“A lot of times what I feel when I’m here watching the shows is that I’m so honored to be in the company of these women—women like Simone, Molly, Ashley,” says Olivia, after we duck into a Mexican restaurant out in the East End. It’s the last day of London Fashion Week, and we’re between appointments, so now’s the time to take stock.
Olivia Kim with buyer Raul Becerra at lunch.
Each season, in every city, there are one or two collections—and a few key pieces and a few key moments—that stand out among the rest. Here are Olivia and Raul’s favorites from London.
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The SPACE team‘s fashion week spreadsheet had five new names on it this season: Eric Schlösberg, Eckhaus Latta, Dilara Findikoglu, A.W.A.K.E, and Vejas. Together, they represent our new shop-in-shop, SPACE LAB.
Details from Dilara Findikoglu’s London Fashion Week presentation.
Debuting today in Seattle, Chicago, Los Angeles, Vancouver, Toronto and online, SPACE LAB is a fashion incubator; it’s a way for Olivia and her team to pay special attention to brands that are operating just a little bit outside the lines, and also just breaking their stride. It’s a way to nurture them and stand by them as their careers make important pivots.
And we do mean stand by them: Even though SPACE LAB is set up to stock and mentor five designers at a time for just one season starting this spring, we met with designers during New York and London Fashion Weeks (we’ll catch up with Vejas in Paris in about a week) to see what they’re presenting for next fall.
MEET THE DESIGNERS AND SEE WHAT THEY’RE SHOWING
Every season Ashley Williams sends out a small poster in lieu of a more typical show invite, and every season it has something to do with being in a slightly sour state of mind. The poster we unwrapped upon arriving for the first show of London Fashion Week, however, went to new heights—or would that be new lows? In Ashley’s world, they’re sort of the same. The poster said “Genuine Misery”; the image was a teeth-baring guard dog.
“My business partner and I, we have this thing, ‘Optimistic emo,'” the designer told me backstage. It’s like an unofficial rule that keeps them in line, she explained; they can be real about their bad moods, but they have to be good-natured about them, too. And while misery is definitely next season’s key word—emblazoned as it is on a killer sweatsuit or two—it’s evened out by a British cowgirl thing and a backstory about sneaking out of parties to go sit by yourself in the woods.
You’ll see it in our slideshow: together those elements—on an urban/outdoor runway—make misery look like good company.
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Where does a girl in ruffles, gingham and tulle go? Anywhere she wants to, of course.
Molly Goddard spring 2017; this collection will be online and in stores very soon.
Image by Portia Hunt.
SPACE designer Molly Goddard is one of the biggest names in London right now—in no small part because she’s helped define a look that’s part party girl, part everyday sport-romance, and part remembered fever dream from your very first ballet class. But the bottom line is that you can take anything from her spring collection, add sneakers and a T-shirt, and you’re good for a night of soccer matches, sushi rolls or late-night club tunes.
If you ever wanted to try any of the above in the designer’s hometown, now you can. Just let Molly and her boyfriend/business partner, Tom Shickle, tell you where to go.
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Our own Laura Cassidy—who publishes here on The Thread and also over at SPACE—is a Fashion Week warrior. She goes twice yearly to New York and then European Fashion Weeks, hitting one city after another (after another), scoping styles and writing furiously.
We admire her poise and how she consistently dresses as well as she writes. We don’t know how she does it. So we asked!
The Thread: Do you plan your Fashion Week outfits? If so, how do you go about it?
Laura Cassidy: To a degree, yes. Certainly I think about the weather. My favorite way to wear a spring dress while it’s still winter: pull some pants on under it, and a sweater over the top of it. Easy. And I really feel like sneakers are the way to go for the February through March run of shows. The weather is just too terrible, and the pace is so crazy—and Nike’s fabrics and colors make it so easy to treat your trainers like oxfords or ankle boots. Sunglasses are key, too, for New York’s cold-sunshine winter and just in general for “disappearing.” These oversized Gentle Monsters are going to allow me to feel alone from time to time, and that’s just really necessary inside the crowds and chaos of the month.
