedding dresses and bridesmaid styles hit Nordstrom (and only Nordstrom—aside from Topshop we’re the exclusive retailer) in April. You’ll also want to know that a beloved British model made something of a runway return—with the daughter of one of America’s biggest action heroes hot on her heels.
WHY SO SECRETIVE? CLICK IN TO READ MORE
Every season Ashley Williams sends out a small poster in lieu of a more typical show invite, and every season it has something to do with being in a slightly sour state of mind. The poster we unwrapped upon arriving for the first show of London Fashion Week, however, went to new heights—or would that be new lows? In Ashley’s world, they’re sort of the same. The poster said “Genuine Misery”; the image was a teeth-baring guard dog.
“My business partner and I, we have this thing, ‘Optimistic emo,'” the designer told me backstage. It’s like an unofficial rule that keeps them in line, she explained; they can be real about their bad moods, but they have to be good-natured about them, too. And while misery is definitely next season’s key word—emblazoned as it is on a killer sweatsuit or two—it’s evened out by a British cowgirl thing and a backstory about sneaking out of parties to go sit by yourself in the woods.
You’ll see it in our slideshow: together those elements—on an urban/outdoor runway—make misery look like good company.
CLICK IN TO SEE THE RUNWAY SHOW AND GO BACKSTAGE
Where does a girl in ruffles, gingham and tulle go? Anywhere she wants to, of course.
Molly Goddard spring 2017; this collection will be online and in stores very soon.
Image by Portia Hunt.
SPACE designer Molly Goddard is one of the biggest names in London right now—in no small part because she’s helped define a look that’s part party girl, part everyday sport-romance, and part remembered fever dream from your very first ballet class. But the bottom line is that you can take anything from her spring collection, add sneakers and a T-shirt, and you’re good for a night of soccer matches, sushi rolls or late-night club tunes.
If you ever wanted to try any of the above in the designer’s hometown, now you can. Just let Molly and her boyfriend/business partner, Tom Shickle, tell you where to go.
CLICK IN FOR MOLLY’S LIST
Fashion people know that Moncler is always going to put on a show. The outerwear brand’s collections are rarely presented without theatrically approximated weather and a big stage production. On Valentine’s Day in the Hammerstein Ballroom, the brand produced a full-on winter ball.
Something like a Doctor Zhivago cotillion, the presentation was a dramatic way of introducing clients to puffers, Nordic knits, traditional plaids and classic houndstooth for fall 2017.
“Well it’s only 18. The rule is: If it’s less than 24, I cook,” says New York-by-way-of-Texas designer Lela Rose. She’s talking about guests, not hours—because if we were talking hours … well, one suspects she’d have a generous rule for hours, too. One that would still allow her to be in the kitchen prepping Oysters Rockefeller in heels.
Lela presented her fall collection at a luncheon at the restaurant Loring Place on Monday afternoon; by Tuesday afternoon she was in her art-filled Tribeca home preparing dinner for tonight’s party, which includes members of her team as well as Nordstrom buyers and friends.
Lela Rose showed her tulip-embellished fall 2017 collection one day
before she hosted a dozen and a half of us at a dinner party.
Based loosely on her just-unveiled collection—which was based loosely on tulips and what she sees as their inherent properties of beauty, hope and resilience—the evening was an opportunity to see Lela as Lela. Beyond her flattering peplum tops and fit-and-flares, she’s a woman who loves being with friends. An urban southerner thoroughly at home in the world.
Perhaps more than any other designer in fashion, Alice + Olivia’s Stacey Bendet loves a fairy tale. Each season she takes a page or two from a storybook saga and brings it to life—for her popular and well-attended presentations, and for the shift dresses and jumpsuits that arrive at our stores all season long.
Fall 2017’s storyline is borrowed from Salman Rushdie’s The Enchantress of Florence. The novel travels from the Mughal empire to Medici-era Italy and beyond, so the room was lavishly adorned with oversized tapestries and gilded mirrors, and the tunics and maxis were embroidered with rich colors and lots of embellishments. And the hair was like … tousled in Tuscany.
And it was Valentine’s Day. So there was that.
CLICK IN; IT’S LIKE TURNING THE PAGE
ICYMI: Several years ago, Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia met as members of the Oscar de la Renta design team, and they decided to start their own line. Monse was born in the design duo’s evenings and weekends, but then just last year Laura and Fernando were given the top jobs at Oscar—they were made co-creative directors. While they’re certainly not the first designers to hold down two jobs (think Jonathan Anderson pulling double duty at J.W. Anderson and Loewe), the OdlR-rooted genesis of Monse made for a special case.
All together now: Fall collections from Monse and Oscar de la Renta take their finale walk. All images by Indigital Images.
It was announced this past January that the pair would show their debut collection as creative directors at Oscar at the same time as the latest from their closely watched two-year-old side project.
A fashion double-header!
Nordstrom’s senior fashion director Shannon Schafer was drawn in by the use of color and opulent fabrics in both presentations; our slideshows get you front row.
CLICK IN TO SEE THE GORGEOUS TWO-FOR-ONE RUNWAY SHOW
Before the Veronica Beard show on Monday afternoon, the brand’s team was taking visitors, one by one and in pairs, in front of a video camera and asking them to talk about their favorite Veronica pieces. Everyone was shouting out the knit and hoodie button-in blazer add-ons, of course—though many were sort of adorably unable to come up with the proper term.
“It’s a dickey!” the producers kept reminding them.
We know exactly what those same fans are going to be shouting out after fall 2017 hits though. The Veronicas added two highly lovable categories to their offerings for the next season, and only one of them might require a little bit of help or correction when the time comes to call them out.
FIND OUT WHAT’S NEW, AND SEE THE NEW COLLECTION