It’s not a Public School runway show without a soundtrack by Twin Shadow, aka George Lewis Jr. He’s done them all going back to 2012, becoming an essential piece of the New York City brand along the way.
For the show that just occurred at New York Fashion Week—and which our Senior Writer Laura Cassidy attended and covered excellently—that music takes the form of an original 9-minute dance mix.
Most Twin Shadow music is pop rock. This is a bunch of drums and squeezes of chipmunk soul. It’s a change of pace and it’s great. ’Nuff said.
Shop: Public School
Nordstrom Men’s Styling Manager Danny Mankin
Image via Style dot com
Our Men’s Fashion Office is wrapping its time in NYC for the inaugural New York Fashion Week: Men’s, heading home after a week of scoping spring/summer 2016 styles.
For #NYFWM, the award on our squad for incurring the most street-style photography goes to Men’s Styling Manager Danny Mankin–which, again, we’re not surprised. And the award for clarity in a hectic situation goes to Men’s Fashion Director Jorge Valls.
Jorge saw two main style thrusts #NYFWM: loose luxury and 1990s-inspired streetwear. You can safely say these will define the clothes you see in retailers next spring, or at least be heavy influences. Here he is talking about both.
#NYFWM: Two Big Ideas
Check out Jorge’s take on four different shows during #NYFWM and explanation of the two main types of events here. Check him talking about the economic power of the whole thing here. Fashion can be a baffler, but when Jorge explains it to us, we get it.
It was leather sandals and “casual luxury” for Todd Snyder at New York Fashion Week: Men’s, with the designer’s spring/summer 2016 runway collection set to a steel drum soundtrack of Jamie xx, Popcaan and Young Thug. Being in the building felt like going on vacation to a blue beach with a cold drink.
We spoke with Snyder backstage about the Italian island that moved him to design the collection, translating certain sensibilities from womenswear to menswear and why this first-ever #NYFWM was necessary.
And ICYMI: The New York Times ran a great feature on Snyder last week.
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New York brand Public School won the CFDA award for Menswear Designer of the Year in 2014, and since then designers Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow have seen their star explode into a billion suns, gaining popularity for their progressive yet supremely wearable sportswear. Their history as designers for Sean John now seems ancient, and their presentation at #NYFWM was hotly anticipated. It did not disappoint.
Models included stars: style icon Nick Wooster, actor/seller of fine things Waris Ahluwalia (scroll to the end of this post) and musician Twin Shadow, who scored the event with heavy drums and snippets of Gil Scott-Heron. The room was mobbed at 10:30 a.m. and blew up an hour later when fashion/basketball star Dwyane Wade arrived with Gabrielle Union. After that it was a bit nuts; Joe Jonas showed up, other NBA players, a million photographers with blinding flashes.
As the spring/summer 2016 collection hung on models situated in police lineups, each was called forward individually by the voice of God, or maybe a correctional officer through unseen speakers. The impression was very Usual Suspects. Key components were beefier versions of Public School’s iconic, Jordans-meets-brogues sneakers and new baseball hats with metal fasteners on cloth straps in the back.
See more images from the show and backstage below, and click here for an interview with Chow and here for an interview with Twin Shadow.
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New York Fashion Week: Men’s began with a set of presentations by brands at Industria Superstudios in the Meatpacking District, one of which sounded like it was happening underwater.
Chapter, the Los Angeles-based label with an otherworldly and somewhat grim aesthetic, brought free-form industrial bass to the building courtesy The Floor, a duo consisting of Minimal Wave Records boss Veronica Vasicka and a man known only as Regis.
It was a good soundtrack for designer Devin Carlson’s spring/summer 2016 collection, which channeled dark vibes through conceptual clothing you could actually see yourself wearing.
We caught up with Carlson in the hallway during the presentation and talked about his inspiration for “Displacement” (the name of the collection), his impressions of #NYFWM and his early fashion experiments at Alta Loma High School.
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Image by Dario Calrese
Since it’s brand-new and fascinating to us, we asked our Men’s Fashion Director Jorge Valls for a primer about New York Fashion Week: Men’s–or #NYFWM if you’re hashtagging. He gave us solid notes over a jazzy soundtrack.
Now that we’re out here in New York to investigate, we asked Steven Kolb, CEO of the CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America) to go further in depth about this “week,” which lasts four days on the calendar from July 13-16.
What is this thing? Specifically, what does it mean in the big picture of menswear that a standalone men’s fashion week is happening on American soil for the first time ever?
Kolb put #NYFWM in the context of an increasing flow of capital, since menswear is booming business in the U.S. He has an interesting analysis of the cultural swirl around the consumer ultimately buying all this menswear in 2015, and from the designers’ standpoint, Kolb sees justice: American menswear designers are being recognized as equally talented as the predominantly European designers who show at men’s fashion weeks in London, Milan, Florence and Paris.
Here’s Kolb talking about all that, plus identifying one up-and-coming brand to watch, naming which legends deserve props–and arguing whether or not fashion is art.
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When I asked Kent Worthington to let me take a look inside his NYFW gear bag and tell me how he gets kitted out to support our Women’s team with their exclusive backstage reports, I wasn’t expecting him to say this: “I like to build a little shrine in my hotel room using some spiritual earth elements to ground, support and bring me energy during the week.”
Naturally, I needed to know more.
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Fashion Week: where killer menswear, a sartorial shenanigan or two, and throngs of uncannily photogenic women are par for the course.
Regarding the latter, keep reading to see our favorite female NYFW attendees (as spotted on our sister blog, The Thread)—women whose beauty, poise and personal style are rivaled only by their talent and intelligence as photographers, models, buyers and editors.
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Billy Reid marked the final stop on our itinerary of men’s shows at New York Fashion Week this season—and we couldn’t have asked for a more immaculate style spectacle to cap things off.
From the Alabama native’s ruggedly luxurious clothes to the jaw-dropping historical venue, woozy live-music soundtrack, and bourbon drinks served on silver platters upon the show’s conclusion, the evening coalesced into a full immersion in the Billy Reid world. We were on-site and front-row with photographer Faith Silva. Keep reading to see a full gallery of sublime images and video of the show.
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The next stop on our New York Fashion Week coverage is a double-take-inducing lineup from LA brand Band of Outsiders—true to form in its winking sense of wit, signature shrunken tailoring, and luxe-meets-laidback wearability.
We were there on the scene (and behind the scenes) at Sunday morning’s show. Keep reading to see our full photo journal from Band of Outsiders Fall/Winter ’14.
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