Fashion Week

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Photos by Kristin Yamada

Copenhagen Fashion Week wrapped up last week, but great style never really leaves the Scandinavian metropolis. So many independent fashion designers have their headquarters there, amid the design centers, schools and architecture offices that heavily populate Denmark’s capital. On an average day, the fashions on its residents are enviably cool in a kicked-back way. But when the fashion world descends on this small country, it makes for serious street-style spotting.

Here are just a few looks from CFW that we plan on emulating, and here’s how.

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For lots of brands—particularly those in the emerging designer realm—the runway is no longer on the runway. More and more forward thinkers are walking away from the traditional conventions of Fashion Week and doing their own versions of theater, presentation, experience and the big reveal.

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Scenes of Olivia Kim and the crew in Koché’s runway/alleyway during the fall shows in March.

Here’s an amazing example: when SPACE designer Christelle Kocher unveiled Koché’s current collection in Paris last March, she did so not in a staid, classroomlike setting but in a bustling, multilingual alleyway in the middle of the city.

The result felt something like the French version of a glamorous flash mob, with the pranksters dressed in patchwork velvet and bejeweled tomboy silhouettes. We’re lucky enough to have video footage of it—in anticipation of the next season of Paris Fashion Week. We’re sharing it here.

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Of course the fashions are the main attraction, but the actual runway is frequently just as artfully constructed. Maisons and designers don’t let their visions end at the dress’s hem; many make universes within which to present their collections, to the delight of the lucky few who get to attend their shows.

A new book put out by Irish lifestyle group Roads captures this fleeting art form. The Fashion Set: The Art of the Fashion Show presents 10 years of the most memorable, outlandish and groundbreaking set designs in the modern history of fashion.

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Fendi Spring/Summer 2008. Photo by Vincent Lappartient, courtesy of Roads Publishing.

In his introduction to the 200-plus-page tome of beautiful photos thoughtfully contextualized, Italian editor Federico Poletti describes the project as an attempt to celebrate the “miniature world that has been carefully planned and constructed, only to suddenly vanish after just twelve spectacular minutes.” The temporality of these performances lends to their special status, as well as the privilege of the audience. Fashion shows are notoriously difficult to access, and this book appeals to our desire for inclusion in the most rarified circles.

Sometimes grand, as in Karl Lagerfeld’s Fendi Spring 2008 show on China’s Great Wall, fashion sets can tap into global historical or artistic influences. Or, as in the case of Henrik Vibskov’s Fall 2015 show titled “The Messy Massage Class,” they may explore, tongue in cheek, smaller social themes like our preoccupation with health services.

Henri Vibskov AW 2015 showHenrik Vibskov Autumn/Winter 2015. Photo by Alastair Philip Wiper, courtesy of Roads Publishing.

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Copenhagen Fashion Week

Danes do street style with a dash of contemporary Nordic cool. Our global trend reporter Kristin Yamada aimed her trusty lens at some of the sleekest looking Scandinavians and visiting fashion folks during Copenhagen Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2017. Here are our favorite shots from her time on the ground in Denmark.

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One thing fashion is not necessarily known for is practicality. Especially during the haute couture displays of Fashion Week, when the sky is the limit for designers’ imaginations and the shoes models sport to walk the runway are equally as elevated, one doesn’t see much emphasis placed on comfortable wearability.

During recent Fashion Weeks, however, one trend that literally hit the streets of New York, London, Paris and Milan was the sneaker. Some of the most stylish women and men in the industry were sporting tennies as they rushed to runway shows. It’s the ways in which they wear them that make these sneaks chic.

Spring 2016 Street Style sneakers

Images by InDigital

Here are some of our favorite styles and street style shots paired with shoes you can shop now.

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Gucci was embellished and maximalist and oh-so-cool.

Our Men’s Fashion Director Jorge Valls goes to Fashion Weeks, scopes designers’ upcoming seasons and confers with our buyers about which pieces we should carry. Do we wish we were him? Usually.

The captions in this post are Jorge’s snap judgments about spring/summer 2017 collections from the recently wrapped Milan Moda Uomo. Stay tuned for his impressions of Mode à Paris, happening now.

CLICK HERE FOR MILAN FASHION WEEK IMAGES AND COMMENTARY

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Bag charm at Fashion Week

Strapped to the side of some of Fashion Week’s most fashionable ladies were assorted oddball accessories. Although their luxe handbags needed no frippery, many chose to outfit them with a little bauble. After all, these are women who don’t miss an opportunity to dress up. And these trinkets aren’t without their charms.

Bag charms have become a popular statement for the fashion set. Spotted on models like Lara Stone and Kendall Jenner, these playful accessories for accessories let wearers add some personality to their purses.

Bag charm at Fashion Week

Many of these bag charms take the shape of furry characters. Fendi has a Pompom Karl, a miniature Karl Lagerfeld doll ensconced in a fluffy tuft. British designer Sophie Hulme‘s quirky bag charms have become collectibles among those into the trend. You’ll find furry, feathered, tasseled and jeweled characters among her menagerie of creations. Burberry has a high-style teddy bear charm. Many designers, like Rebecca Minkoff and Stella McCartney, make tiny versions of their own handbags into charms, as though your purse seems naked without its own purse.

SEE MORE AND SHOP OUR BAG CHARM SLIDESHOW

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Fashion week makeup

Our beauty team hit up a slew of backstage runways at Fashion Week, catching up and grazing shoulders with industry bigwigs the likes of Bobbi Brown, François Nars, stila, butter LONDON and Jin Soon Choiand taking notes on fall’s biggest makeup trends.

What stood out to them as the biggest beauty trends on the spring ’16 runways? For one, individualized contouring and brows, like the ones created at the hands of experts like Shiseido’s Dick Page for Narciso Rodriguez. In seasons past, we’ve seen our share of strong contouring and bold brows, but this year was different. Show after show, artists let the model’s natural features dictate the beauty, focusing on accentuating natural assets, like amping up already god-given bushy brows.

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SEE ALL OUR FAVORITE MAKEUP TRENDS

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Paris shone with subtlety this season as established designers experimented with new silhouettes and a fresh crop of creatives—including Koché and Atlein—introduced their vision for the urban sophisticate. Although there weren’t exactly pyrotechnics on the runway, the City of Light shimmered with the obvious skill and vision of the world-class labels who show there.

Here are some of our highlights.

1. Demna Gvsalia’s first Balenciaga collection sent reverberations through the fashion world. Simultaneously showing that nothing and everything was sacred, Gvsalia played with the storied house’s reputation for angular suiting by creating sloped shouldered and hunchbacked silhouettes, disfiguring classic shapes to inject an irreverent sensibility.

Balenciaga Fall 2016
Images: InDigital

THE COUNTDOWN CONTINUES: READ MORE

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Now that Paris Fashion Week has wrapped up Fashion Month, our final street-style story from the last round of shows highlights all the must-have shoes on the feet of the industry’s most stylish ladies. It’s a thing we like to do. Click on a pair to shop these showstoppers or similar styles right now.

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Photos by Kristin Yamada

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