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Selvedge

September 24, 2012

GQ Selects: October Look #3

Turn an octogenarian-inspired sweater into a prep-meets-greaser look that’s polished enough for most offices—with tips from Jim Moore of GQ:

 


1. Original Penguin Cardigan. “If you saw our September issue, you know we are loving the ‘geezer style’ look that takes icons of old-man fashion and makes them young again. This cardigan is a perfect example. The two-tone trim and knit check pattern is a throwback to vintage style, while the fit has been updated and slimmed, making it a truly modern piece of knitwear with character.”
—Jim Moore, GQ Creative Director
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2. David Hart Harris-Tweed Herringbone Tie. “Tweed is, without question, the fabric of Fall 2012. We love it for suits, sportcoats, pants, driving caps, and even accessories like David Hart’s herringbone tie; of course, we wouldn’t advise wearing them all together. Harris tweed is a hearty fabric with some heft to it, so Hart has smartly cut his tie on the slim side, avoiding the added bulk wider ones create. The great thing about this tie is that in addition to being so spot-on for the season, the neutral gray color will pair well with just about any shirt already hanging in your closet.”
—Jim Moore, GQ Creative Director 
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3. A.P.C. ‘New Standard’ Selvedge Slim-Straight Leg Jeans. “All the A.P.C. fits are the benchmark when it comes to selvedge denim. The brand’s ‘New Standard’ is A.P.C.’s original model, cut with a straight leg, and crafted in their signature rigid denim that breaks in amazingly over time. These look best with flipped-up cuffs that showcase the selvedge stripe, adding an air of ’50s rebel cool to any outfit.
—Jim Moore, GQ Creative Director

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4. Converse ‘Jack Purcell’ Sneaker. “The Jack Purcell sneaker has been a go-to style for over 75 years, and just proves that great design never goes out of fashion. The sneaker’s silhouette is simple in the best way possible, meaning these look as good with beat-up jeans as they do with gray flannel pants. The contrast between the black canvas and white rubber gives the whole shoe a graphic, visual punch, accented by the signature ‘smile’ toe front—and, like any canvas-bodied sneaker, these will only get better with more wear and tear.
—Jim Moore, GQ Creative Director

(shop this item)
 
 

Each month, the editors of GQ, in collaboration with Nordstrom Men’s Fashion Director Tommy Fazio and the Men’s Shop, will select key items from the pages of GQ to feature right here on Nordstrom.com.

For the fourth edition of GQ Selects, we’ve chosen 12 fall essentials from the October issue. Check back each month for more.

September 21, 2012

The Real Deal: Selvedge Denim

If you’re new to the concept of jeans constructed with a truly masterful hand (the term ‘selvedge’ or ‘selvage’ is often used in menswear circles), we think the pros at one of our favorite denim brands, Sweden-based Nudie Jeans, explain it best. From NudieJeans.com:

“Selvedge denim is made on old-style shuttle looms. The fabric is woven using one continuous cross thread; the weft. As the weft loops back into the edge of the weave, the selvedge [derived from 'self edge'] edge is created…Selvedge production is much slower than conventionally produced denim [creating a softer, more durable fabric], and only the best raw materials are used. It can be compared to the ‘slow food’ movement; this is slow denim.”

Many pairs of Nudie, in particular, are also made with organic and/or recycled cotton. The following three videos show the unique life cycle of Nudie Jeans—from harvesting the organic cotton, to artisanal denim-distressing techniques, to the dismantling and revival of old jeans through fabric recycling.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uDIpHm9bCgo

 

One of the selvedge-denim connoisseur’s favorite topics is the art of breaking them in. The jeans in the picture up top started out in a deep, raw, untouched blue (often referred to as ‘dry’ selvedge—i.e., unwashed during the production process). As the owner, a guy named Jeppe, wore them day after day, the raw denim gradually faded in a completely unique way—you can even see where he kept his phone and wallet. Here’s another look at the breaking in process, month by month:


(click to enlarge)
 

Note that these remained unwashed for the first eight months. Purists will tell you that abstaining from laundering selvedge denim is vital to the personalized fading process. Here’s a chart, thanks to the people at Nudie, in case you’re not sure when the time is right:


 

Now that you’re in the top-shelf denim market, the choice is yours: Go raw and try your hand at wearing them in, or skip ahead to an artfully pre-distressed pair. Check out some of our favorite selvedge jeans below, or browse more options here:
SHOP ALL SELVEDGE DENIM | SHOP ALL MEN’S JEANS


Nudie | A.P.C. | Rising Sun


Baldwin | Hudson | 7 For All Mankind
 
 

[On-figure jean shots are from Nordstrom.com; other photos and videos courtesy of NudieJeans.com.]

“We’re going on a decade or more now of our love affair with A.P.C., when founder Jean Touitou introduced the New Standard jean. It’s the jean you buy and make your own. They are stiff as cardboard at first, but after a couple of wears, they break in like a great pair of shoes. The fit is perfect in that the waist sits on your hips but isn’t too low-rise and the slim, straight leg isn’t too skinny or too wide. 

We recommend holding off on washing them as long as possible to keep the dark, raw denim intact. When you finally do wash them, turn them inside-out in the bathtub with some cold water and Woolite® Dark, letting them drip dry. It’s the perfect jean if you’re going to pair with dressier items like a suit jacket and a pair of brogues – these are jeans that will elevate your look. They’re crisp and stiff and simple in the best way possible.”

—Jim Moore, GQ Creative Director

Each month, the editors of GQ, in collaboration with Nordstrom Men’s Fashion Director Tommy Fazio and the Men’s Shop, will select key items from the pages of GQ to feature right here on Nordstrom.com.

For the second edition of GQ Selects, we’ve chosen 16 Fall essentials from the August issue. Check back every month for more.