Designers in Paris tend to march to their own very distinct beat, and the shows there always deliver a beautifully diverse array of trends. There were, however, certain key looks, items and ideas that emerged over the course of all four of this season’s fashion weeks and reached their apex in the French capital.
Among our Top 10: A mood of romantic, gothic Victorian; a nostalgic ’70s feeling; and a clean-edged retro-future idea that recalls the ’60s but is brought up to date with modern fabrications. Fur and layered texture continue in importance and a tailored coat, sleek bag and fitted boot will all be must-haves come fall. High-shine leather and precious dimensional embellishments in unexpected forms keep the look sleek, modern and feminine. Enjoy!
1. ’70S NOSTALGIA
2. GOTHIC ROMANCE
3. RETRO FUTURE
Fashion Week Journal for Tuesday, March 10
Whether you’re watching the runway from home or from the front row, it’s impossible to not be completely captivated by certain models. There are the classically beautiful ones and the offbeat beauties, the girls who seem to come from another world and those who might be your awkward neighbor from kindergarten.
The best ones just have that something. Sometimes they’re even a little distracting—you look at them as closely as you do the clothes they’re modeling. But that plays into the brand too. Some models are cast because they have the perfect proportions and walk like they’re in a dream. Some are cast because they simply possess a spirit that draws you in—and keeps you there.
Napavine, Washington’s Emilie Evander is among the last group. After she walked in the Gucci men’s show (they’re gender benders, you’ll recall) and made big waves there, Alexander Wang cast her as an exclusive for his New York Fashion Week show, then Gucci nabbed her as an exclusive for Milan. And they had her close the show. In Paris, she walked in the much buzzed-about shows for Rick Owens and Margiela.
It’s a big deal to be booked exclusively; it means it’s the only show you do in that market. It means you’re paid more. It means the brand really wants your certain something to represent their certain something. Evander’s certain something is in her 5’11″ frame and her ethereal coloring, but it’s also in her goofball spirit and small-town roots. She’s a total sweetheart and a complete teenager. She loves her mom and family and her community, and she’s curious about the world. She also likes steak and French fries, as I learned when I had dinner with her at Le Relais de l’Entrecote.
Highlights and commentary from yesterday’s runway shows: Saint Laurent channels and refines a little ’80s rock ‘n’ roll, and Valentino takes a gothic plunge into a sea of black textures before bestowing viewers with a really, really, ridiculously good-looking surprise.
Fashion Week Journal for Monday, March 9
It’s weird but true: a good coffee in Paris is hard to find. Unless, that is, you happen to go by Vogue’s Americans in Paris Fashion Week showcase where a certain award-winning, coffee-making expat is pulling shots and doling out croissants.
Highlights and commentary from yesterday’s runway shows: Stella McCartney makes modern sophistication look totally effortless.
Fashion Week Journal for Sunday, March 8
By the fourth week of what is really Fashion Month, the sheer number of shows attended by someone like Konca Aykan, the super-chic stylist and Vogue Turkey Fashion Director, is sort of staggering. So asking her over a laid-back Saturday lunch which ones have stood out—well, it’s not really a trick question, but it’s also not an easy one.
Highlights and commentary from yesterday’s runway shows: Chloé rocks a bewitching uptown-gypsy vibe; Kenzo wraps mod military layers around fluid designs that nod to the label’s Japanese DNA.
Fashion Week Journal for Sunday, March 8
If you’re the sort who’s in it for the details, runway shows can actually be a little bit frustrating. Even from Kim and Kanye’s seats, you just can’t always see the tiny embellishments and the careful tucks and seams—let alone the accessories or the nails. At Kenzo, details have a way of being not just downright museum-quality but also streetwise and cool, so I was pretty psyched to learn that I had backstage access before their show. All the better to see the nuances at close range, and to see how the story of those details comes together.
Turns out there really is a nuanced tale behind Kenzo’s fall 2015 collection. Keep reading to get the scoop, and to find out how eventually the entire Paris Event Center got to see it up close and personally.
Highlights and commentary from yesterday’s Haider Ackermann runway show: gaunt-faced, androgynous models in layers of clashing pattern and texture harkened back to the early days of Adam Ant and rock and roll’s New Romantic scene.
Fashion Office Bottom Line: Haider Ackerman’s usual romantic, long and languid silhouette was taken in a slightly tougher direction for fall, with animal prints and op-art checkerboard pieces layered over skinny black leather pants—the ultimate in rocker chic. Individual pieces still provide plenty to please fans of his signature skinny, fluid tailoring.
See all of our Fashion Week Coverage.
As Fashion Month moves on to Paris, a major message for next season looks set to be multilayered texture. Mix fur, shearling and textured tweedy sweaters with sequins and vintage brocade for a new take on the glamorous bohemian mood of fall ‘15.
–The Fashion Office