Milan Fashion Week Fall 2015

Last Look: Gucci and No. 21

Beauty for beauty’s sake is redrawing the fashion atlas at Milan Fashion Week. Gucci, in the words of designer Alessandro Michele, transformed clothes “into psycho-geographic maps capable of recording the urban unconscious” in a riotous visual display of glitter, imagery and breathtaking craft. Meanwhile, Alessandro Dell’Acqua juxtaposed fragility with rigidity in his beauty-gone-awry collection for No. 21.

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Gucci’s Michele created a surreal landscape—both urban and emotional—with a parade of Renaissance-inspired looks set against the backdrop of an industrial open-air train depot. The Carte de Tendre, Madeleine de Scudéry’s 1654 imaginary land charting the complexities of love, surfaced on a slim, silken dress with a plunging neckline and again on a pleated A-line skirt. Sheerness took on next-level delicacy in frothy pastels with barely there ruffles. Snakes, another recurring motif, offered a darker counterpoint, slithering up the thigh of ankle pants.

Shop: current season Gucci

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How would you celebrate 40 years in fashion? Just weeks ago in Milan, on the exact same day that the city’s 2015 Expo opened, Giorgio Armani nodded at the past and the future with Armani/Silos—a museum of his work and times. Set to be open through the end of October, the first exhibit is a showcase of the sleek, structured yet expressive looks that established the designer’s name in Italy, America and beyond. Says Architectural Digest: “The straightforward structure, named Armani/Silos for the building’s origins as a 1950s granary, is yet another testament to the legendary designer’s practiced minimalism.”

“I thought that bringing clothes, accessories, bags and technical drawings together in a single space, as an archiving project with a particular, personal perspective, would be a concrete way to turn the past into a foundation for the future,” said Armani.

For more from the designer, and stunning images as well, keep reading.

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Fashion Week Journal for Monday, March 9

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As this season’s quartet of Fashion Weeks zipped itself closed and exited stage right yesterday and I boarded a plane bound for familiar faces, the voice in my head was never more like the diaristic Doogie Howser crossed with SJP doing her Carrie Bradshaw narrations. So please indulge me as I attempt to make some sense of the sit-com/sci-fi/drama that was these last 30 days of runways, real ways, icons, offbeats and more.

But …. I’m not ready to bring my Fashion Week coverage to an end per se—stay tuned in the weeks to come as I take you behind even more brands and share some special showroom stories and scenes—but for now I’ve distilled a month’s worth of impressions and ideas down to five notions of what the phenomenon of Fashion Month means right now. 

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Fashion Week Journal for Tuesday, March 10

Whether you’re watching the runway from home or from the front row, it’s impossible to not be completely captivated by certain models. There are the classically beautiful ones and the offbeat beauties, the girls who seem to come from another world and those who might be your awkward neighbor from kindergarten.

The best ones just have that something. Sometimes they’re even a little distracting—you look at them as closely as you do the clothes they’re modeling. But that plays into the brand too. Some models are cast because they have the perfect proportions and walk like they’re in a dream. Some are cast because they simply possess a spirit that draws you in—and keeps you there.

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Napavine, Washington’s Emilie Evander is among the last group. After she walked in the Gucci men’s show (they’re gender benders, you’ll recall) and made big waves there, Alexander Wang cast her as an exclusive for his New York Fashion Week show, then Gucci nabbed her as an exclusive for Milan. And they had her close the show. In Paris, she walked in the much buzzed-about shows for Rick Owens and Margiela.

It’s a big deal to be booked exclusively; it means it’s the only show you do in that market. It means you’re paid more. It means the brand really wants your certain something to represent their certain something. Evander’s certain something is in her 5’11” frame and her ethereal coloring, but it’s also in her goofball spirit and small-town roots. She’s a total sweetheart and a complete teenager. She loves her mom and family and her community, and she’s curious about the world. She also likes steak and french fries, as I learned when I had dinner with her at Le Relais de l’Entrecote.

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Fashion Week Journal for Sunday, March 8

By the fourth week of what is really Fashion Month, the sheer number of shows attended by someone like Konca Aykan, the super-chic stylist and Vogue Turkey Fashion Director, is sort of staggering. So asking her over a laid-back Saturday lunch which ones have stood out—well, it’s not really a trick question, but it’s also not an easy one.

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Milan Fashion Week: March 2

Highlights and commentary from yesterday’s Milan Fashion Week runway shows: Dolce&Gabbana celebrates the beauty of a mother’s love and the whimsy of childhood, MSGM presents quirky retro clash and Marni gives us structured, mid-century minimalism.

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Dolce&Gabbana

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Fashion Week Journal for Saturday, February 28

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Wearing Marni, Acne and Jimmy Choo boots with a Chloé bag; all images courtesy Sandra Hagelstam

The sneakers-with-everything trend has no place in Sandra Hagelstam’s world. Her 5 Inch and Up style blog is all about the heel—and the more runway the better. The higher the better. The more editorial the better.

All hail the statement stiletto, really.

We met up with Hagelstam while we were both in London to get her thoughts on style from fashion city to fashion city.

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Fashion Week Journal for Friday, February 27

It’s Jeremy Scott’s world—for today, you and I are just living in it. The ultra-fresh designer and the innovative team at Moschino have done it again; they’ve solved the runway’s but I want it now problem.

Fresh off the Milan stage, the Moschino Fall 2015 capsule is live; you can shop the brand-new collection of Moschino backpacks, totes and duffle bags, earrings, and phone accessories now and be the first on your block to toy around with Scott’s pop art.

And… GO!

 

Shop: Fall 2015 Moschino runway capsule collection

—Laura Cassidy & Brooklyn Benjestorf

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Milan Fashion Week: February 26

Highlights and commentary from yesterday’s Milan Fashion Week runway shows: Prada plays with pastels in a subversive take on the retro-futurism of the 1960s, while Moschino brings the bling in a campy, loud ‘n’ proud collection that riffs on the street culture of the early ’90s.

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Prada

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It’s like a bad joke:

Q: What does the maximalist take to Fashion Week?

A: Everything.

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