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As the lights dimmed at Nanette Lepore‘s fall/winter 2013 show at Lincoln Center on Wednesday, the runway turned into a metaphorical spaceship, and a voice boomed over the loudspeaker announcing our imminent arrival on Mars. Lepore wasn’t kidding. Her collection was rampant with futuristic flourishes, from iridescent sweaters and hologram handbags to asymmetrical necklines and geometric cutouts that wouldn’t be out of place on Star Trek. Lucky for us, they’re softened and toned down just enough to suit the modern woman—or, should we say, the woman of the future.
Shoppers are frequently flabbergasted over how far ahead the fashion world plans: “Shorts for sale in February??” But when it comes to Fashion Week, looking at fall collections in the dead of winter feels pretty good. It’s all sweaters, coats and boots—just what the doctor ordered. Last night, Elizabeth and James brought the cozy and then some with its fall/winter 2013 presentation on the rooftop of the Hôtel Americano. Unveiled in tandem with the brand’s handbag launch, the collection featured plush pullovers made of feather yarn, faux shearling coats and the world’s cutest oversized polka-dot sweater. At this rate, winter can stay all year.
Themes aren’t always apparent in a new collection—it often takes an interview with the designer or a look at the show program to fully understand the thought behind the artistry. But with Reed Krakoff‘s fall/winter 2013 collection, shown today in Chelsea, there was no denying a serpentine motif weaving its way through his clothing and handbags. Python swaths coiled around an asymmetrical white dress while various shades of alligator composed the torsos of cashmere sweaters, the shafts of tall boots and the foundations of structured handbags and clutches. It’s clearly cool to be cold-blooded. (See also: the front row and our backstage beauty coverage of this show)
Nearly 50 years in business, and Oscar de la Renta is still producing some of the chicest ready-to-wear around. He’s one of the few old-school designers who sticks to his aesthetic—feminine, luxe and decadent—but seamlessly weaves in trend-forward touches throughout the collection. For fall/winter 2013, unveiled in de la Renta’s showroom last night, modern concepts included draped leather, sculptural hats by Patricia Underwood and a vibrant psychedelic print. But of course, the classic cocktail dresses and over-the-top ballgowns were our favorites, styled with dainty sheer gloves and pointed-toe pumps. Bring on the fairy tale.
Allow us to take you on a beautiful, winding journey through the Rodarte psyche. It starts with extreme bodysuits and silk chiffon, meanders into sheer dresses and embroidered sweaters, takes a hard left at tie-dye, and culminates with acid-washed draped silk fit for a Grecian statue. Designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy never fail to tell a unique story with their collections, and this season it touches on femininity, psychedelia and sensuality. Oh, and don’t forget the embroidered angel wings—there’s also an innocence to this journey that prevents you from getting lost.
Rodarte is available in selected stores. Call 1.877.543.7463 to talk to a Designer specialist.
Pile on the layers: According to MM6 Maison Martin Margiela, the key silhouette this season puts volume on top and skinny on the bottom. For a brand that doesn’t toe the line with trends, they’re pretty spot on, and no one does oversized quite like Margiela. Yesterday’s show turned out a plethora of excellent coats, from draped capes to long puffer jackets. What stood out the most, however, were the bright pops of red and yellow—striking in a sea of washed-out neutrals.
Ladies, start your engines. The tough chicks of the café racer scene inspired 3.1 Phillip Lim‘s masculine-tinged fall/winter 2013 collection, shown yesterday in midtown’s cavernous Moynihan Station. The show was titled “Sonomama,” a Japanese phrase meaning “as it is,” or “as you are.” Lim showed us exactly who his biker babes are with a slew of sporty styles: light denim covered in patches, winged lapels, raw-edge leather and stiff, over-the-knee boots. His palette, while heavy on the neutrals and black, allowed for some cool jewel tones, salmon pink and olive green. (see also: 3.1 Phillip Lim backstage beauty)
Anyone up for a midnight soiree? While many designers unveiled dark, brooding, ultra-serious clothing for fall/winter 2013, Alice + Olivia‘s Stacy Bendet delivered a cork-pop of a collection infused with party girl attitude and old-school glamour. These frocks are fun, and that’s all there is to it. This season, Bendet took inspiration from early twentieth-century Parisian writer Natalie Barney, a brash feminist who hosted weekly salons for academics, artists and radicals. Bendet put a modern spin on La Belle Époque with leather bustiers, open-backed lace dresses, burnout velvet and flounced floral brocade. Joie de vivre, indeed.
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