M∙A∙C Cosmetics Senior Artist Ashley Rudder explains how to re-create the face used for Kate Spade’s A/W ’15 runway show at New York Fashion Week.
“What was your favorite show this season?” That’s a question I keep hearing in the wake of Fashion Month. A slight bit of panic ensues after anyone asks me what my favorite looks were this season! However, as I mentally scroll through all of the glorious A/W ’15 shows, a few standout looks come to mind: perhaps the romantic, smoky-grey eyes that were created at Thom Browne? Or the futuristic “Bond Girl” black-and-white eyeliner at The Blonds?
Surprisingly enough, the look at Kate Spade–created by M∙A∙C Cosmetics Director of Makeup Artistry Lyne Desnoyers–has remained my makeup crush all season long!
I don’t want to keep this crush to myself, so here is how you can get the look (one you might get after walking on a brisk fall evening through the woods) with its subtly flushed cheeks and rosy pouts.
Velvety Fall Skin
To get this luxurious matte skin, M∙A∙C Artists used the new backstage must have–M∙A∙C’s Studio Waterweight SPF 30 Foundation (available Autumn/Winter 2015). This foundation was buffed into the skin using a soft face brush, like 109 small contour brush. Until this incredible product arrives in stores, the Face & Body Foundation gives a similar look.
Next, gently powder only through the center of the face using Prep + Prime Transparent Finishing Powder to ensure that your t-zone looks diffused and perfected.
The Cool-est Eyes
These eye products don’t just look smart, they are smart due to their longwearing formulas, chosen to create these perfectly preppy eyes.
First, gently wash M∙A∙C Powder Blush in ‘Tailor Grey’ (a gorgeous muted, taupey-grey) through the crease to create a contour that is cooler in tone. This will mimic the tones that the eye takes on when there’s a chill in the air. For medium and deeper skin tones, use the Paint Pot in ‘Groundwork’ or ‘Quite Natural’ as shade substitutions. Remember, you aren’t going for a “fierce” eye contour, so use a duo-fiber tapered blending brush like the 286 duo fibre blending brush to wash the easy-to-blend cream shadow softly onto your brow bone. This will accentuate your natural bone structure for that effortlessly polished look that Kate Spade is known for.
Next, use eyeshadow in ‘Yogurt’ (a sophisticated, yet feminine pink), and gently press it on lids using a soft flat brush like the 217 Blending Brush. The cool tone of the grey in the crease, paired with the subtle pink on the lid is stunning, and so polished!
Pretty, Plush Lashes
To create a lush fringe of lashes, press Fluidline gel in ‘Dipdown’ into your top lash line with the tip of a thin eyeliner brush like the 209 Eyeliner Brush. This will create a very thin, barely-there line that will make you look like you have thousands of mink-like lashes.
Then, curl your lashes, and follow with Extended Play Gigablack Lash, which defines each and every lash and provides long-lasting curl. Only apply mascara on the top lashes to create a youthful and wide-eyed effect.
You should groom your brows by brushing them up neatly with Brow Set in ‘Clear’, and lightly fill in areas that are sparse if needed.
The placement of the blush is what created the brisk mood for the look at Kate Spade. At the show, Tailored to Tease Retro Matte Liquid Lipcolour (available autumn/winter 2015) was lightly swept on the apples of the cheeks, and blended down for that slightly athletic, girly flush.
To re-create the look now, grab Pro Longwear Blush in ‘Peach Twist’ to get that soft, matte, pinky-rose flush.
This style of lip is reborn this season by using a burnt red, rather than the eggplant and merlot shades that were all the rage in 2014.
For the perfect application, prepping your lips is paramount, so start by using Lip Conditioner to plump up and smooth out the texture of winter-beaten lips. For the “blurred edge” effect, press on lipstick in ‘Dare You’ with a fluffy eyeshadow brush like the 217 Blending Brush, and apply it in thin layers to build that wintery stain.
This look will have you looking fresh-faced, and oh so chic! Get ready for the compliments to come rolling in!