The SPACE team‘s fashion week spreadsheet had five new names on it this season: Eric Schlösberg, Eckhaus Latta, Dilara Findikoglu, A.W.A.K.E, and Vejas. Together, they represent our new shop-in-shop, SPACE LAB.
Details from Dilara Findikoglu’s London Fashion Week presentation.
Debuting today in Seattle, Chicago, Los Angeles, Vancouver, Toronto and online, SPACE LAB is a fashion incubator; it’s a way for Olivia and her team to pay special attention to brands that are operating just a little bit outside the lines, and also just breaking their stride. It’s a way to nurture them and stand by them as their careers make important pivots.
And we do mean stand by them: Even though SPACE LAB is set up to stock and mentor five designers at a time for just one season starting this spring, we met with designers during New York and London Fashion Weeks (we’ll catch up with Vejas in Paris in about a week) to see what they’re presenting for next fall.
MEET THE DESIGNERS AND SEE WHAT THEY’RE SHOWING
Every season Ashley Williams sends out a small poster in lieu of a more typical show invite, and every season it has something to do with being in a slightly sour state of mind. The poster we unwrapped upon arriving for the first show of London Fashion Week, however, went to new heights—or would that be new lows? In Ashley’s world, they’re sort of the same. The poster said “Genuine Misery”; the image was a teeth-baring guard dog.
“My business partner and I, we have this thing, ‘Optimistic emo,'” the designer told me backstage. It’s like an unofficial rule that keeps them in line, she explained; they can be real about their bad moods, but they have to be good-natured about them, too. And while misery is definitely next season’s key word—emblazoned as it is on a killer sweatsuit or two—it’s evened out by a British cowgirl thing and a backstory about sneaking out of parties to go sit by yourself in the woods.
You’ll see it in our slideshow: together those elements—on an urban/outdoor runway—make misery look like good company.
CLICK IN TO SEE THE RUNWAY SHOW AND GO BACKSTAGE
Where does a girl in ruffles, gingham and tulle go? Anywhere she wants to, of course.
Molly Goddard spring 2017; this collection will be online and in stores very soon.
Image by Portia Hunt.
SPACE designer Molly Goddard is one of the biggest names in London right now—in no small part because she’s helped define a look that’s part party girl, part everyday sport-romance, and part remembered fever dream from your very first ballet class. But the bottom line is that you can take anything from her spring collection, add sneakers and a T-shirt, and you’re good for a night of soccer matches, sushi rolls or late-night club tunes.
If you ever wanted to try any of the above in the designer’s hometown, now you can. Just let Molly and her boyfriend/business partner, Tom Shickle, tell you where to go.
CLICK IN FOR MOLLY’S LIST
It’s hard to get Daniel Corrigan and Chelsea Hansford, the creative heads behind the luxurious, wearable lifestyle brand Simon Miller, to say much about their friendship and how they balance or juggle their his-and-hers points of view for collections that are made for both men and women. What they will tell you, however, is that each of them has a four-legged best friend, and each will report that these four-legged friends run their lives.
When you and your friend/design partner both really, really love your dogs, you include them in your fall 2017 collection.
Ollie and Marcell, a Shar-Pei mutt and a Valley Bulldog respectively, are so much in charge of their Simon Miller humans that a number of this season’s styles are based on fabric printed with a found vintage stamp that just happens to bear a striking resemblance to both canines. Daniel and Chelsea showed us the pieces, and more, when we stopped by the studio where they were camping out before their Saturday-evening show.
GO WHERE WE GO, SEE WHAT WE SEE
“I think we have broken loose of the stereotype that we have to have matching first lobe piercings and nothing else,” SPACE jewelry designer Maria Tash told us—and hooray to that. “People now treat their multiple piercings as autonomous vehicles for styling—experimenting with asymmetry can be liberating.”
Jewelry designer Maria Tash, courtesy Maria Tash
There’s every chance you agree with the idea, although actually doing it can sometimes be intimidating. No more, however, because now we’ve got the inside scoop and the best style secrets from New York City’s preeminent piercing pro—including where FKA Twigs’s new piercing is.
