Images by David Brandon Geeting
Speaking on the phone with new-to-Nordstrom designer Patrik Ervell about his personal history and design inspirations, we guessed he might talk about coming of age in the 1990s. His take on Seinfeld-esque jeans sort of gives him away as a child of that era.
We didn’t expect the native Northern Californian to go on about Britpop, British underground culture (“they invented all the forms”) and Brutalist architecture. Nor to reveal that he once worked at Nordstrom. But that’s an actual fact.
The clothes you should be wearing this fall from Ervell display a blend of austerity and flyness, with careful attention paid to sensory details. There is a distant Joy Division thing happening, the printed logo on a few shirts looks just like Jodeci’s, and everything is made to feel a certain way on your skin that’s hard to convey through the Internet.
Shop: Patrik Ervell
Read more about Patrik Ervell, including which Brutalist building he admires and visits frequently in New York City’s Chinatown.
While staring at color-changing leaves, we recommend zoning out to this trippy music mix created by Creatures of the Wind–one of the brands we sell in our new SPACE shop. That would be the new venture by our director of creative projects Olivia Kim, to showcase emerging and advanced designers.
SPACE is womenswear-only and we’re feeling it hard for inspiration and gifting.
The mix was used in Creatures of the Wind’s FW 15 runway show last February, where the collection (which we now sell) was inspired by American psychedelic rock.
Our writer Laura Cassidy was on the scene back then and remarked:
“…the soundtrack was appropriately heavy, droney, and fuzzed-out. Imagine Silver Apples’ ‘Seagreen Serenade’ into Captain Beefheart’s ‘Autumn’s Child,’ followed by ‘The Bulblight’ by Rod Freeman and ‘Paix’ by Catherine Ribiero.”
Sounds great except you don’t have to imagine it anymore. Here it is:
And did you know? Laura is back in effect right now at New York Fashion Week, breaking down 2016 collections. Follow along with her right here.
Shop: Creatures of the Wind
This just in: Menswear journalist and commentator extraordinaire Tim Blanks has found a new writing home, leaving Style.com and joining Business of Fashion.
We read everything Blanks writes and also heartily recommend following him on Instagram, where his bio still says he works at Style.com–and where his 15-second reviews of Fashion Week runway shows are crucial.
Read the full story of Blanks’ career transition here via The New York Times.
While mobbing around the city during New York Fashion Week: Men’s, we made a point to connect with Four Pins, the irreverent and tasteful NYC-based menswear blog. We check it daily.
News editor Skylar Bergl agreed to an interview right outside the entrance to #NYFWM, and we decided to sit in an Escalade we’d been granted use of by one of the Cadillac representatives hovering around. Much to our surprise, when we opened the Escalade door we found none other than Gabrielle Union staring us in the face.
She looked pretty irritated and said: “HEY.”
We apologized, closed the door and stepped into the correct Escalade ten feet away.
Anyway, here’s Bergl on the meaning of #NYFWM, the leap from being a tumblr fashion enthusiast to full-time style writer–and which articles he’s writing next.
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As music lovers we read everything written by Jon Caramanica, pop music critic at The New York Times for the past seven years. He always seems to take our own blurry ideas and focus them to a point we wish we had made. We’ve come to terms with it. He’s the smarter us.
Caramanica has also been writing the bi-monthly Critical Shopper column for the Times for the past five years and we love that, too. It’s different from his music writing. He shops various stores, critically and anonymously, and writes about his experience later using multiple literary techniques. Sometimes he writes on his phone in the dressing room.
We caught up with Caramanica during New York Fashion Week: Men’s over french fries at Katz’s Deli to talk about the Critical Shopper colum.
We also squeezed out of him insights on menswear and style writers you should be reading now (bookmarks list: updated), the changing influence of music on men’s style–and the aliveness or deadness of offense in fashion.
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Ladyfag, doing the most
Next time you want to throw the party to end all parties, consider making it disco-themed and getting the savior of New York nightlife Ladyfag to host.
That’s how Nordstrom Fashion Director Jeffrey Kalinksy celebrated 25 years of his Jeffrey boutiques, a milestone which occurred recently during New York Fashion Week: Men’s.
The party went down at Jeffrey’s Meatpacking District boutique and the scene centered around queen diva Ladyfag and Honey Dijon, who deejayed while models and fashion insiders danced to the sounds of disco and the clinking of Clicquot-filled flutes. There was much vogueing and merrymaking.
Jeffrey was kind enough to do a quick Q&A the morning after. See that + party pics below–and check out The New York Times’ review of the event here.
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Nordstrom Men’s Styling Manager Danny Mankin
Image via Style dot com
Our Men’s Fashion Office is wrapping its time in NYC for the inaugural New York Fashion Week: Men’s, heading home after a week of scoping spring/summer 2016 styles.
For #NYFWM, the award on our squad for incurring the most street-style photography goes to Men’s Styling Manager Danny Mankin–which, again, we’re not surprised. And the award for clarity in a hectic situation goes to Men’s Fashion Director Jorge Valls.
Jorge saw two main style thrusts #NYFWM: loose luxury and 1990s-inspired streetwear. You can safely say these will define the clothes you see in retailers next spring, or at least be heavy influences. Here he is talking about both.
#NYFWM: Two Big Ideas
Check out Jorge’s take on four different shows during #NYFWM and explanation of the two main types of events here. Check him talking about the economic power of the whole thing here. Fashion can be a baffler, but when Jorge explains it to us, we get it.
If New York Fashion Week: Men’s were a music festival, John Varvatos would have been the headliner. The American menswear designer went last and went big at #NYFWM, with a rockin’ runway show which people jostled to get into beforehand and fought during to take photos.
We meet Varvatos backstage to talk about the England-meets-SoCal inspiration behind his stripe-y spring/summer 2016 collection–a lot of it had to do with a guitar player whose name rhymes with Beef Pritchards–and why he forewent his regular runway show in Milan in favor of New York.
Shop: John Varvatos
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Behold, Billy Reid’s spring/summer 16 collection. Or most of it, anyway. The southern designer’s clothes contained some of our favorite footwear at #NYFWM, including shoes with their backs made to be heeled down. But who are we kidding, we loved the whole thing. The long jackets, loose fits, Cuban collars, hypnotic patterns, gardener-length bills on baseball hats–and especially that yellow coat above and the green vest at the end of this post.
Check out our backstage interview with Reid here, where we talked about his vision for this collection and which music he played in the studio while designing it.
Shop: Billy Reid
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It was a sweet scene off Canal Street for Zachary Prell’s first presentation of his career, this career being Prell’s second after he took a look around at all the dorky-dressing businessmen in his office one day, self included, and said: No more.
We caught up with the designer during his presentation surrounded by models who had been with him since his early campaigns.
Shop: Zachary Prell
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