For our latest collaboration with renowned men’s life and style blog Street Etiquette, we partnered with Topman to send SE founders Joshua Kissi and Travis Gumbs from New York City to England to explore the British brand’s roots. Now presenting our third installment of Travel Etiquette: London.
While we’re still teetering in the fog between fall and winter, a sturdy sportcoat can do double-duty as your 9-to-5 workhorse, as well as your top layer to and from the office—just flip the collar up and throw on a scarf and/or knit cap when you leave the building. Here are a few editor’s picks that will see you through ’til parka season:
1. Thrill of the Hunt. Peak lapels and a coat-like, full-button front set this sportcoat apart from the pack, while a timeless windowpane plaid grounds it firmly in menswear tradition.
Shop: Rag & Bone ‘St. Regis’ Sportcoat
2. Mid-Century Modern. If you read your GQs, you’re well-acquainted with the rise of “geezer style.” Here’s a nubby plaid your dad’s dad might have worn—in a trim fit that’s ready for 2014.
Shop: Vince Wool-Blend Blazer
3. Mixed Media. A literal remix of tailoring traditions, this patchwork of pinstripes and plaids is more than the sum of its parts. Wearing it is easy—just pair with simple solids.
Shop: Junya Watanabe Patchwork Blazer
SHOP ALL: SPORTCOATS & BLAZERS
Dressing for the Season, 101: Cold mornings call for warm clothes—and that goes for everything from your socks to your tie.
On a pristinely fogged-in dawn here at our Seattle HQ, these Yves Saint Laurent ties caught our eye immediately, for several reasons:
1. They’re sturdy. Cut from substantial wool blends, they’ll balance your boots and offset your scarf.
2. They’re sophisticated. Crafted in France and displaying classic patterns like houndstooth and herringbone, you’ll never feel like you’re wearing a bulky flannel shirt around your neck.
3. They’re timeless. Ranging from 2.5 to 3 inches across, they’re the ideal width—not too skinny, not too wide, perfect with anything from a three-piece suit to a slim shirt and dark jeans.
Pro Tip: As always, we recommend tying these on with a basic four-in-hand knot. The fabric is thick enough on its own; keep the slim lines of the rest of your kit consistent with an understated knot.
Last week, Men’s Shop Daily had the distinct pleasure of catching up with Marcus Wainwright (left) and David Neville, co-founders of Rag & Bone, at their in-store appearance at Nordstrom Bellevue Square, near our Seattle headquarters.
Below, the two British designers—who met in boarding school in England, before starting Rag & Bone more than ten years ago in New York—discuss their fashion baptism in rural Kentucky, smashing guitars, and style advice that every man should swear by.
[Shop: Rag & Bone Men's Sneakers]
MEN’S SHOP DAILY: Welcome to Seattle. Have you been out here before?
DAVID NEVILLE OF RAG & BONE: “We’ve been a few times, but only ever to see the people at Nordstrom. It’s worth the trip. It’s an amazing company.”
MSD: That’s great to hear—what makes you say that?
NEVILLE: “I think that when you look at the history, and the legacy of how it was started, and what it is now…I’ve actually read [Bruce Nordstrom's] book, Leave It Better than You Found It. The fact that it’s still run by the family, and the approach to customer service, and differentiating themselves as a store…The success that’s bred is kind of amazing. It’s 130 stores in America. I should be like a spokesperson.” [Laughs.]
[Shop: Rag & Bone 'St. Regis' Sportcoat]
MARCUS WAINWRIGHT OF RAG & BONE: “I’ve got a lot of his photography. I like photography—I collect [it] and like taking pictures myself. Part of it is just the subject matter—apart from the photographs themselves, the clothes are really cool, and very relevant to Rag & Bone. We do a lot of workwear, we do a lot of tailoring, and the August Sander pictures capture a lot of people working—and he captures them in a period where people were working in suits. If you look at the early pictures of rag-and-bone men, after the Second World War, they’re working day-to-day in tailored clothing. There’s no T-shirts, there’s no just shirt-and-jeans. And there’s a sort of beauty in that handmade clothing that’s been disheveled and rumpled and rained on and worked in.
