Runway Trends

Paris shone with subtlety this season as established designers experimented with new silhouettes and a fresh crop of creatives—including Koché and Atlein—introduced their vision for the urban sophisticate. Although there weren’t exactly pyrotechnics on the runway, the City of Light shimmered with the obvious skill and vision of the world-class labels who show there.

Here are some of our highlights.

1. Demna Gvsalia’s first Balenciaga collection sent reverberations through the fashion world. Simultaneously showing that nothing and everything was sacred, Gvsalia played with the storied house’s reputation for angular suiting by creating sloped shouldered and hunchbacked silhouettes, disfiguring classic shapes to inject an irreverent sensibility.

Balenciaga Fall 2016
Images: InDigital

THE COUNTDOWN CONTINUES: READ MORE

{ 0 comments }

Usually one to put on a show, Karl Lagerfeld has moved on from his CHANEL airports, supermarkets and street cafés to a refreshingly subdued runway with simple white carpet and gold seatingc’est tout–at the Grand Palais.

A look from Chanel at Paris Fashion Week Fall 2016

Images: InDigital

For fall, the legendary designer reworked the brand’s classics. Multimedia boater hats, exaggerated pearl necklaces and camellia motifs–that ranged from large prints to heavily appliquéd cuffs–combined retro and trendy. The iconic CHANEL tweeds were saturated in neon berry hues, sometimes worked in with denim, and always paired with matching riding boots and caps. Standout pieces with sure street-style futures include the charming and ethereal, tiered ivory lace frocks in every length and the oversized pearl necklaces that accessorized the majority of looks.

READ MORE

{ 0 comments }

Hedi Slimane fanned rumors around his exit from Saint Laurent at his Paris show, rousing critics and fans with an aesthetic departure from his usual slinky indie ’90s grunge looks. 

SaintLaurent_090_fw16Images: InDigital

Leave it to Slimane to show couture at Paris’s designated ready-to-wear week. In one of the brand’s recently renovated atelier studios, models teetered down a grand staircase in no less than 42 couture looks strongly channeling ’80s glam through single-shouldered minidresses and belted waists. The collection took the era’s strong shoulders to a new architectural extreme, paired with super-short hemlines—whether skintight or poufed—deep necklines and voluminous side bows. Still, Slimane managed to string along his signature ultra-skinny suits and shimmering minis before closing with a rouge heart-shaped fur coat.

 SHOP: Saint Laurent

READ MORE

{ 0 comments }

Phoebe Philo runs a well-oiled fashion house at Céline, continually creating pieces that are beautiful in their simplicity and blend tasteful wearability with innovative silhouettes.

Celine_205_fw16
Images: InDigital

Philo delivered yet again Sunday, giving us a seasonless collection of kick-flare pants, lengthy tunics and leather toppers in soft ivory, beige, black and ochre. Oversized, strong-collared men’s shirts over ultra-wide-leg pants took the once trendy pajama dressing to the streets in a less sleepy-eyed way by working with stiffer fabrics and bigger proportions. Ruched, crinkled and knotted satin frocks were worn over flowing wide-leg trousers, while oblong crystal belts linked like chains were featured on a number of fit-and-flare midis. The label’s beloved bags were tied around waists (like a fanny pack, but so much better) or wrapped around wrists. 

READ MORE

{ 0 comments }

Mugler’s David Koma focused on transitions Saturday in Paris, combining moody and wintery tones with a sunset backdrop and a sandy ochre catwalk for a trans-seasonal collection.

Mugler_106_fw16Images: InDigital

Koma balanced contrast, opening the show with tough-girl leathers crafted into corseted gladiator skirts and minidresses, with the heavy use of embossed patent croc as texture on otherwise simple designs—think oversized statement lapels on a boxy jacket, a waist-cinching bodice on an LBD or cut into panels and layered on top of red jersey skirts and off-the-shoulder minidresses. And just like that, the leathers were replaced by satin ivory frocks with asymmetrical hemlines, sporty angular cutouts and color blocking to balance out the hardness.

