Yep, it’s that time again. In almost exactly one month, editors, buyers, models, and more will be disembarking planes and weaving their way through Manhattan as New York Fashion Week—the Spring 2016 edition—comes to life. And whereas Fall market—which takes place in February and March—is a sort of street style show set in the tundra where a killer statement coat is the key piece, this round takes place in an altogether more temperate climate. The key piece this September and October from New York to London, Milan to Paris? The handbag. We asked Caroline Issa to select one for each city over the next three weeks—and a look to go with them all, too. Let’s kick it off with Gotham City.
New York Fashion Week
Next time you want to throw the party to end all parties, consider making it disco-themed and getting the savior of New York nightlife Ladyfag to host.
The party went down at Jeffrey’s Chelsea boutique; the scene centered around queen diva Ladyfag and Honey Dijon, who deejayed while models and fashion insiders danced to the sounds of disco and the clinking of Clicquot-filled flutes. There was much voguing and merrymaking.
Jeffrey was kind enough to do a quick Q&A the morning after. Read it here and check out our party pics below–and read The New York Times’ review as well.
Nordstrom Men’s Styling Manager Danny Mankin
Image via Style.com
New York Fashion Week: As we’re sure you’ve heard, it’s not just for women anymore. Along with our men’s fashion office team (one of whom is a Tommy Ton favorite, highlighted above), Thread contributor and Men’s Shop Daily whiz Andrew Matson has been on the ground all week.
In order to ensure that his excellent bird’s-eye view and one-on-one interviews are on your radar; here’s a link to his New York Fashion Week: Men’s coverage. From Public School design partner Dao-Yi Chow to images of the prep-perfect Billy Reid show, have at it.
Although you wouldn’t figure him to be any older than, oh, say, your favorite older brother, Gilles Assor, U.S. head of the super-chic heritage footwear brand Robert Clergerie, has been around—in the best way. If you’re lucky enough to spend an afternoon hearing about his career in fashion, you’ll get an earful. From Galliano-era Dior to Jean Paul Gaultier’s JPG line (“before streetwear was streetwear”) to Paco Rabanne (“Balmain now is Paco Rabanne back then”) to the first time Birkenstocks were cool (and sanctioned by the Parisian boutique Colette), and from Barbara Bui to Margiela to Marc Jacobs in the era of baby discos at the Palais de Tokyo. Assor’s narrative résumé is just plain killer. If he weren’t so sweet and fun, he’d be pretty darn intimidating.
And as much as he knows about fashion (in case that isn’t clear yet, it’s A LOT), he’s also a pretty good resource for all things Chelsea. He’s lived in New York’s art gallery–studded neighborhood for four years, and the Robert Clergerie showroom, Assor’s “office,” has been in the Chelsea Arts Tower for two.
We were lucky enough to while away a few hours there with this fine Frenchman a few weeks ago. He snuck us up to the showroom’s rooftop event space, The Glasshouses, and pointed out the sites from on high: the seemingly singular one-story building where Donna Karan is said to be hosting her next runway show, the Frying Pan, the condos with drive-in, elevator-up garages (!).
“Realtors around here are now buying the sky,” he said in his spot-on, deadpan way. We left it at that—except for the following download on galleries, cocktails, coffee and, naturally, summer’s best shoes. (And some other stuff too.)
We’re used to hearing about how designers are caught between seasons; at any given time they’re sketching for one time of year, selecting models to walk a runway for another, and getting sales and marketing reports for a third. But some designers live in between geographic locations as well. For example Joseph Altuzarra. The designer was born in Paris, worked with Marc Jacobs and Proenza Schouler in America, and then Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy in France before striking out on his own and settling down—and getting married—in New York City.
Image by Simon Cave, courtesy Joseph Altuzarra
Of course, who could choose just one city or the other—and why would they want to? There’s a time and place for everything, and we had the designer tell us exactly what that means for him. Keep reading for city-specific thoughts on baked goods, the ballet (he studied and performed for many years), perfect looks from his spring collection (but of course!), and more.
Fashion Week Journal for Monday, March 9
As this season’s quartet of Fashion Weeks zipped itself closed and exited stage right yesterday and I boarded a plane bound for familiar faces, the voice in my head was never more like the diaristic Doogie Howser crossed with SJP doing her Carrie Bradshaw narrations. So please indulge me as I attempt to make some sense of the sit-com/sci-fi/drama that was these last 30 days of runways, real ways, icons, offbeats and more.
But …. I’m not ready to bring my Fashion Week coverage to an end per se—stay tuned in the weeks to come as I take you behind even more brands and share some special showroom stories and scenes—but for now I’ve distilled a month’s worth of impressions and ideas down to five notions of what the phenomenon of Fashion Month means right now.
Eating French Fries with the Model of the Moment and Picking Out Handbags at Chloé with the Luckiest Nordstrom Shopper in the World (This Week)on March 11, 2015
Fashion Week Journal for Tuesday, March 10
Whether you’re watching the runway from home or from the front row, it’s impossible to not be completely captivated by certain models. There are the classically beautiful ones and the offbeat beauties, the girls who seem to come from another world and those who might be your awkward neighbor from kindergarten.
The best ones just have that something. Sometimes they’re even a little distracting—you look at them as closely as you do the clothes they’re modeling. But that plays into the brand too. Some models are cast because they have the perfect proportions and walk like they’re in a dream. Some are cast because they simply possess a spirit that draws you in—and keeps you there.
Napavine, Washington’s Emilie Evander is among the last group. After she walked in the Gucci men’s show (they’re gender benders, you’ll recall) and made big waves there, Alexander Wang cast her as an exclusive for his New York Fashion Week show, then Gucci nabbed her as an exclusive for Milan. And they had her close the show. In Paris, she walked in the much buzzed-about shows for Rick Owens and Margiela.
It’s a big deal to be booked exclusively; it means it’s the only show you do in that market. It means you’re paid more. It means the brand really wants your certain something to represent their certain something. Evander’s certain something is in her 5’11” frame and her ethereal coloring, but it’s also in her goofball spirit and small-town roots. She’s a total sweetheart and a complete teenager. She loves her mom and family and her community, and she’s curious about the world. She also likes steak and French fries, as I learned when I had dinner with her at Le Relais de l’Entrecote.
What to Wear in Milan, Paris, London and New York from 5 Inch and Up Blogger Sandra Hagelstam and Edie Campbell’s Hair in Milanon March 2, 2015
Fashion Week Journal for Saturday, February 28
The sneakers-with-everything trend has no place in Sandra Hagelstam’s world. Her 5 Inch and Up style blog is all about the heel—and the more runway the better. The higher the better. The more editorial the better.
All hail the statement stiletto, really.
We met up with Hagelstam while we were both in London to get her thoughts on style from fashion city to fashion city.
Tamara (Glam and Glitter) is a regular on The Thread, thanks to her trendy, feminine style. She’s just one of those girls who looks amazing in anything. This biker-chic ensemble fits right in at London Fashion Week. The moto jacket is still everywhere, and graphic jumpers are kitschy cute. Her blue palette works well against the grey skies we’ve been having. Tamara is stylish and a total sweetheart: the best of both worlds!