“So the subject matter of the pictures is amazing. There’s a German aspect to it, which is pretty cool—it’s quite sort of different from the English stuff; it’s less sort of ‘dandy.’ There’s an amazing picture of a baker…and one in particular of a guy in a street in the most beautiful coat, which we made a sort of version of, which closed the show. It’s just great photography.”
[Shop: Rag & Bone Wallets]
MSD: Does Michael Pitt [the actor in Rag & Bone's fall campaign] have the best hair in Hollywood?
NEVILLE: “We were actually a little bit worried about his hair in a couple of the pictures—it just looks a little bit too sort of retro, kind of Johnny Cash, which wasn’t really the reference, you know. But he’s a cool dude.”
WAINWRIGHT: “He does have good hair.”
NEVILLE: “We had fun. He was awesome. He came to the shoot really sort of enthused, and there’s an amazing moment where he smashes his guitar in the middle of 6th Avenue. That was his idea, and it was fairly impromptu—it wasn’t staged or anything. It was cool content to just be able to create.”
MSD: When the two of you first decided to start a clothing company, you visited a legendary denim factory in Kentucky. What was that experience like, and what did you learn there?
WAINWRIGHT: “It was the birth of Rag & Bone in many ways. It was a very old denim factory in Tompkinsville, Kentucky. It had been a massive factory at one point, but everything had shifted—been bought or invested in by a Mexican company, and a lot of denim [production] had moved to Mexico. So it basically shut down most of it, and it was just sort of 60 people, as a sample room for the Mexican production—but it was the best sewers and pant-makers that they had.
“It was an amazing place with 50 years of knowledge about how to make proper jeans. It was an incredible place to go to, when you had no experience in fashion at all, and never really been to a factory to speak of, and you were sort of baptized into the fashion and sewing world by these women who were in their 60s, sewing jeans all day, proper salt-of-the-earth ladies from Kentucky—in a dry county, so there’s no booze. It’s rural Kentucky, and they take great pride in their work, and they’re just lovely people. They taught us the meaning of quality and authenticity and the value of that history of craftsmanship—and the value of that experience, and how easy it is for that to disappear.
“They were the last of 3,000. They shut down within two or three years of us working with them. The ladies who’d been sewing their whole lives went to work in the local outboard motor factory, or Walmart, or waiting tables. Never to sew again. The American-invented and American-owned skill of sewing jeans just disappeared from that factory forever, and it’s happened across this country. And that’s sad. So I think our company has a lot to thank that experience—to thank them—for what they taught us about the importance of maintaining that, and not just shipping everything to a factory that’s chosen based purely on price.”
[Shop: Rag & Bone Ties]
MSD: If you could give male readers one style tip for Fall 2013, what would it be?
NEVILLE: “Don’t try too hard. Do what feels right; what you feel comfortable in. Menswear should never really feel like you’re trying to make a fashion statement. I think that can go desperately wrong. You should just be wearing what you feel comfortable in—and what your wife tells you you should be wearing is maybe a good tip.” [Laughs.]
WAINWRIGHT: “Guys should take pride in their appearance. I think when guys go wrong it’s when they try too hard or they don’t try hard enough. And you get a guy who just doesn’t think about it, and buys a pair of ill-fitting, cheap jeans and a cheap shirt. There’s a lot of inherent beauty in clothes, and clothes can make you feel great, and I think clothes are worth investing in. It’s worth buying the perfect leather jacket, for example, because it’s something that will be with you forever. It may seem like a lot of money, but it’s worth it, and it makes you feel good. And I think it’s important that you take pride in your appearance.”
[Shop: Rag & Bone 'Officer' Boots]
MSD: What’s changed, since you founded Rag & Bone in 2002, in your approach to designing menswear?
WAINWRIGHT: “Not a lot. Menswear doesn’t change much anyway. We’ve been through periods of being more or less adventurous with men’s design, and we learned a lesson as men’s designers, quite quickly, that if you go too far out of the box, guys don’t get it. Girls are way braver—and way more willing to take a risk. You couldn’t get a guy into a white, leopard-print jacket, for example. But that looks cool on you [nodding to our female video producer in the room]. You’ve got to reference things that a guy is familiar with, whether he’s conscious of it, or subconsciously, something he’s seen in a movie, or seen his dad wear, or seen in photographs. That’s what menswear is really about: beautiful fabric, and detail, and making clothes that guys are familiar with—but at the same time, pushing it gently forward in terms of design, and the fashion part of it.”
