Both Rick Owens’s and Ann Demeulemeester’s runway feats gave ample reason for pause yesterday. Owens’s show marched women wearing other women in the basement of the Palais de Tokyo. For Demeulemeester, art director Sébastien Meunier utilized choker-topped leather harnesses to push his languid looks in a sadomasochistic direction. Alber Elbaz of Lanvin played with the ever-rich topic of sexuality and androgyny. Yet, in spite of body politics, each collection offered a surprisingly accessible selection of wardrobe staples.
In every collection, Owens distorts silhouettes and by extension physical form. In this spring 2016 lineup, a lens of female resilience governed that distortion. Gymnasts, interspersed with models, carried the physical weight of another body—much like the weight women bear as nurturers, in Owens’s mind. The clothing itself maintained his signature sculptural quality, like beautifully shaped folds transforming short dresses or a supple mix of organza, canvas and leather tinged with metallics. Short architectural dresses aside, other key winners included tonal bombers, sleeveless dusters and crinkled anoraks.
Shop: current season Rick Owens