Abstracted religious icons. Subversive stars and stripes. Angular flora and the now-pervasive snarling Rottweiler. By emblazoning instantly recognizable symbolism on everything from luxe T-shirts to tailored jackets, from his signature warrior kilt (don’t call it a skirt) to Kanye West’s and Jay-Z’s album art and stage wardrobe, Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci has achieved a rare feat: pledged allegiance from runway critics and cool kids alike. While the man named Designer of the Year by GQ scattered a few emblematic graphics throughout his new Fall ’13 collection, the most memorable moments were delivered through creative fabrications and silhouettes. Check out our favorites below, followed by a video of the complete show.
[Above: artwork from the show's invitation, by M/M Paris.]
Out-There Outerwear. Lapel-less suits and topcoats made a minimalist impression at the start of the show, but were soon displaced by experiments in sartorial armor like glazed tweed and primitively patchworked goalie gear. (Click images to enlarge.) Parkas worn as accessories at the waist were common throughout: an all-black evolution of Kurt Cobain’s cinched flannel shirts.
The Show. The cryptic vibe of the invite (up top) was carried through on the runway with séance-like candlelight and baroque classical music (which then gave way to an unapologetic break-up song).
The Details. Here’s a closer look at the elaborate jacket that looks like Frankenstein’s football pads…Sartorial looks so minimal that they lack lapels…A shackled twist on monkstraps…And argyle turned obscene.
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[Invitation design by M/M (Paris), via Givenchy's Facebook page. Runway photos by Marcus Tondo, via Style.com. Detail shots by Gianni Pucci, via Style.com. Backstage photos via Givenchy's Facebook page.]