Images by Shawn Brackbill
The most anticipated show at New York Fashion Week: Men’s was by Public School, the subtly avant garde brand designed by New York City natives Dao-Yi Chow (L) and Maxwell Osborne (R).
Their Autumn/Winter 2016 collection was fascinating and seemingly inspired (to us, anyway) by Cowboy Bebop and Kung Lao from Mortal Kombat. Our ace photographer friend Shawn Brackbill was on the scene and summed it up thusly:
“Public School’s show was off-site, unlike the rest of the shows, and it was almost off-putting until I realized what was going on. They were bringing the public into it. It was an inside/outside thing. They had these big windows so people outside on the sidewalk could see the styling, see all the models getting ready. Then the models would come out and actually walk in the street, walk around the block, and then go back inside where they did a more formal runway show. That’s where all the heavy-hitter people were, everyone on the official guestlist. Then each model came back outside for a finale lineup, on the street.”
See images from the show below (and see Brackbill’s full clip of #NYFWM photos here) along with a streamable soundtrack by Twin Shadow, who always scores Public School’s live events with experimental grooves.
Shop: Public School
This way for fashion in the streets
Images by Shawn Brackbill
The report from our man Shawn Brackbill, photographer extraordinaire, on the Todd Snyder show for Snyder’s Autumn/Winter 2016 collection at New York Fashion Week: Men’s:
“The music was The Smiths, ‘How Soon is Now,’ but an extended remix so the vocals came in really late. They had a lot of guys; a lot of looks. This show was one of those that felt like a bombardment of looks. The collection was expansive; lots of layers, lots of turtlenecks. It was beautiful and everything looked really wearable.”
Snyder, if he’s a new name to you, is one of the best American menswear designers working today, an Iowa-bred master of casual and business-casual looks with a vaguely collegiate aesthetic.
Check out Brackbill’s behind the scenes shots below (and all his #NYFWM stuff here), interspersed with our interview with the man himself, Mr. Todd Snyder.
Shop: Todd Snyder
This way for Todd Snyder images + Q&A
The second-ever installment of New York Fashion Week: Men’s is upon us, and one of the first presentations on the schedule is by Chapter–the Los Angeles/outer-space brand designed by Devin Carlson.
Chapter is showing its autumn/winter 2016 collection, seen in the image above and video below. We’re feeling it.
Which pieces do you think Nordstrom will buy?
Click to read about how Fashion Weeks are like glimpsing the future
Images courtesy Cottweiler
Specializing in abstracted tracksuits designed in England by Matthew Dainty and Ben Cottrell, Cottweiler is one of those underground brands you might be unconsciously familiar with, since it’s worn by famous musicians. If you ever thought FKA twigs looked cool on stage–and frankly it’s not even up for argument that she does–or wanted to dress like the grime emcee Skepta, Cottweiler is worth your attention.
We’re proud to announce Cottweiler is part of Heartbreakers II, our upcoming menswear-themed Pop-In Shop curated by VP of Creative Projects Olivia Kim. Launching in time for Valentine’s Day and running from February 12 through March 13, Heartbreakers II is all about evolving menswear.
Images below are from Cottweiler’s recent autumn/winter 2016 show at London Collections Men. That means the clothes are meant for two seasons from now, so none of them will be available for Heartbreakers II. Still, it’s worth getting into Cottweiler’s world for a second to get a feel for what we’ll be dealing with come February.
Click here to see more of Cottweiler’s wheaty aesthetic and asymmetrical designs.
The designer himself; images courtesy Xander Zhou
Fresh off the runway in London, consider these images a preview of sorts for Heartbreakers II, our upcoming menswear-themed Pop-In Shop curated by VP of Creative Projects Olivia Kim. Launching in time for Valentine’s Day and running from February 12 through March 13, Heartbreakers II is all about evolving menswear.
One of the featured designers in Heartbreakers II is Beijing-based Xander Zhou–who, fun fact, is also the fashion director at the Chinese version of The New York Times’ T Magazine.