MORE ON LOBES, STUDS AND RINGS
Paris and Milan have the history, London has the soul, New York has the energy—but when it comes to Fashion cities, Tokyo has … well, Tokyo has it all and then some. Perhaps lesser known, less hyped and less documented, Tokyo Fashion Week uses that in its favor too. There’s a sense of no-rules adventure, faraway intrigue and nothing-else-like-it style in Tokyo, and our SPACE team loves it there.
“Me after a long day at the onsen. Tough job, but someone’s got to do it.”
All images courtesy Kara designer Sarah Law
So does Kara handbag designer Sarah Law. While Olivia and Raul are there twice a year (including right about now) to check in with members of the venerated family of Comme des Garçons, Sarah travels to Tokyo whenever she can, and she was more than happy to share a few of her favorite spots with us—including the best (worst?) place to get your fortune told.
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The ACNE Studios showroom and its staff are renowned in the industry for the café-like atmosphere and comfortable, chic hospitality. They serve brilliant food to brilliant buyers and there’s so much airy, open space. It’s the perfect place to crunch numbers, but it couldn’t be less convenient in terms of the rest of the city.
All images by Jessa Carter
Getting up to the 18th arrondissement takes considerable time and effort. When you’re there, however, a whole new side of Paris opens up. The area encompasses the smaller neighborhood of Goutte d’Or, or Little Africa, and on Wednesdays and Sundays the Marché Barbès makes an outdoor emporium of goods from Algeria, Egypt, Libya, Morocco, Sudan and other places. The whole area, including the sights and sounds of the Rue Marx Dormoy’s grocery stores and restaurants, felt particularly relevant when we visited the showroom on Tuesday because of the inspiration behind creative director Jonny Johansson’s spring collection.
CLICK IN TO SEE THE NEIGHBORHOOD AND THE COLLECTION UP CLOSE
To say it was nice timing is sort of an understatement. London-based Mira Mikati shared her spring collection on Tuesday; for some, if not most, it was the last day of Paris Fashion Week. Which means it was the last day of a month-long whirlwind of Fashion Weeks around the world.
Which means everyone was really, really tired.
All images by Jessa Carter
But not once they saw her carefree, upbeat and inspiring presentation. You can’t leave a Mira Mikati event—or wear a piece from her collections—without feeling a brighter bounce in your step, without feeling younger, fresher and more ready for whatever it is that comes next.
GET CHEERED UP RIGHT NOW
Undercover founder and creative head Jun Takahashi is good with a theme. Who can forget last year’s Rock and Roll Circus or the current season’s Snow White vibe? Spring 2017 has a musical note too—but this time there’s a ’60s-angled Jazz Age groove paired with distinct and playful throwbacks to the 1920s.
All Images by Jessa Carter
At the show last Saturday, Miles Davis and the Bill Evans Trio poured out of the speakers and got splashed onto digital prints on long skirts, silk scarves and more. When Olivia and her team got into the showroom on Tuesday, however, they interpreted the pieces in such a way that these looks are now ready to go from a cocktail party screening of The Great Gatsby to a live, laid-back trip-hop recital with piano accompaniment.
Or they could, anyway, if that’s the kind of Sunday double feature you’d be into.
SEE NEXT SPRING’S SPACE LOOKS NOW
It’s Saturday evening on a quiet street along the Seine, and inside the grand old Haussmann-era flat where we’ve been asked to find Australia-based designer Kym Ellery and her team, “24 Hour Party People” by the Happy Mondays is charging through the speakers. The mood isn’t necessarily celebratory—it’s too early for that—but neither is the song’s, really. It’s the round-the-clock part that seems apt.
All images by Jessa Carter
This team has less than four days to finalize and style the collection, fit all the models and make sure every element of the runway presentation has as much amplified grandeur and glamorous grit as these clothes do.
FIND OUT HOW THEY GET IT DONE