Nordstrom at Fashion Week

Both Rick Owens’s and Ann Demeulemeester’s runway feats gave ample reason for pause yesterday. Owens’s show marched women wearing other women in the basement of the Palais de Tokyo. For Demeulemeester, art director Sébastien Meunier utilized choker-topped leather harnesses to push his languid looks in a sadomasochistic direction. Alber Elbaz of Lanvin played with the ever-rich topic of sexuality and androgyny. Yet, in spite of body politics, each collection offered a surprisingly accessible selection of wardrobe staples.

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Images: InDigital

In every collection, Owens distorts silhouettes and by extension physical form. In this spring 2016 lineup, a lens of female resilience governed that distortion. Gymnasts, interspersed with models, carried the physical weight of another body—much like the weight women bear as nurturers, in Owens’s mind. The clothing itself maintained his signature sculptural quality, like beautifully shaped folds transforming short dresses or a supple mix of organza, canvas and leather tinged with metallics. Short architectural dresses aside, other key winners included tonal bombers, sleeveless dusters and crinkled anoraks.

Shop: current season Rick Owens

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An ode to grunge seems to be resonating through the halls, or tents, of New York Fashion Week. Yet, in not-quite-equal measure, an intoxicating backlash of femininity is vying for attention—glamour, it seems, refuses to take a backseat. Thus, Wednesday’s lineup skipped around from gender defying to overtly sexual to all-out decorative feats.

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Photos: InDigital

Under the direction of newly minted creative leads Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, the hotly anticipated DKNY show had something to prove. Sticking to what they know best (menswear), the Public School duo teased out the tension between hard and soft. Although they may have veered from the label’s unfussy DNA, they struck gold with deconstructed power suits reinvented as dresses and skirts. Sheer-to-silk fabrications with more fluid drape worked in softer elements. Palette anchored the elemental aesthetic. Save for two cobalt looks, every piece stuck to a black-white dichotomy.

Shop: current season DKNY

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Número tres stop during Spring 2016 Fashion Month is Milan, Italy’s fashion, commercial and economic hub. As with New York and London before, designer Caroline Issa—a street-style guru, too—has selected an outfit that revolves around a handbag chosen for the chic city. And this suede, drawstring borsa is molto bella. 

Loewe 'Flamenco Knot' Bag

                Loewe Flamenco Knot suede & calfskin leather bag

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Collections from top American and European designers are almost never shown together on one runway, but each summer Nordstrom pulls together amazing fall looks from Céline, Valentino, Lanvin and more for a best-of-the-best fashion show event known as Designer Preview. This year’s gorgeous parade is on July 23—on the epic Seattle waterfront—and as always, all proceeds benefit the Seattle Art Museum.

An image from Designer Preview 2014

Among those expected in the front row: One of our favorite collaborators, Caroline Issa, and two of the most girl crush-worthy editors from Refinery29, Annie Georgia Greenberg and Paula Goldstein. Instagrammin’ style watchers will recognize Cara Van Brocklin from Cara Loren, Blair Eadie from Atlantic-Pacific and Wendy Nguyen from Wendy’s Lookbook—all flying in for the big event.

You’re invited too, of course—tickets are available via SAMS, Seattle Art Museum’s supporter group. The only question left to settle, then, is what will we all wear?

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Fashion Week Journal for Monday, March 9

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As this season’s quartet of Fashion Weeks zipped itself closed and exited stage right yesterday and I boarded a plane bound for familiar faces, the voice in my head was never more like the diaristic Doogie Howser crossed with SJP doing her Carrie Bradshaw narrations. So please indulge me as I attempt to make some sense of the sit-com/sci-fi/drama that was these last 30 days of runways, real ways, icons, offbeats and more.

But …. I’m not ready to bring my Fashion Week coverage to an end per se—stay tuned in the weeks to come as I take you behind even more brands and share some special showroom stories and scenes—but for now I’ve distilled a month’s worth of impressions and ideas down to five notions of what the phenomenon of Fashion Month means right now. 

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Designers in Paris tend to march to their own very distinct beat, and the shows there always deliver a beautifully diverse array of trends. There were, however, certain key looks, items and ideas that emerged over the course of all four of this season’s fashion weeks and reached their apex in the French capital.

Among our Top 10: A mood of romantic, gothic Victorian; a nostalgic ’70s feeling; and a clean-edged retro-future idea that recalls the ’60s but is brought up to date with modern fabrications. Fur and layered texture continue in importance and a tailored coat, sleek bag and fitted boot will all be must-haves come fall. High-shine leather and precious dimensional embellishments in unexpected forms keep the look sleek, modern and feminine. Enjoy!

1. ’70S NOSTALGIA

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2. GOTHIC ROMANCE

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3. RETRO FUTURE

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Highlights and commentary from yesterday’s runway shows: Saint Laurent channels and refines a little ’80s rock ‘n’ roll, and Valentino takes a gothic plunge into a sea of black textures before bestowing viewers with a really, really, ridiculously good-looking surprise.

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 Saint Laurent

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Fashion Week Journal for Monday, March 9

It’s weird but true: a good coffee in Paris is hard to find. Unless, that is, you happen to go by Vogue’s Americans in Paris Fashion Week showcase where a certain award-winning, coffee-making expat is pulling shots and doling out croissants.

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Pernille Teisbaek has truly covetable style. Every time I run into her, I want to copy her look and today was no different. Pernille’s the master of Nordic cool–effortless and ahead of the curve. She’s ticked all the biggest trend boxes with today’s outfit, but manages to make each theme feel fresh and inspiring.

xo,
Crystal Nicodemus

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Shop similar styles:
Moto Jackets | Turtlenecks | White Sneakers | Clothes with Fringe

Shop our Editors’ Picks to re-create this look:

MICHAEL Michael Kors ‘New Navy’ Moto Jacket | Superga ‘Cotu’ Sneaker | EACH X OTHER Long Fringe Shirt

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