Mugler’s David Koma focused on transitions Saturday in Paris, combining moody and wintery tones with a sunset backdrop and a sandy ochre catwalk for a trans-seasonal collection.
Koma balanced contrast, opening the show with tough-girl leathers crafted into corseted gladiator skirts and minidresses, with the heavy use of embossed patent croc as texture on otherwise simple designs—think oversized statement lapels on a boxy jacket, a waist-cinching bodice on an LBD or cut into panels and layered on top of red jersey skirts and off-the-shoulder minidresses. And just like that, the leathers were replaced by satin ivory frocks with asymmetrical hemlines, sporty angular cutouts and color blocking to balance out the hardness.
Guillaume Henry’s moody and futuristic spring brought a new edge to every French femme’s favorite fashion house, with touches of goth and an overhaul of gloss to add to the distinctly ’90s undertone at Nina Ricci.
Lacquer covered almost everything at the Nina Ricci spring show, from vampy lips that matched the glossy oxblood runway to the majority of the leather looks. Feminine takes on masculine cuts like stiffly structured jackets, silk palazzo pants with cargo touches and over-the-hand sleeves hit the dimly lit runway. More typically girly pieces were mini dresses with poufs of ostrich feathers and micro-pleated shifts that stood out as the collection’s most understandable elements. Coat dresses made an appearance, their mannish silhouettes broken up with deep V necklines, while simple silk blouses were accented with sheer apron-inspired overlays.
Shop: current season Nina Ricci
READ MORE >
We’re counting down the crucial pre-Christmas shopping days with a series called Gifted Givers, in which friends old and new share their thoughts on stylishly spirited giving and receiving.
Remember when people used to say that print was dead? These days it seems that analog, words-on-page devices are more alive than ever, and Gather Journal is a terrifically designed and wonderfully written example. With a focus on food and the culture of those who grow, make, and (sure) eat it, it’s a magazine that works like a book and feels like a slice of the very best life. We talked to Brooklyn-based editor and cofounder Fiorella Valdesolo about her holiday hit list.
READ MORE >
Our Director of Creative Projects and Pop-In Shop Curator Olivia Kim offers up her OK’d by O.K. product picks, inspiration and things she’s super in love with right now.
Junya Watanabe Patchwork Sweater
“A perfect pairing for a casual jean/shoe day. Junya does mixed material so well; my fav skirt, for example.”
Highlights from yesterday’s shows, including art-meets-fashion at Junya Watanabe, the new It shoes from Acne and Jean Paul Gaultier’s ready-to-wear dénouement.
There’s never a dull moment at a Junya Watanabe show. His cubist-inspired runway collection for spring may seem a little wacky at first glance, but if you look beyond the fantastical styling pieces, you’ll find cute striped tops, pleated skirts and other closet pleasers.
READ MORE >
Our Director of Creative Projects and Pop-In Shop curator Olivia Kim offers up daily inspiration, favorite products and things she’s super in love with right now.
Junya Watanabe Melton Wool Blend Midi Skirt
“I can never have too many black skirts—just keep adding layers and textures, and I’m in!”
Our creative director Strath Shepard took these snapshots with a Holga camera on set at the Salmagundi Art Club in Greenwich Village, NYC. Check out the full video and lookbook online now.
Nadja Bender in Saint Laurent
Angelo Pennetta shooting 16mm film
Nadja in Lanvin
Nadja in Junya Watanabe
Legendary fashion journalist Lynn Yaeger, neighbor of the Salmagundi
Nadja lounging in Valentino (those boots!)
The shoot took place during a semi-heatwave, but this shot somehow makes us look forward to fall.
Get a jump on the season with our Fall 2014 Designer Collections lookbook here.
If you’ve ever thought black is boring, then you should check out these images from the Junya Watanabe fall 2014 show at Paris Fashion Week. The venerable Japanese designer (and notable name in avant-garde fashion) presented a show befitting his incredible rep, with look after look of texturally contrasting, meticulously constructed, thought-provoking pieces. Color would have only been a distraction.
See all of our Fashion Week blog posts and check out our Fashion Week Hub.
Karen looks so effortlessly cool, it hurts! There’s something incredibly classic and insouciant about her style. The men’s oxford shirt, the rock ’n’ roll leather, the cropped jeans with pointed pumps: it’s a mix of James Dean and Audrey Hepburn that I just love!
You can bet that I will be copying this look head to toe, as soon as I find the perfect black heel.
Shop similar styles:
Leather Moto Jackets | Cropped Jeans | Classic Black Pumps
Shop our Editors’ Picks to re-create this look:
Current/Elliott ‘The Soho’ Jacket | Junya Watanbe Jeans | Saint Laurent Pointy Toe Pump
Primal. Punk. American Indian. Transfusion.
For his spring/summer ’14 show, Junya Watanabe chose the Grande Galerie de l’Évolution – a fitting location for a designer known for his fascination with the aesthetics of the human body. This natural history museum in the 5th arrondissement of Paris displays and examines the transformation of the human form and thousands of other species since the first origins of life.
Watch a decorative metamorphosis materialize on the runway, as the Japanese designer guides us on an expedition where Native American fringe is excavated and transformed in the world of Watanabe.
“We’ve seen fringe as a trend throughout the season, but of course Junya has his own special take on it,” says Jennifer Wheeler, our VP of women’s designer apparel.
Attention-grabbing looks give way to wearability in the form of draped jersey dresses, trench coats, patchwork denim and leather motorcycle jackets.
Exiting the riveting show: Vogue fashion director Tonne Goodman and CR Fashion Book creator Carine Roitfeld, exchanging their thoughts.
Leave your own modernized footprint on fashion.
Shop our Editor’s Picks from the current Junya Watanabe collection.
Junya Watanabe Faux Leather Jacket | Junya Watanabe Houndstooth Back Boyfriend Jeans | Junya Watanabe Double Breasted Wool Trench Coat
Photos by Ford Leland