Images below are from Zhou’s recent autumn/winter 2016 show at London Collections Men. That means the clothes are meant for two seasons from now, so none of them will be available for Heartbreakers II. Still, it’s worth getting into Zhou’s world for a second to get a feel for what we’ll be dealing with come February.
Click here to see Xander Zhou’s sartorial visions for modern men/knaves
Images by David Brandon Geeting
Speaking on the phone with new-to-Nordstrom designer Patrik Ervell about his personal history and design inspirations, we guessed he might talk about coming of age in the 1990s. His take on Seinfeld-esque jeans sort of gives him away as a child of that era.
We didn’t expect the native Northern Californian to go on about Britpop, British underground culture (“they invented all the forms”) and Brutalist architecture. Nor to reveal that he once worked at Nordstrom. But that’s an actual fact.
The clothes you should be wearing this fall from Ervell display a blend of austerity and flyness, with careful attention paid to sensory details. There is a distant Joy Division thing happening, the printed logo on a few shirts looks just like Jodeci’s, and everything is made to feel a certain way on your skin that’s hard to convey through the Internet.
Shop: Patrik Ervell
Read more about Patrik Ervell, including which Brutalist building he admires and visits frequently in New York City’s Chinatown.
While staring at color-changing leaves, we recommend zoning out to this trippy music mix created by Creatures of the Wind–one of the brands we sell in our new SPACE shop. That would be the new venture by our director of creative projects Olivia Kim, to showcase emerging and advanced designers.
SPACE is womenswear-only and we’re feeling it hard for inspiration and gifting.
The mix was used in Creatures of the Wind’s FW 15 runway show last February, where the collection (which we now sell) was inspired by American psychedelic rock.
Our writer Laura Cassidy was on the scene back then and remarked:
“…the soundtrack was appropriately heavy, droney, and fuzzed-out. Imagine Silver Apples’ ‘Seagreen Serenade’ into Captain Beefheart’s ‘Autumn’s Child,’ followed by ‘The Bulblight’ by Rod Freeman and ‘Paix’ by Catherine Ribiero.”
Sounds great except you don’t have to imagine it anymore. Here it is:
And did you know? Laura is back in effect right now at New York Fashion Week, breaking down 2016 collections. Follow along with her right here.
Shop: Creatures of the Wind
This just in: Menswear journalist and commentator extraordinaire Tim Blanks has found a new writing home, leaving Style.com and joining Business of Fashion.
We read everything Blanks writes and also heartily recommend following him on Instagram, where his bio still says he works at Style.com–and where his 15-second reviews of Fashion Week runway shows are crucial.
Read the full story of Blanks’ career transition here via The New York Times.
While mobbing around the city during New York Fashion Week: Men’s, we made a point to connect with Four Pins, the irreverent and tasteful NYC-based menswear blog. We check it daily.
News editor Skylar Bergl agreed to an interview right outside the entrance to #NYFWM, and we decided to sit in an Escalade we’d been granted use of by one of the Cadillac representatives hovering around. Much to our surprise, when we opened the Escalade door we found none other than Gabrielle Union staring us in the face.
She looked pretty irritated and said: “HEY.”
We apologized, closed the door and stepped into the correct Escalade ten feet away.
Anyway, here’s Bergl on the meaning of #NYFWM, the leap from being a tumblr fashion enthusiast to full-time style writer–and which articles he’s writing next.
As music lovers we read everything written by Jon Caramanica, pop music critic at The New York Times for the past seven years. He always seems to take our own blurry ideas and focus them to a point we wish we had made. We’ve come to terms with it. He’s the smarter us.
Caramanica has also been writing the bi-monthly Critical Shopper column for the Times for the past five years and we love that, too. It’s different from his music writing. He shops various stores, critically and anonymously, and writes about his experience later using multiple literary techniques. Sometimes he writes on his phone in the dressing room.
We caught up with Caramanica during New York Fashion Week: Men’s over french fries at Katz’s Deli to talk about the Critical Shopper colum.
We also squeezed out of him insights on menswear and style writers you should be reading now (bookmarks list: updated), the changing influence of music on men’s style–and the aliveness or deadness of offense in fashion.