London Fashion Week

If you were Refinery29 Fashion Director Paula Goldstein, you would’ve packed light for what really ought to be called Fashion Month.

“I don’t really bring any dresses at all, because I tend get those loaned to me,” Goldstein told me over a girls’ burger lunch at Café Charlot in Paris. When you’ve got a killer look, a cool attitude and nearly 10 years of fashion industry cred, including stops at Purple and Dazed magazines, everyone wants to outfit you in their collections—and put you in their front row, and have you at their after-party.

annie_georgia_greenberg_paula_goldstein_caroline_issaRefinery29’s Paula Goldstein (left), with Nordstrom Signature collaborator Caroline Issa
and Refinery29 editor Annie Georgia Greenberg

 

But if you were this Brit-born, New York–based icon in the making, you wouldn’t seem at all affected by that.

You’d have that woke-up-like-this low-key style vibe on lock, and you’d only drop boldface names when boldface questions are asked of you. You’d be crazy easy to hang out with, and you’d make Fashion Week seem like summer camp. And these would be your favorite shows:

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One more post from London before we’re fully in the EU for the remainder …

I’m someone who believes pretty darn firmly in the sanctity of a proper dose of caffeine taken in an unrushed, thoughtful manner. So when I walked into Fabrique in Shoreditch on the afternoon immediately following Marques’Almeida’s monumental spring ’16 showcase, I felt like maybe I should extend my congratulations and thanks to the baristas and bakers who work there.

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When I asked the Marques’Almeida team for their London List, the note next to this Swedish stone-oven bakery read, “the best bread; we usually pick up our breakfast sandwiches and coffee here.” Meaning, this is how Marta and Paulo and company start their day. Meaning, this is how they generate the brain power to drape denim and shape brocade.

Meaning—I believe—the traditional dark grains and Swedish-roasted coffee beans are in some small way responsible for the shift in modern ready-to-wear. I mean, right? Take a look at these images and tell me that you don’t think this is an exceptionally beautiful and grounding way to start each day’s creative process. And that you don’t want to thank these women, too.

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Fashion Week crossover warning: The shows are in Milan now,
but we have a few more things we want to share with you from London.

One of the signs of a great partnership is when one half of a duo has a lot to say about the other half. While out in East London visiting with Aries co-founder and co-designer Sofia Prantera, she brought up Fergus Purcell, her other creative half, quite often. And while she could have dropped any number of names alongside his (he worked with Marc Jacobs, Supreme and Alexander McQueen, for instance), the one we talked about was London’s legendary Palace Skateboards.

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Skate culture is central to the Aries story. Prantera and Purcell came of age in the time of raves and ramps, and after graduating from London’s prestigious Central Saint Martins in the ’90s, they worked together at Slam City Skates, the board brand that made it possible for Palace to come along later.

SPACE designer Ashley Williams also mentioned Palace Skateboards when she gave us her London List, so the Soho shop was already in my to-do notes, but when I took a recent spin through before leaving town, I looked at it all with a very Aries-centric lens.

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Gimlet-eyed Crystal Nicodemus is busy snapping street-style starlets during Fashion Week. Here are her photos to inspire you for next season (or this one), and some wardrobe picks to help you get the look.

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Tamara Kalinic (Glam and Glitter) is often featured during our Fashion Week coverage thanks to her trendy take on style. London is the perfect town to mix in transitional fall pieces with summer styles. The miniskirt is a popular, mod-inspired length and pairs well with thigh-high boots (if you haven’t tried this footwear trend yet, go for it!). A chunky knit balances out the look with a more casual, autumnal vibe. Love the pop of neon in her purse too!

Shop similar styles:
chunky sweaters | miniskirts | thigh-high boots

Shop our Editors’ Picks to re-create this look:

Frame Denim sweater | McQ by Alexander McQueen skirt | Stuart Weitzman thigh-high boot

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Across the pond, spring ’16 tugs at the heart with many lust-worthy collections. A soft, romantic mood prevails in fluid, falling-off-the-shoulder dresses, louche slip dresses and blouses soft as a sigh—often cut in asymmetric and askew lines. A modern prettiness cascades with ruffles, seduces with cutouts, layers lightly in long and languid ease—the newest deconstruction. The avant-garde offers a new soft take on futurism in retro galactic looks, featuring orbital lines and technical embellishments. While a 21st-century Gypset migrates across infinite borders in a collage of cultural influences.

