London Fashion Week

London Fashion Week Fall 2016 helped to mint a new generation of designers while reasserting the influence and ingenuity of established British brands. Burberry injected grunge notes and pixie dust into a punky fall collection, while Vivienne Westwood, the punk doyenne herself, showcased ladylike suits and dresses on models with smudged lipstick. Relative newcomers like Ashley Williams and Faustine Steinmetz exhibited the casual cool of the new guard.

All in all, it was a colorful week, on and off the runway, with plenty of lavish fashion indicative of Britain’s illustrious sartorial history. Here’s why:

  1. Shrimps designer Hannah Weiland was again a hit on and off the runway with her faux-fur jackets inspired by her 91-year-old grandmother, who was a story herself this season.
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We’re into TOGA designer Yasuko Furuta’s methodology: Chaos. It works for today, for the post-modern cut-and-paste life. If that describes the way you’re living, listen up. Furuta’s plans for Fall 2016 include some key pieces you couldn’t possibly have yet, because until right before the Tokyo-based designer’s Tuesday runway show, they hadn’t been invented.

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LFW3quadGimlet-eyed Kristin Yamada is busy snapping street-style starlets during Fashion Week. Here are her photos to inspire you for next season (or this one), and some wardrobe picks to help you get the look.

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Three things contribute to the power of Roksanda Ilincic: color, structure and quiet, feminine strength. The Serbian-born designer uses beautifully offbeat shades and pairs them in even more musical and surprising ways. Her pieces are built in exceptional proportions with exaggerated lengths and details. And her dresses, coats, suits and sets exude an Old-World refinement and steely polish. It’s difficult if not impossible to imagine her straying from these touch points (say, with an all-black collection), but it’s always interesting to see how she develops them.

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For fall 2016, Roksanda washed runway walls in foggy blue and decorated them with vaguely Cubist astral illustrations, perhaps in reference to past collections. Although the velvet capes, long satin silhouettes and rich colors—magenta, pale pink, teal, burnt orange—aren’t inherently moody, there was something about the way they felt inside the set that rendered all of it rather introspective.

And then we found out she had been studying ’70s art and fashion photographer Deborah Turbeville.

FIND OUT HOW THE INSPIRATION PLAYED OUT

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It’s hard to imagine the brand that doesn’t intend to dress real girls—after all, it’d be difficult to stay in business dressing imaginary ones—but London favorites, LVMH champs and SPACE mainstays Marques’Almeida have really committed to the cause of the actual, factual woman. The design duo is all about creating a street-to-club, studio-to-hangout wardrobe for the childhood sidekick, the work mate, the bookworm, the friend who’s been away too long at college, and to show it they took a fresh approach to casting—and to storytelling.

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In the weeks leading up to M’A’s Tuesday runway presentation, their Instagram feed metered out images and cute, sweet micro-tales about the girls who’d be walking in the show, quietly asserting that real people with interesting, engaged lives want, need, live and breathe in the extra-long asymmetrical handkerchief-hem skirts, giantly puffy winter coats and yes, reimagined denim that we’d all soon see on the runway.

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London Scene Snaps, Part Three

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Candid snaps of the street-style scene at Fashion Week fall ’16, from our Global Trend Reporter Kristin Yamada

THE SLIDESHOW IS JUST A CLICK AWAY

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Distancing themselves from the digital microprints that were once their bread and butter, Peter Pilotto‘s designers offered a collection of winter wears as practical as they were opulent.Peter_Pilotto_166_fw16Looking to nature and the northern landscape as inspiration for their tactile fall showcase, Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos added colors and textures evocative of icy winter scenery. Majestic sweeping hemlines, fluid silks, luxe furs and lace added a soft, Nordic feel with abstract swirling chenille embroidery and delicate knitwear offering substance. Large pinstripe pantsuits were more lackluster, but tiered ruffles on Lurex lace two-pieces joined rippling metallic frocks to close out the show with a bang.

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LFW2quadGimlet-eyed Kristin Yamada is busy snapping street-style starlets during Fashion Week. Here are her photos to inspire you for next season (or this one), and some wardrobe picks to help you get the look.L1187_MargaretZhang

Margaret Zhang (Shine By Three) is just too cool. Graphic logos have been popular at Fashion Week and this Vetements tee is a prime example. It brings so much energy to her look through sporty design and color. Also a trending theme: ruffles, which lend a nice femme contrast to the sport vibe. Margaret has incorporated this detail on her cropped pant. A pointed-toe heel and lace choker further the femininity. The perfect long coat is all that is left to tie this ensemble together. Thanks for the inspiration, Margaret!


Shop similar styles:
camel coats | flare trousers | graphic tees

Shop our editors’ picks to re-create this look:

Rachel Comey Trail corduroy coat | Isa Arfen slim flounce pants | Vetements DHL long tee

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The senses are so intricately tied together; sounds conjure memories of our favorite cities, taste stirs images of the best holiday gatherings, and scents sometimes call up the most emotional, meaningful remembrances of all. This seems to be something Canadian-born Erdem Moralioglu is captivated by, because his Monday runway presentation was a full sensory exerpience.

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In an attic-like space in Central London, the lightest hint of cedar wafted around the room. It was something you were aware of immediately, but couldn’t quite place straight away—possibly because you were distracted by all the Old Hollywood-esque vintage and antic furnishings and gorgeous lighting filling the room. But then when the woody essence settled in and fully presented itself to you, it did so with a full narrative: A wooden chest, lined with velvet, filled with the most precious and beautiful things and tucked away for safe keeping.

Only here, for fall, Erdem opened it.

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Everyone and anyone in fashion right now will tell you that in terms of designers in their ascendancy, Simone Rocha is the one to know. Although, as we’ve written before, she actually does come from a venerated fashion family, spiritually and metaphorically it would seem that she’s the daughter of two of the industry’s most legendary women: Coco Chanel and Rei Kawakubo. The tweeds, the knits, the undone finishing, the pearls, the proportions, the elegance, the rebellion. The elegance.

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All runway images courtesy Simone Rocha

Her runway show last Saturday night was true poetry: an exploration of keeping it all together, and allowing it to sometimes fall apart. As Simone shared with us in this exclusive feature interview, maternity is a key theme in all her work, but now that the 29-year-old is a mother herself, that reference is all the more personal.

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Our relationship with the house of Simone Rocha is an intimate one as well. Two days after the show, Nordstrom Vice President of Creative Projects Olivia Kim, along with her buying team, visited the brand’s North London showroom to begin selecting the looks that will hallmark our fall season. This photo journal takes you along—behind the scenes, up-close and very personal.

SEE THE IMAGES AND FIND OUT HOW IT ALL COMES TOGETHER

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