Highlights from yesterday’s shows: four distinctly different takes on retro styling from Carven, Nina Ricci, Lanvin and Rick Owens.
The swingin’ ’60s designs at Carven were inspired by speed, from racing graphics to road stripes, and the results are deliciously wearable. Figure-flattering A-line shifts and boxy car coats race into the new century fueled by python details and Japanese-inspired prints that play to our decade’s obsession with fun mashups.
A mod meditation on Speed Racer—with a luxe, 21st-century twist.
The romance of the 1940s is alive and well at Nina Ricci. A parade of pretty shift dresses, elegant jackets and beautifully draped separates evoke the freshness of springtime and the optimism of new beginnings. Shell pinks, egg yolk yellows, baby blues and earthy browns highlight tactile, touchable fabrics that will feel like an absolute dream against the skin.
The theme at Nina Ricci this season? Perfectly pretty, romantically retro.
With this collection, Alber Elbaz celebrates the women he loves. Simple silhouettes and forgiving fabrics are elegantly draped, then brought to the next level with dramatic accessories like python belts and sculptural statement necklaces. The jacket is an important piece this season, with boxy, bold shoulders and rich details.
Lanvin celebrates women by offering simple silhouettes with rich, intricate detailing.
Inspired by Bauhaus architecture and the Ballets Russes, Rick Owens presents one of his loveliest collections to date. Flights of tulle escape from the sides of strict shift silhouettes, like ballerinas sneaking out of a Walter Gropius girls’ school. Textures are ethereal with charmingly uneven or unfinished hemlines, and counterbalanced by an earthy, restrained palette.
Rick Owens riffs on the question, “What if the brutalist movement went to the ballet?”
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–Amy Leigh Morgan