News editor Skylar Bergl agreed to an interview right outside the entrance to #NYFWM, and we decided to sit in an Escalade we’d been granted use of by one of the Cadillac representatives hovering around. Much to our surprise, when we opened the Escalade door we found none other than Gabrielle Union staring us in the face.
She looked pretty irritated and said: “HEY.”
We apologized, closed the door and stepped into the correct Escalade ten feet away.
Anyway, here’s Bergl on the meaning of #NYFWM, the leap from being a tumblr fashion enthusiast to full-time style writer–and which articles he’s writing next.
As music lovers we read everything written by Jon Caramanica, pop music critic at The New York Times for the past seven years. He always seems to take our own blurry ideas and focus them to a point we wish we had made. We’ve come to terms with it. He’s the smarter us.
Caramanica has also been writing the bi-monthly Critical Shopper column for the Times for the past five years and we love that, too. It’s different from his music writing. He shops various stores, critically andanonymously, and writes about his experience later using multiple literary techniques. Sometimes he writes on his phone in the dressing room.
We also squeezed out of him insights on menswear and style writers you should be reading now (bookmarks list: updated), the changing influence of music on men’s style–and the aliveness or deadness of offense in fashion.
Meet Tim Coppens (last name rhymes with opens), the talented designer who came up through the ranks at Ralph Lauren and adidas and is about to bring his CFDA award-nominated style to Nordstrom. You could call his look athleisure but you’d be better with athluxury.
Tim Coppens will be shoppable mid-August on our website, and his wares sold in physical form exclusively at our Seattle headquarters and our new Canadian store in Vancouver, B.C.
We caught up with Coppens in his NYC showroom the day after his #NYFWM runway show to get to know him better through his spring/summer 2016 collection, his most personal work to date.
The collection is a memory-dive into his formative years skateboarding around New York City with his European friends in the 1990s, listening to hip-hop, watching Kids and VHS tapes of 411 Video Magazine. That crinkly nylon jacket above comes from Method Man. His red leather pullover is a Patagonia hijack. The magic mushrooms on his varsity jackets come from Tom Penny, the reclusive skater with the psychedelic public image.
Basically, Coppens dream of the ‘90s represents a magic part of his life when he hung with a tribe and followed his instincts, and which changed him forever.
That’s how Nordstrom Fashion Director Jeffrey Kalinksy celebrated 25 years of his Jeffrey boutiques, a milestone which occurred recently during New York Fashion Week: Men’s.
The party went down at Jeffrey’s Meatpacking District boutique and the scene centered around queen diva Ladyfag and Honey Dijon, who deejayed while models and fashion insiders danced to the sounds of disco and the clinking of Clicquot-filled flutes. There was much vogueing and merrymaking.
Jeffrey was kind enough to do a quick Q&A the morning after. See that + party pics below–and check out The New York Times’ review of the event here.
Our Men’s Fashion Office is wrapping its time in NYC for the inaugural New York Fashion Week: Men’s, heading home after a week of scoping spring/summer 2016 styles.
For #NYFWM, the award on our squad for incurring the most street-style photography goes to Men’s Styling Manager Danny Mankin–which, again, we’re not surprised. And the award for clarity in a hectic situation goes to Men’s Fashion Director Jorge Valls.
Jorge saw two main style thrusts #NYFWM: loose luxury and 1990s-inspired streetwear. You can safely say these will define the clothes you see in retailers next spring, or at least be heavy influences. Here he is talking about both.
#NYFWM: Two Big Ideas
Check out Jorge’s take on four different shows during #NYFWM and explanation of the two main types of events here. Check him talking about the economic power of the whole thing here. Fashion can be a baffler, but when Jorge explains it to us, we get it.
If New York Fashion Week: Men’s were a music festival, John Varvatos would have been the headliner. The American menswear designer went last and went big at #NYFWM, with a rockin’ runway show which people jostled to get into beforehand and fought during to take photos.
We meet Varvatos backstage to talk about the England-meets-SoCal inspiration behind his stripe-y spring/summer 2016 collection–a lot of it had to do with a guitar player whose name rhymes with Beef Pritchards–and why he forewent his regular runway show in Milan in favor of New York.
Behold, Billy Reid’s spring/summer 16 collection. Or most of it, anyway. The southern designer’s clothes contained some of our favorite footwear at #NYFWM, including shoes with their backs made to be heeled down. But who are we kidding, we loved the whole thing. The long jackets, loose fits, Cuban collars, hypnotic patterns, gardener-length bills on baseball hats–and especially that yellow coat above and the green vest at the end of this post.
Check out our backstage interview with Reid here, where we talked about his vision for this collection and which music he played in the studio while designing it.
Billy Reid was one of the designers we looked forward to meeting most at #NYFWM, whose stuff we love (both his excellent every day clothes and subtly radical runway collections) and whose whole perspective is on-point, culturally and socially.
Click here for images of Reid’s spring/summer 2016 collection.
We caught up with the designer backstage before his runway show at David Zwirner Gallery in Chelsea. He told us all about his collection and which music he listened to while designing it–and opened up about his special connection to Charleston, SC, and being moved to take action after the tragic church shooting there.
It was a sweet scene off Canal Street for Zachary Prell’s first presentation of his career, this career being Prell’s second after he took a look around at all the dorky-dressing businessmen in his office one day, self included, and said: No more.
We caught up with the designer during his presentation surrounded by models who had been with him since his early campaigns.
Our Men’s Fashion Office is all up in the mix at New York Fashion Week: Men’s, and the most photographed member of the team by far is Danny Mankin, Men’s Styling Manager. Which does not surprise us. Everyone’s looking good here, but that excellent fit you see above is pretty much a regular Tuesday for Danny.
Being bombarded with style is exciting but can overwhelm, so to get our minds right, we’ve been enjoying post-show breakdowns with our Men’s Fashion Director Jorge Valls.
Here’s Jorge on the difference between runway shows and designer presentations (#NYFWM has both) and the events & spring/summer 2016 collections by Suit Supply, rag + bone, Todd Snyder and Michael Bastian.