The most anticipated show at New York Fashion Week: Men’s was by Public School, the subtly avant garde brand designed by New York City natives Dao-Yi Chow (L) and Maxwell Osborne (R).
Their Autumn/Winter 2016 collection was fascinating and seemingly inspired (to us, anyway) by Cowboy Bebop and Kung Lao from Mortal Kombat. Our ace photographer friend Shawn Brackbill was on the scene and summed it up thusly:
“Public School’s show was off-site, unlike the rest of the shows, and it was almost off-putting until I realized what was going on. They were bringing the public into it. It was an inside/outside thing. They had these big windows so people outside on the sidewalk could see the styling, see all the models getting ready. Then the models would come out and actually walk in the street, walk around the block, and then go back inside where they did a more formal runway show. That’s where all the heavy-hitter people were, everyone on the official guestlist. Then each model came back outside for a finale lineup, on the street.”
See images from the show below (and see Brackbill’s full clip of #NYFWM photos here) along with a streamable soundtrack by Twin Shadow, who always scores Public School’s live events with experimental grooves.
Specializing in abstracted tracksuits designed in England by Matthew Dainty and Ben Cottrell, Cottweiler is one of those underground brands you might be unconsciously familiar with, since it’s worn by famous musicians. If you ever thought FKA twigs looked cool on stage–and frankly it’s not even up for argument that she does–or wanted to dress like the grime emcee Skepta, Cottweiler is worth your attention.
We’re proud to announce Cottweiler is part of Heartbreakers II, our upcoming menswear-themed Pop-In Shop curated by VP of Creative Projects Olivia Kim. Launching in time for Valentine’s Day and running from February 12 through March 13, Heartbreakers II is all about evolving menswear.
Images below are from Cottweiler’s recent autumn/winter 2016 show at London Collections Men. That means the clothes are meant for two seasons from now, so none of them will be available for Heartbreakers II. Still, it’s worth getting into Cottweiler’s world for a second to get a feel for what we’ll be dealing with come February.
Fresh off the runway in London, consider these images a preview of sorts for Heartbreakers II, our upcoming menswear-themed Pop-In Shop curated by VP of Creative Projects Olivia Kim. Launching in time for Valentine’s Day and running from February 12 through March 13, Heartbreakers II is all about evolving menswear.
One of the featured designers in Heartbreakers II is Beijing-based Xander Zhou–who, fun fact, is also the fashion director at the Chinese version of The New York Times’ T Magazine.
Images below are from Zhou’s recent autumn/winter 2016 show at London Collections Men. That means the clothes are meant for two seasons from now, so none of them will be available for Heartbreakers II. Still, it’s worth getting into Zhou’s world for a second to get a feel for what we’ll be dealing with come February.
Our Men’s Fashion Office is wrapping its time in NYC for the inaugural New York Fashion Week: Men’s, heading home after a week of scoping spring/summer 2016 styles.
For #NYFWM, the award on our squad for incurring the most street-style photography goes to Men’s Styling Manager Danny Mankin–which, again, we’re not surprised. And the award for clarity in a hectic situation goes to Men’s Fashion Director Jorge Valls.
Jorge saw two main style thrusts #NYFWM: loose luxury and 1990s-inspired streetwear. You can safely say these will define the clothes you see in retailers next spring, or at least be heavy influences. Here he is talking about both.
#NYFWM: Two Big Ideas
Check out Jorge’s take on four different shows during #NYFWM and explanation of the two main types of events here. Check him talking about the economic power of the whole thing here. Fashion can be a baffler, but when Jorge explains it to us, we get it.
If New York Fashion Week: Men’s were a music festival, John Varvatos would have been the headliner. The American menswear designer went last and went big at #NYFWM, with a rockin’ runway show which people jostled to get into beforehand and fought during to take photos.
We meet Varvatos backstage to talk about the England-meets-SoCal inspiration behind his stripe-y spring/summer 2016 collection–a lot of it had to do with a guitar player whose name rhymes with Beef Pritchards–and why he forewent his regular runway show in Milan in favor of New York.
Behold, Billy Reid’s spring/summer 16 collection. Or most of it, anyway. The southern designer’s clothes contained some of our favorite footwear at #NYFWM, including shoes with their backs made to be heeled down. But who are we kidding, we loved the whole thing. The long jackets, loose fits, Cuban collars, hypnotic patterns, gardener-length bills on baseball hats–and especially that yellow coat above and the green vest at the end of this post.
Check out our backstage interview with Reid here, where we talked about his vision for this collection and which music he played in the studio while designing it.
Billy Reid was one of the designers we looked forward to meeting most at #NYFWM, whose stuff we love (both his excellent every day clothes and subtly radical runway collections) and whose whole perspective is on-point, culturally and socially.
Click here for images of Reid’s spring/summer 2016 collection.
We caught up with the designer backstage before his runway show at David Zwirner Gallery in Chelsea. He told us all about his collection and which music he listened to while designing it–and opened up about his special connection to Charleston, SC, and being moved to take action after the tragic church shooting there.
It was a sweet scene off Canal Street for Zachary Prell’s first presentation of his career, this career being Prell’s second after he took a look around at all the dorky-dressing businessmen in his office one day, self included, and said: No more.
We caught up with the designer during his presentation surrounded by models who had been with him since his early campaigns.
Our Men’s Fashion Office is all up in the mix at New York Fashion Week: Men’s, and the most photographed member of the team by far is Danny Mankin, Men’s Styling Manager. Which does not surprise us. Everyone’s looking good here, but that excellent fit you see above is pretty much a regular Tuesday for Danny.
Being bombarded with style is exciting but can overwhelm, so to get our minds right, we’ve been enjoying post-show breakdowns with our Men’s Fashion Director Jorge Valls.
Here’s Jorge on the difference between runway shows and designer presentations (#NYFWM has both) and the events & spring/summer 2016 collections by Suit Supply, rag + bone, Todd Snyder and Michael Bastian.