READ MORE

{ 0 comments }

After Raf Simons’s three-year stylistic overhaul at Christian Dior, the lovable designer split ties last October, leaving the latest collection in the hands of the brand’s studio team. 

Christian_Dior_221_fw16Images: InDigital

The proxy creative design position was led by studio heads Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux, who did a solid job envisioning a transitional collection that blended Dior’s historic silhouettes with Simons’s controlled sense of experimentation. There was a focus on tailored outerwear and clean lines, specifically the brand’s historical “New Look” silhouette, with cinched waists and flared skirts. Color and flourish were styled after Simons’s design mantra with flouncy, ruffled tops and embellished A-line skirts or ballooning sleeves; contrast cuffs teamed up with slim pencil skirts for a play on proportion. Execution aside, the same styles reappeared, reminding us of the collection’s placeholder status.

READ MORE

{ 0 comments }

According to many and most, Milan Fashion Week is back in a very Italian, so very big, way. Although the va-va-voom of the country’s fashion sense may be turning toward slightly subtler and arguably more intellectual designs, the runway is still packed with showstoppers, the world’s most beautiful models, high drama and exquisite tailoring.

Here were some of our favorite moments from Milan Fashion Week Fall 2016.

  1. Moschino was smoking. Well, some of Jeremy Scott’s designs very literally were. Scott’s stunningly singed collection also featured stealthy smoke machines that furthered the illusion of the very flammable nature of his fashions.
    A dress from Moschino Milan Fall 2016

SEE OTHER HOT LOOKS FROM MFW

{ 0 comments }

EACH X OTHER founders Ilan Delouis and Jenny Mannerheim’s continued enlistment of street poet Robert Montgomery and his melancholic phrases resulted in a thought-provoking fall presentation in Paris.

EachXOther_048_fw16Images: InDigital

The majority of the collection, which you could easily pluck off the runway and place on the streets for photographers to mob, met the demand for contemporary cool-kid wears with androgynous tailoring and denim sets. Take the turtlenecks and their midi dress toppers, paperbag-waist skirts and retro patchwork leather jackets. There was also new-age power suiting. The defining edge could be Montgomery’s scratchy embroidered and hand-painted phrases–contemplations like “Poetry finally kills ‘celebrity culture’” and “Seagulls are low planes on fire”–on the necks, backs and cuffs of layers.

READ MORE

{ 0 comments }

After a popular run at the Oscars outfitting Cate Blanchett, Leonardo DiCaprio, Naomi Watts and mini-star Jacob Tremblay, Giorgio Armani was back at the Fashion Week grind yesterday morning with a strong fall collection.giorgio_armani_245_fw16

Image: InDigital

Save for a few red carpet hopefuls like the sequined column and laser-cut floral lace gowns, Armani made a strong argument for velvet daywear. But not retro velvet: the designer took the fabric de la saison and worked it into pieces for sophisticated working women. Post-show, Armani explained he wasn’t trying to “overdo it,” removing himself from the “need to surprise through a palette of colors and a mix of fabrics.” Instead, he crafted mix-and-match workwear like wide-leg crop trousers, jogger pants and tweed jackets. Racing-striped slacks with patterned blazers introduced more lively graphics including watercolor floral silk palazzos with microprint blazers and boxy tops, which, we can only hope, are the future of officewear. 

SHOP: current season Armani

—Emma Ranniger

{ 0 comments }

With a vision of modern romanticism, Marni’s Consuelo Castiglioni played with proportion and curvature for the eclectic Italian brand’s fall collection.Marni_149_fw16

Images: InDigital

Only the Italian designer could translate stirrup pants into something trendy, adding thick waistbands with oversized buttons and pairing them with ballooning sleeves, innovative capes and cutaway layers. Castiglioni’s conceptual eye for combining luxury and simplicity resulted in stiff and structural fabrics molded into rounded shoulders, voluminous cinched sleeves and new-wave cutouts. Sporty knits and ski pants are likely street-style contenders, while we’re hoping the abstract embroidered tweed power suits are the next big thing in office wear.

SHOP: current season Marni

READ MORE

{ 0 comments }