MSD: After growing up in England, you’ve both lived and worked in New York for more than ten years. What do you appreciate about each place you’ve called home?
NEVILLE: “New York City is an amazing place. The energy of the city is intoxicating, and it’s very different to London in that regard. We thank New York for really giving us the platform to start our company—not just from a practical standpoint, but also from an entrepreneurial sort of enthusiasm, which I don’t think you find in many places in the world. We’ve been in New York a long time, and we feel sort of like adopted New Yorkers now, so that’s great. We miss London, miss our friends, miss the pubs…but I think both of us are very happy where we are, and don’t really have any intention of moving back.”
MSD: Do you visit London often?
NEVILLE: “We have a store in London now, which is exciting—and I think made our parents quite proud.”
— — —
In Their Own Words. Here’s a short clip of Rag & Bone founders Marcus Wainwright and David Neville, filmed before their personal appearance at Bellevue Square Nordstrom last week:
SHOP ALL: RAG & BONE
[Photos by Kirby Ellis. Interview by Justin Abbott. Video by Angela Sumner & Sean Dutton.
Special thanks to Marcus, David and the Rag & Bone team.]
Our study in Fall contrast continues with clean-cut prep, worn-in leather, streamlined stripes, and woodsy plaid from some of our favorite Designer Collections. Photographed at Kubota Garden, a 20-acre sanctum of lush pines nestled amongst the stark pavement of south Seattle. [See part 1 of this series.]
It takes a lot to engineer a truly new development in the field of menswear. (Before you make fun of Kanye West for wearing a skirt—talk to William Wallace.) That’s not to say the great minds in our industry are lacking new ideas—rather, they reap the benefits of centuries-worth of reference points, and innovation comes in the form of fit, fabrication, and re-thinking the ways we wear eternal classics.
For that reason, we’re pleased to bring you 10 Fall Essentials: a considered list of items every man should have in his arsenal this Fall—and that won’t let you down in the years to come. Ever.
Below, find three ways to wear our first cold-weather necessity: The Wool Overcoat.
1. Weekend Upgrade. An overcoat, of course, is essential for shielding your finest suits from wind and rain. But you can maximize its mileage by repurposing it off the clock, too. A hearty tweed is especially at home in the country, as much as it is uptown. Wear yours with white jeans (yes, after Labor Day) for a fresh perspective—and don’t be afraid to beat ‘em up. They are jeans, after all.
Billy Reid overcoat | Burberry Brit white jeans | Wallin & Bros. quilted vest
Johnston & Murphy chukka | Grayers henley | Shinola watch
2. Modular Office. A coat this streamlined will make you the sharpest-dressed guy in the elevator, no matter what office gear you layer underneath it—be it a suit or tweed sportcoat for a big meeting, or a shirt/sweater combo with dark selvedge jeans for your standard daily grind. Add impeccably detailed, slush-proof boots and a laptop-friendly bag, and you’re ready for any commute.
Theory overcoat | Naked & Famous selvedge jeans | J. Press York Street shirt
Lottusse boot | Grayers merino wool sweater | Jack Spade briefcase
3. Boozy Brunch. Last night was wild. The fall sky is brisk and far too bright. You’re starving. Drag your significant other out of bed, locate some alarmingly comfortable yet intelligently designed clothes, and throw your best overcoat on top. The concept is called high/low, and it’s a smart way to elevate a casual occasion—even when you’re not at your Sunday best.
The Kooples overcoat | Stetson beanie | Zanerobe ‘Slapshot’ pants
New Balance sneaker | Shipley & Halmos long-sleeve T-shirt | Shwood sunglasses
SHOP ALL 1o FALL ESSENTIALS
What happens when our Men’s Shop video team goes to Las Vegas during Market Week? They run into Pharrell. They get down to brass tacks with up-and-coming design heroes. And they make some movie magic.
Above is one of four new videos we shot while traversing the vendor booths in Vegas during three furious days of menswear trade shows. Press play, learn about the elbow grease that goes into some of today’s best gear, and shop our Editor’s Picks from a few of the brands we interviewed. (Notice a theme? Fall is officially here.)
Watch: More Videos in this Series