Kenzo

KENZO always puts on a show, but on Tuesday night at the Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, they went full-on Studio 54 with it. In an homage to founder Kenzo Takada’s 1977 show at the iconic New York City nightclub—and inspired by and inclusive of the work of fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez—creative directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon offered oversized patterned paillettes, military denim, exaggerated old-school jogging suits, plenty of digital prints and some shimmy-shimmy shake dresses.

Oh, and larger-than-life earrings and spring-loaded stilettos.

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All images by Jessa Carter

And as much as the back-to-back shows—one for buyers, another one for press—were full-on performances, the backstage moments were full of theater and antics as well. Here are 17 of our favorite scenes; keep an eye out for Robert Palmer-girl moodsfashion’s favorite Gurl Talker and palm tree camo.

CLICK IN TO SEE THE SHOW BEFORE THE SHOW

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Usually one to put on a show, Karl Lagerfeld has moved on from his CHANEL airports, supermarkets and street cafés to a refreshingly subdued runway with simple white carpet and gold seatingc’est tout–at the Grand Palais.

A look from Chanel at Paris Fashion Week Fall 2016

Images: InDigital

For fall, the legendary designer reworked the brand’s classics. Multimedia boater hats, exaggerated pearl necklaces and camellia motifs–that ranged from large prints to heavily appliquéd cuffs–combined retro and trendy. The iconic CHANEL tweeds were saturated in neon berry hues, sometimes worked in with denim, and always paired with matching riding boots and caps. Standout pieces with sure street-style futures include the charming and ethereal, tiered ivory lace frocks in every length and the oversized pearl necklaces that accessorized the majority of looks.

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Since 2011 the house of Kenzo has been under the creative direction of Opening Ceremony co-founders Carol Lim and Humberto Leon. When we last talked to them—at last season’s show—the topic (and the collection’s theme) was tribes, a holdover from the original Kenzo, Mr. Takada. Fictional clans and global, self-sufficient kinfolk are a common resting place; as Leon told me, they’re part of the brand’s DNA.

Next spring’s family of women is a nomadic one. Early Sunday morning out in the 19th arrondissement of Paris, Leon explained that these women are all about their journey and the souvenirs they pick up along the way.

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And how better to see a friend’s travel keepsakes than up close? Find out where this trip takes the imaginary wanderers (hint, they need swimsuits—really good swimsuits), and get close-ups of the textures, patterns and silhouettes they’re bringing back home.

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Paris played with varied dreamscapes this past weekend. Sarah Burton brought to life a fantastical, decaying fairytale, decked in shredded silk and lace with disheveled flowers and ruffles for Alexander McQueen. On the other end of the spectrum, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon envisioned the modern jet-setter’s real life aspirations of looking fresh on the fly for KENZO’s color-filled collection. Akris collaborated with Japanese architect Sou Fujimoto. Céline made fresh tracks Sunday with a collection that went from lingerie slips to English fox hunt—all in a structurally experimental way, of course.

Paris Fashion Week Spring 2016, Alexander McQueen

Images: InDigital 

The flushed goddesses of Burton’s runway, while delicately beautiful, were grounded in personal history. Alexander McQueen traced his heritage back to Huguenot refugees fleeing religious persecution in the 18th century, bringing their covetable silk-weaving craft with them. Exquisite floral jacquards, French lace flowers and figure-tracing ruffles appeared again and again. An embroidered leather jacket in blush with a ruffled neckline was especially striking atop a lace column Victorianesque gown. Occasional modern, tailored pieces kept the collection anchored. But thanks to Burton’s softer approach this season, even the more extravagant gowns— with feathery mermaid skirts or spiraling tiers of lace—leaned toward measured romance.

Shop: current season Alexander McQueen

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This month we celebrate British heritage as Pop-In@Nordstrom welcomes Liberty London. To kick things off, here’s a look inside the brand.

Ed Burstell, managing director of Liberty London; image via the Liberty blog

When I asked Ed Burstell how he described Liberty London back in 2008, when he left the American fashion industry to work for what is perhaps the most British of all British department stores, he said he told people, “It was one of the last great emporiums of its kind left on Earth.” When I asked Burstell how he describes it now, after seven years as the shop’s managing director, his Brit-sharpened wit and American confidence cuts right through.

“I say it is one of the last great emporiums of its kind left on Earth.”

For the launch of this month’s Liberty London Pop-In, Burstell defined the historical context of Liberty’s grand marketplace status, and he outlined what he calls his “subversive” polish on this British institution.

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Highlights and commentary from yesterday’s runway shows: Chloé rocks a bewitching uptown-gypsy vibe; Kenzo wraps mod military layers around fluid designs that nod to the label’s Japanese DNA.

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Chloé

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Fashion Week Journal for Sunday, March 8

If you’re the sort who’s in it for the details, runway shows can actually be a little bit frustrating. Even from Kim and Kanye’s seats, you just can’t always see the tiny embellishments and the careful tucks and seams—let alone the accessories or the nails. At Kenzo, details have a way of being not just downright museum-quality but also streetwise and cool, so I was pretty psyched to learn that I had backstage access before their show. All the better to see the nuances at close range, and to see how the story of those details comes together.

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Turns out there really is a nuanced tale behind Kenzo’s fall 2015 collection. Keep reading to get the scoop, and to find out how eventually the entire Paris Event Center got to see it up close and personally.

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Annie is one of my favorite personalities at Fashion Week and beyond. As an editor at Refinery 29, Annie is not only incredibly stylish, but has a great sense of humor, too. I dig this biker-babe-in-the-city look, with her cropped moto and premium black and white accessories. I am always drawn to the color red and this belted dress is pure perfection. A few subtle pieces of jewelry and a bold red lip, and you’re ready for Fashion Week.

xo,
Crystal Nicodemus

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Shop similar styles:

Cropped Moto Jackets | Drop-Waist Flare Dresses | Black and White High Heel Platform Sandals

Shop our Editors’ Picks to re-create this look:


Burberry Brit Jacket | 1.State Drop Waist Dress | Topshop Sandal

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Garance Doré is back with her signature style. Garance pulls off casual chic so effortlessly. As you all know, pink is the top color of the season, and this ribbed pullover has a gorgeous hue. The slit details make this jumper a perfect layering piece, and Garance handles the denim on denim trend with understated French flair. Minimal accessories and sleek stilettos keep this look simple and classically cool.

xo,
Crystal Nicodemus

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Shop similar styles:
Pink Crewneck Sweaters | Chambray Shirts | Light Blue Skinny Jeans

Shop our Editors’ Picks to re-create this look:

Halogen Sweater | Foxcroft Shirt | 7 For All Mankind Jeans

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Paris Fashion Week: September 28

Highlights from yesterday’s shows, including sleek elegance at Akris, sporty futurism at KENZO and bobo-inflected accessories at Chloé.

Akris Spring 2015

At Akris, creative director Albert Kriemler showed a collection of precisely cut, monochromatic looks, many with textural, graphic motifs inspired by Russian artist Kazimir Malevich’s Suprematist works.

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