All in all, a strong showing of eccentric, artistic, beautifully wearable clothing choices.

1. New RomanticLondon Fashion Week Spring 2016, Erdem

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This season the ubiquitous garment of the spring 2016 fashion week season is absolutely positively the frayed-edge denim shirt from SPACE designers Marques’Almeida. Everyone has one on. I would link to it, but we’ve sold through ours. Instead, I’ll link to the still-in-stock pink Marques’Almeida frayed denim dress that is often worn as a shirt, because plenty of fashion week people are wearing that, too.

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This award-winning duo is totally having a moment, and when we got inside the raw warehouse space out in Islington, we found out what the next moment is going to be about.

The words on a printed one-sheets waiting for us on our chairs revealed the initial musical inspiration behind the collection (hint: a piano, an album title that was a poem, and almost always a spaghetti-strap slip dress) and related a shared urge between co-designers Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida to stay connected to their roots.

What would you do if you felt compelled to ground yourself to home but you were, at the same time, totally committed to moving forward? You might call on your friends. Here’s what happened when they did that, and what happened on the runway after that.

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Gimlet-eyed Crystal Nicodemus is busy snapping street-style starlets during Fashion Week. Here are her photos to inspire you for next season (or this one), and some wardrobe picks to help you get the look.

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Rebecca was enjoying the mayhem of the Burberry show in Kensington Gardens when I stole her for a quick snap. It’s no question that denim is one of the biggest themes of the year, with flares coming in on top. Sleeves are getting special treatment this season too, from bells to knots to full cuts. A maxi vest-cut duster and fringed clutch add even more trendy details to this casual look.

Shop similar styles:
bell-sleeve blouses | flare jeans | fringe handbags

Shop our Editors’ Picks to re-create this look:

Celebrity Pink distressed flare jeans | Rachel Zoe bell-sleeve blouse | Elizabeth and James leather foldover clutch

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Ciao Milano! Fashion Week steps into Italy today, but we’ll be posting a few more London stories before we’ve got both feet in the land of Moschino, Cavalli, Marni and more.

When jewelry designer Tiffany Phillips of the SPACE brand URiBE told us that her husband, co-designer Sion Phillips, got her engagement ring at Gray’s Antique Center in Mayfair (near the Bond Street Station in London), it went to the top of our list of London’s not-to-miss. The only thing better would be seeing the ring itself and hearing about how this super-talented and ultra-modern duo chose to mark their union with a piece of history.

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As close as we got to URiBE’s flower market recommendations.

But we never made it there. Fashion week schedules are hard to explain; they can really only be experienced. Suffice it to say there are plenty of places we didn’t visit during this brief jaunt. But next time you’re in London, make sure you hit a few of the spots that the Phillipses were so kind to share with us.

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Actually, it isn’t so much that the young, critically acclaimed designer is in a bad mood, but more that she’s in a different mood. SPACE designer Ashley Williams is known for her offbeat cartoony pop, but as she approached spring 2016 she realized she didn’t want to be permanently assigned to that particular brand of street-smart streetwear.

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So, she sent out poster-sized invitations announcing a bad mood (you can see it in the full post) and at showtime, she sent out a crew of bad girls clad in red and black. Bad taste, good taste, bad behavior, good intentions, bad memories, good style: All of these things and more were woven into tee shirts and sweatshirts, studded with crystals, striped pink, and writ on slinky dresses and shapeless dresses, bathing suits, and baggy trousers in the form of anthropoids, abstract graphics and angsty statements.

We visited her at a pop-up immediately after the show and chatted it through, and not to worry: It’s a good bad mood. You’ll see.

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The Nordstrom Fashion Office identifies the biggest trends on the spring ’16 runways, with links to shop them now in our stores and online.

London Fashion Week Spring 2016, Roksanda, Christopher Kane, Mary Katrantzou

Photos: InDigital

London Fashion Week got off to a flying start with a new take on futurism. Retro galactic looks showcased new silhouettes, style lines and technical embellishments.

Shop this trend:

new york fashion weeknew york fashion weeknew york fashion week

Save: Steve Madden stippled frame sunglasses | Spend: Topshop Twinkle sequin miniskirt | Splurge: Christian Louboutin Sweet Charity spiked calfskin shoulder bag

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