I always bring a furry clutch, because … lap blanket. And I’m never fully dressed without a statement earring. Simone Rocha’s accessories have been so wonderfully timeless and magically toned lately.
SHOP: ACNE Studios sweater | ACNE Studios dress | ACNE Studios pants | Gucci beanie* | Shrimps bag | Nordstrom x Nike sneakers* | Simone Rocha earrings | Gentle Monster sunglasses | BABE bath salts* | Tumi carry-on
*available in stores only; inquire at 1.888.282.6060
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Rachel Comey broke with tradition this season and showed her fall 2017 collection in LA last week instead of in New York, but we caught up with Nordstrom buyer Joyce Lin on Monday morning as she visited the brand’s downtown showroom to choose which pieces we’ll be offering in our stores this fall.
Shown here: a topper made in the very same wool, by the same very mill,
as the coat Audrey Hepburn wore in Breakfast at Tiffany’s.
In a happy stroke of luck, Rachel was there and we had the chance to chat with her about her inspiration, the collection’s fabrics and textile, and her pretty much legendary sense of color.
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It’s hard to get Daniel Corrigan and Chelsea Hansford, the creative heads behind the luxurious, wearable lifestyle brand Simon Miller, to say much about their friendship and how they balance or juggle their his-and-hers points of view for collections that are made for both men and women. What they will tell you, however, is that each of them has a four-legged best friend, and each will report that these four-legged friends run their lives.
When you and your friend/design partner both really, really love your dogs, you include them in your fall 2017 collection.
Ollie and Marcell, a Shar-Pei mutt and a Valley Bulldog respectively, are so much in charge of their Simon Miller humans that a number of this season’s styles are based on fabric printed with a found vintage stamp that just happens to bear a striking resemblance to both canines. Daniel and Chelsea showed us the pieces, and more, when we stopped by the studio where they were camping out before their Saturday-evening show.
GO WHERE WE GO, SEE WHAT WE SEE
Cathy Horyn is the single most important fashion journalist in America. Maybe the world. She takes clothes and the runway seriously. She’s a critic—and a fan. An anthropologist and a sharpshooter. A consummate analyst. When you see her courtside, she isn’t snapping pics for Instagram; she’s taking notes with pen on paper.
And when you see her inside the St. Regis hotel before the Jason Wu show, it’s cool to feel as though you can approach her. We did—not just because she’s this writer’s hero, but because the cap she was wearing goes hand in hand with a Fashion Week series we’re doing on Snapchat called Fashion Friends. It’s there, above: “YOU HAVE FRIENDS IN NEW YORK.”
And you sure do. And we’re talking to them about who their friends are—whom they go to shows with, whom they look forward to seeing, what they love about each other’s style.
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If you had landed in the middle of Fashion Week yesterday as the whole thing was kicking off, and if you had asked anyone what show they were really looking forward to, there’s every chance they would have told you: Raf Simons’s Calvin Klein debut.
All images by Indigital Images
The Belgium-born former Dior designer’s stateside arrival is one of the most anticipated fashion developments of recent memory. We were all waiting to see what such a sensitive, thoughtful and visionary European creative director would do at the head of the storied and iconic American brand—just as nostalgia and hunger for the CK golden years hover at a fever pitch.
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All the world loves a shoulder right now. From Burberry’s Gerber print to Vetements’ cutout hoodie, we can’t get enough little peeks and seductively dropped necklines, and there’s no sign that the trend is slowing down.
All images by Indigital Images
And so far at least, Jason Wu‘s got a lock on the genre for fall. In a collection full of sumptuously modern and ever-so-elegantly askew silhouettes for daytime and night, the knits, silks and burnout velvets with their partially baring tops stole the show.
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