Rick Owens

No one likes Rick Owens. If you’re into Rick Owens, you love Rick Owens. And some people who love the American-turned-Parisian designer basically live and breathe the brand.

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Fans outside the Rick Owens show in the designer’s current season looks; all crowd images by Jessa Carter

And come Fashion Week, those people make for the best kind of circuscostumes, paparazzi, paparazzi for the paparazzi, and curious onlookers who might have no idea what’s actually going on. And then, of course, Anna and Giovanna. We got thoroughly caught up in the devotees and their amazing style on Thursday afternoon before the runway presentation at Palais de Tokyo, and then we entered the show to find the most extraordinary thing: pastel feathers and gentle, sloping accents of color.

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One idea for a uniform for spring 2016: designer sneakers everyday.

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What to make of a collection named for an extinct species of elephant-like mammals called mastodons? When it’s rendered in royal, candy-colored greens and lush, decadent materials like crushed velvet and angora, we’re tempted to believe that Rick Owens sees us as earth warriors of the most valiant kind.

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The California-born, Paris-based designer has been talking about climate change of late, and he gave his menswear presentation the same Stone Age-esque name, allotting cargo pants, puffy coats and beautifully twisted forms to both shows. In the Vogue.com review of the men’s version, he’s quoted as saying, “Hope for the best, but prepare for the worst.”

Not to be glib or anything, but if this is what we’ll be wearing should the end of humanity draw near, it looks like a pretty incredible party.

HERE’S MORE ON THE DESIGNER’S CINEMATIC LAST DAYS SCENARIO

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Both Rick Owens’s and Ann Demeulemeester’s runway feats gave ample reason for pause yesterday. Owens’s show marched women wearing other women in the basement of the Palais de Tokyo. For Demeulemeester, art director Sébastien Meunier utilized choker-topped leather harnesses to push his languid looks in a sadomasochistic direction. Alber Elbaz of Lanvin played with the ever-rich topic of sexuality and androgyny. Yet, in spite of body politics, each collection offered a surprisingly accessible selection of wardrobe staples.

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Images: InDigital

In every collection, Owens distorts silhouettes and by extension physical form. In this spring 2016 lineup, a lens of female resilience governed that distortion. Gymnasts, interspersed with models, carried the physical weight of another body—much like the weight women bear as nurturers, in Owens’s mind. The clothing itself maintained his signature sculptural quality, like beautifully shaped folds transforming short dresses or a supple mix of organza, canvas and leather tinged with metallics. Short architectural dresses aside, other key winners included tonal bombers, sleeveless dusters and crinkled anoraks.

Shop: current season Rick Owens

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Moments before the lights dimmed inside the catacombs of the Palais de Tokyo, Nordstrom designer apparel executive Jennifer Wheeler turned to me and said, “I wonder what he’s going to do this time?” with a looking-forward-to-it grin.

rick-owens_openerPhotos: InDigital

Rick Owens has always been known for dark, minimally extravagant and architectural pieces that have the power to transform a wardrobe. What he’s becoming more and more known for, are runway shows that include all manner of body politics, performance art and conceptual ideas about modern life. (I would hyperlink something here, but I’m afraid some of it is #NSFW.)

There’s nothing in this post that will get you in trouble, but if someone’s looking over your shoulder right now, prepare for the fact that things are going to get weird—and then you’re going to see a really earthy, beautifully sculptural spring collection.

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Ooh la la! Aimee Song seriously heated up the street-style scene today. This slim, sexy knit dress is a dream on her, especially with that California glow. I would wear this outfit in a second, if I thought I could look half as amazing as Aimee! Lace-up stilettos amp up the sex appeal even further. A subtle touch of makeup and minimal jewelry keep this look modern and chic.

xo,
Crystal Nicodemus

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Shop similar styles:
Lace-Up Pumps | Knit Maxi Dresses | Fringe & Tassel Handbags

Shop our Editors’ Picks to re-create this look:

Klub Nico Lace-Up Sandal | Rick Owens Knit Maxi Dress | Vince Camuto Fringe Tote

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Paris Fashion Week: September 25

Highlights from yesterday’s shows: four distinctly different takes on retro styling from Carven, Nina Ricci, Lanvin and Rick Owens.

Carven
The swingin’ ’60s designs at Carven were inspired by speed, from racing graphics to road stripes, and the results are deliciously wearable. Figure-flattering A-line shifts and boxy car coats race into the new century fueled by python details and Japanese-inspired prints that play to our decade’s obsession with fun mashups.

Carven delivers a perfectly mod meditation on Speed Racer with a luxe, 21st-century twist.

A mod meditation on Speed Racer—with a luxe, 21st-century twist.

Nina Ricci
The romance of the 1940s is alive and well at Nina Ricci. A parade of pretty shift dresses, elegant jackets and beautifully draped separates evoke the freshness of springtime and the optimism of new beginnings. Shell pinks, egg yolk yellows, baby blues and earthy browns highlight tactile, touchable fabrics that will feel like an absolute dream against the skin.

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The theme at Nina Ricci this season? Perfectly pretty, romantically retro.

Lanvin
With this collection, Alber Elbaz celebrates the women he loves. Simple silhouettes and forgiving fabrics are elegantly draped, then brought to the next level with dramatic accessories like python belts and sculptural statement necklaces. The jacket is an important piece this season, with boxy, bold shoulders and rich details.

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Lanvin celebrates women by offering simple silhouettes with rich, intricate detailing.

Rick Owens
Inspired by Bauhaus architecture and the Ballets Russes, Rick Owens presents one of his loveliest collections to date. Flights of tulle escape from the sides of strict shift silhouettes, like ballerinas sneaking out of a Walter Gropius girls’ school. Textures are ethereal with charmingly uneven or unfinished hemlines, and counterbalanced by an earthy, restrained palette.

rick-owens-spring-2015-paris-fashion-weekRick Owens riffs on the question, “What if the brutalist movement went to the ballet?”

See all of our Fashion Week coverage.
Amy Leigh Morgan
photos: gorunway.com

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Runway Rundown: Rick Owens

The mastermind of tribal futurism, Rick Owens flexed his technical prowess and served up sculpted silhouettes, impeccable tailoring with an urban edge for fall 2014.

Stomp in spring and check out our Rick Owens review.

Qianna Smith

See all of our Fashion Week coverage and check out our Fashion Week Hub.
Photos: GoRunway.com

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Street Report: Mathé at Thakoon

Menswear themes are wildly popular this season, and Mathé says she loves the trend. Her trousers and pointed loafers are a perfect pairing, while her leather jacket adds a little toughness to her preppy look. Of course, a beautiful smile is the best accessory—and Mathé’s got a great one!

xo,
Crystal

Shop similar styles:
Black Leather Jackets | Statement Necklaces | Wool Straight-Leg Pants

Shop our Editors’ Picks to re-create this look:

Rick Owens Leather Jacket | kate spade new york necklace | Oscar de la Renta Gingham Pants

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The Rick Owens show was such a highlight for me, one I’ll never forget. Rick’s shows are renowned for the element of the unexpected, and this season was no exception—with teams of step dancers marching out in his designs, to pounding music.

The dancers were both ethnically diverse and full-figured, which was both timely and refreshing. On the whole, the performance was totally captivating, full of emotion and power.

As the music began to build and the dancing become more charged with intensity, attendees began to stand up and shout out, and I felt my hair stand on end. I can’t really add more to explain how thrilling the show was, other than to say, “You had to be there.”

Hopefully, my images can do a small amount of justice to the Rick Owens show, because it was really special. You know they’ve seen something extraordinary when attendees leave the show grinning!

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