Storied fashion house Jimmy Choo held a benefit runway show for the Pacific Northwest Ballet at Januik Winery on Thursday, which included gift bags containing the brand’s new scent Flash, ballerinas dancing down the aisle and, of course, dozens of glamorous heels.
Now entering the Dark Ages. Navy blue and slate grey were about as bright as the Salvatore Ferragamo runway got yesterday—a lack-of-color story that worked well with the collection’s sleek, finely tailored aesthetic. Creative director Massimiliano Giornetti centered on “architectural neatness” for fall/winter 2013, resulting in sharp collars, peekaboo sheers and short, asymmetrical hemlines. But we couldn’t stop gazing at the shoes—in particular, the pointed-toe boots with T-strap cutouts. They epitomize dark, downtown edge—and a girl too cool for color.
As the lights dimmed at Nanette Lepore‘s fall/winter 2013 show at Lincoln Center on Wednesday, the runway turned into a metaphorical spaceship, and a voice boomed over the loudspeaker announcing our imminent arrival on Mars. Lepore wasn’t kidding. Her collection was rampant with futuristic flourishes, from iridescent sweaters and hologram handbags to asymmetrical necklines and geometric cutouts that wouldn’t be out of place on Star Trek. Lucky for us, they’re softened and toned down just enough to suit the modern woman—or, should we say, the woman of the future.
Themes aren’t always apparent in a new collection—it often takes an interview with the designer or a look at the show program to fully understand the thought behind the artistry. But with Reed Krakoff‘s fall/winter 2013 collection, shown today in Chelsea, there was no denying a serpentine motif weaving its way through his clothing and handbags. Python swaths coiled around an asymmetrical white dress while various shades of alligator composed the torsos of cashmere sweaters, the shafts of tall boots and the foundations of structured handbags and clutches. It’s clearly cool to be cold-blooded. (See also: the front row and our backstage beauty coverage of this show)
Nearly 50 years in business, and Oscar de la Renta is still producing some of the chicest ready-to-wear around. He’s one of the few old-school designers who sticks to his aesthetic—feminine, luxe and decadent—but seamlessly weaves in trend-forward touches throughout the collection. For fall/winter 2013, unveiled in de la Renta’s showroom last night, modern concepts included draped leather, sculptural hats by Patricia Underwood and a vibrant psychedelic print. But of course, the classic cocktail dresses and over-the-top ballgowns were our favorites, styled with dainty sheer gloves and pointed-toe pumps. Bring on the fairy tale.
Allow us to take you on a beautiful, winding journey through the Rodarte psyche. It starts with extreme bodysuits and silk chiffon, meanders into sheer dresses and embroidered sweaters, takes a hard left at tie-dye, and culminates with acid-washed draped silk fit for a Grecian statue. Designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy never fail to tell a unique story with their collections, and this season it touches on femininity, psychedelia and sensuality. Oh, and don’t forget the embroidered angel wings—there’s also an innocence to this journey that prevents you from getting lost.
Rodarte is available in selected stores. Call 1.877.543.7463 to talk to a Designer specialist.
Pile on the layers: According to MM6 Maison Martin Margiela, the key silhouette this season puts volume on top and skinny on the bottom. For a brand that doesn’t toe the line with trends, they’re pretty spot on, and no one does oversized quite like Margiela. Yesterday’s show turned out a plethora of excellent coats, from draped capes to long puffer jackets. What stood out the most, however, were the bright pops of red and yellow—striking in a sea of washed-out neutrals.
Ladies, start your engines. The tough chicks of the café racer scene inspired 3.1 Phillip Lim‘s masculine-tinged fall/winter 2013 collection, shown yesterday in midtown’s cavernous Moynihan Station. The show was titled “Sonomama,” a Japanese phrase meaning “as it is,” or “as you are.” Lim showed us exactly who his biker babes are with a slew of sporty styles: light denim covered in patches, winged lapels, raw-edge leather and stiff, over-the-knee boots. His palette, while heavy on the neutrals and black, allowed for some cool jewel tones, salmon pink and olive green. (see also: 3.1 Phillip Lim backstage beauty)
Oversized sculptural shapes, exaggerated draping, monochromatic neutrals, sharp tailoring—Olivier Theyskens hit all the cutting-edge trends at his fall/winter 2013 show this afternoon, further cementing Theyskens’ Theory as a heavy hitter in the designer realm. But it was the textures that made this collection stand out: thick waffle-knit sweaters, roomy quilted overcoats, and dark sequins made for a chic, downtown vibe. Despite the daring silhouettes, each piece carried remarkable versatility, bolstered by a crisp palette of not-quite-white and not-quite-black.
Finally, some bright, colorful prints to lighten up this largely dark and moody Fashion Week. Tracy Reese brought the happy with her fall/winter 2013 collection inspired by the women of New York … and cats! She sprinkled in a few feline references in the form of cheetah prints and cat-eye sunglasses—but the big wow of the show came from an actual cat making its runway debut.
We spotted the beautiful Angela Bassett in the front row.