Phoebe Philo runs a well-oiled fashion house at Céline, continually creating pieces that are beautiful in their simplicity and blend tasteful wearability with innovative silhouettes.
Philo delivered yet again Sunday, giving us a seasonless collection of kick-flare pants, lengthy tunics and leather toppers in soft ivory, beige, black and ochre. Oversized, strong-collared men’s shirts over ultra-wide-leg pants took the once trendy pajama dressing to the streets in a less sleepy-eyed way by working with stiffer fabrics and bigger proportions. Ruched, crinkled and knotted satin frocks were worn over flowing wide-leg trousers, while oblong crystal belts linked like chains were featured on a number of fit-and-flare midis. The label’s beloved bags were tied around waists (like a fanny pack, but so much better) or wrapped around wrists.
What history will remember of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Class of 2015 is they were the ones who broke the rule—the rule that there can only be one winner.
The stars of this year’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award ceremony
On Monday, November 2 at Spring Studios in New York, Anna Wintour and Diane von Furstenberg announced, on behalf of a panel of judges that included Nordstrom fashion director Jeffrey Kalinsky, that due to the extreme nature of “authentic” talent in the mix, there would be not one but three winners in this 12th annual fashion competition.
We were there to catch exclusive commentary from past winner and footwear geniusPaul Andrew and others, and to pass on the inspiring message from Givenchy‘s creative director Riccardo Tisci—the evening’s keynote guest.
Seemingly unfazed about relocating from Paris to New York Fashion Week, Riccardo Tisci marked his decadelong reign at Givenchy Friday by bringing the play on masculine and feminine back to basics.
The show was a spectacle of contrast showcasing ethereal lingerie-inspired laces draped and knotted over fluid tuxedo pants, topped with smoking jackets. Keeping it simple with black and white, Tisci once again showed us the art of taking opera-style eveningwear to the street.
Not one to shy away from theatrics, the designer enlisted performance artist Marina Abramović to collaborate on an emotional pre-show promoting love, spirituality and cross-cultural acceptance—exemplified by religious chants and the designer’s own decision to open the show to 800 members of the public (something to keep in mind for next year).
We’re used to hearing about how designers are caught between seasons; at any given time they’re sketching for one time of year, selecting models to walk a runway for another, and getting sales and marketing reports for a third. But some designers live in between geographic locations as well. For exampleJoseph Altuzarra. The designer was born in Paris, worked with Marc Jacobs and Proenza Schouler in America, and then Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy in France before striking out on his own and settling down—and getting married—in New York City.
Image by Simon Cave, courtesy Joseph Altuzarra
Of course, who could choose just one city or the other—and why would they want to? There’s a time and place for everything, and we had the designer tell us exactly what that means for him. Keep reading for city-specific thoughts on baked goods, the ballet (he studied and performed for many years), perfect looks from his spring collection (but of course!), and more.
Designers in Paris tend to march to their own very distinct beat, and the shows there always deliver a beautifully diverse array of trends. There were, however, certain key looks, items and ideas that emerged over the course of all four of this season’s fashion weeks and reached their apex in the French capital.
Among our Top 10: A mood of romantic, gothic Victorian; a nostalgic ’70s feeling; and a clean-edged retro-future idea that recalls the ’60s but is brought up to date with modern fabrications. Fur and layered texture continue in importance and a tailored coat, sleek bag and fitted boot will all be must-haves come fall. High-shine leather and precious dimensional embellishments in unexpected forms keep the look sleek, modern and feminine. Enjoy!
Lookbooks are one of the best parts of the resort season, which kicked off earlier this month. It’s fun to see the different models and settings the designers choose, like Joan Smalls on a rainy city street for Givenchy or Hanne Gaby Odiele against stark white walls for Theyskens’ Theory. We’ve culled a few of our favorite shots from the new collections below.
Halloween is creeping upon us (just 6 days and counting), which means it’s time to concoct a frighteningly fab costume. Instead of looking to horror flicks for inspiration, let the runway wow you with the most haunting of styles.
From Riccardo Tisci’s gypsy girl to Sarah Burton’s futuristic proportions, to Rick Owens’s elemental mode, fall was full of masked fantasy. Cast an alluring spell this All Hallows’ Eve by creating your own veiled mystique.
Go on an electropop trip behind the scenes of Givenchy’s raver-inspired fall ad campaign—shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, and featuring dance moves by Stella Tennant, Stef van der Laan, Daniela Braga, Simone Nobili, Jarrod Scott and Rodrigo Braga.
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