The most anticipated show at New York Fashion Week: Men’s was by Public School, the subtly avant garde brand designed by New York City natives Dao-Yi Chow (L) and Maxwell Osborne (R).
Their Autumn/Winter 2016 collection was fascinating and seemingly inspired (to us, anyway) by Cowboy Bebop and Kung Lao from Mortal Kombat. Our ace photographer friend Shawn Brackbill was on the scene and summed it up thusly:
“Public School’s show was off-site, unlike the rest of the shows, and it was almost off-putting until I realized what was going on. They were bringing the public into it. It was an inside/outside thing. They had these big windows so people outside on the sidewalk could see the styling, see all the models getting ready. Then the models would come out and actually walk in the street, walk around the block, and then go back inside where they did a more formal runway show. That’s where all the heavy-hitter people were, everyone on the official guestlist. Then each model came back outside for a finale lineup, on the street.”
See images from the show below (and see Brackbill’s full clip of #NYFWM photos here) along with a streamable soundtrack by Twin Shadow, who always scores Public School’s live events with experimental grooves.
The report from our man Shawn Brackbill, photographer extraordinaire, on the Todd Snyder show for Snyder’s Autumn/Winter 2016 collection at New York Fashion Week: Men’s:
“The music was The Smiths, ‘How Soon is Now,’ but an extended remix so the vocals came in really late. They had a lot of guys; a lot of looks. This show was one of those that felt like a bombardment of looks. The collection was expansive; lots of layers, lots of turtlenecks. It was beautiful and everything looked really wearable.”
Snyder, if he’s a new name to you, is one of the best American menswear designers working today, an Iowa-bred master of casual and business-casual looks with a vaguely collegiate aesthetic.
Check out Brackbill’s behind the scenes shots below (and all his #NYFWM stuff here), interspersed with our interview with the man himself, Mr. Todd Snyder.
News editor Skylar Bergl agreed to an interview right outside the entrance to #NYFWM, and we decided to sit in an Escalade we’d been granted use of by one of the Cadillac representatives hovering around. Much to our surprise, when we opened the Escalade door we found none other than Gabrielle Union staring us in the face.
She looked pretty irritated and said: “HEY.”
We apologized, closed the door and stepped into the correct Escalade ten feet away.
Anyway, here’s Bergl on the meaning of #NYFWM, the leap from being a tumblr fashion enthusiast to full-time style writer–and which articles he’s writing next.
As music lovers we read everything written by Jon Caramanica, pop music critic at The New York Times for the past seven years. He always seems to take our own blurry ideas and focus them to a point we wish we had made. We’ve come to terms with it. He’s the smarter us.
Caramanica has also been writing the bi-monthly Critical Shopper column for the Times for the past five years and we love that, too. It’s different from his music writing. He shops various stores, critically andanonymously, and writes about his experience later using multiple literary techniques. Sometimes he writes on his phone in the dressing room.
We also squeezed out of him insights on menswear and style writers you should be reading now (bookmarks list: updated), the changing influence of music on men’s style–and the aliveness or deadness of offense in fashion.
Meet Tim Coppens (last name rhymes with opens), the talented designer who came up through the ranks at Ralph Lauren and adidas and is about to bring his CFDA award-nominated style to Nordstrom. You could call his look athleisure but you’d be better with athluxury.
Tim Coppens will be shoppable mid-August on our website, and his wares sold in physical form exclusively at our Seattle headquarters and our new Canadian store in Vancouver, B.C.
We caught up with Coppens in his NYC showroom the day after his #NYFWM runway show to get to know him better through his spring/summer 2016 collection, his most personal work to date.
The collection is a memory-dive into his formative years skateboarding around New York City with his European friends in the 1990s, listening to hip-hop, watching Kids and VHS tapes of 411 Video Magazine. That crinkly nylon jacket above comes from Method Man. His red leather pullover is a Patagonia hijack. The magic mushrooms on his varsity jackets come from Tom Penny, the reclusive skater with the psychedelic public image.
Basically, Coppens dream of the ‘90s represents a magic part of his life when he hung with a tribe and followed his instincts, and which changed him forever.
That’s how Nordstrom Fashion Director Jeffrey Kalinksy celebrated 25 years of his Jeffrey boutiques, a milestone which occurred recently during New York Fashion Week: Men’s.
The party went down at Jeffrey’s Meatpacking District boutique and the scene centered around queen diva Ladyfag and Honey Dijon, who deejayed while models and fashion insiders danced to the sounds of disco and the clinking of Clicquot-filled flutes. There was much vogueing and merrymaking.
Jeffrey was kind enough to do a quick Q&A the morning after. See that + party pics below–and check out The New York Times’ review of the event here.
Our Men’s Fashion Office is wrapping its time in NYC for the inaugural New York Fashion Week: Men’s, heading home after a week of scoping spring/summer 2016 styles.
For #NYFWM, the award on our squad for incurring the most street-style photography goes to Men’s Styling Manager Danny Mankin–which, again, we’re not surprised. And the award for clarity in a hectic situation goes to Men’s Fashion Director Jorge Valls.
Jorge saw two main style thrusts #NYFWM: loose luxury and 1990s-inspired streetwear. You can safely say these will define the clothes you see in retailers next spring, or at least be heavy influences. Here he is talking about both.
#NYFWM: Two Big Ideas
Check out Jorge’s take on four different shows during #NYFWM and explanation of the two main types of events here. Check him talking about the economic power of the whole thing here. Fashion can be a baffler, but when Jorge explains it to us, we get it.
If New York Fashion Week: Men’s were a music festival, John Varvatos would have been the headliner. The American menswear designer went last and went big at #NYFWM, with a rockin’ runway show which people jostled to get into beforehand and fought during to take photos.
We meet Varvatos backstage to talk about the England-meets-SoCal inspiration behind his stripe-y spring/summer 2016 collection–a lot of it had to do with a guitar player whose name rhymes with Beef Pritchards–and why he forewent his regular runway show in Milan in favor of New York.
Behold, Billy Reid’s spring/summer 16 collection. Or most of it, anyway. The southern designer’s clothes contained some of our favorite footwear at #NYFWM, including shoes with their backs made to be heeled down. But who are we kidding, we loved the whole thing. The long jackets, loose fits, Cuban collars, hypnotic patterns, gardener-length bills on baseball hats–and especially that yellow coat above and the green vest at the end of this post.
Check out our backstage interview with Reid here, where we talked about his vision for this collection and which music he played in the studio while designing it.