The Zero + Maria Cornejo SS15 collection was a combination of nostalgia and femininity, inspired by a recent trip to London and Venice which was reminiscent of her time spent there in her youth—Cornejo used lace and light weight fabrics to create a casually understated effect. Dick Page for Shiseido and James Pecis for PHYTO and T3 were tasked with creating a fresh, summery, innocent look.
Big Beauty Ideas: To complement the static presentation style, the look is somewhat “removed, cold and synthetic,” according to Dick Page, Shiseido’s artistic director. Page went on to create a mannequin-like look “with abstract definition.”
Get the look:
1. Eye: Brows brushed in place and lids left bare, covered with sunglasses.
2. Lip: A distinct liner around the lips using the Shiseido Smoothing Eyeliner Pencil in brown, with skin tone-matched foundation colored inside the lines.
3. Face/Cheek: A quick wash of Shiseido Sheer & Perfect Foundation SPF 18 to remove any redness.
Nail the Inspiration: “The idea for this nail came from a multitude of places–the graphic pops of white in the clothing, the ode to polish on the gloves within the collection, and the nude makeup look with a strong lip liner,” says Deborah Lippmann, lead manicurist. “It was from this that I was able to transform the classic French manicure into something that was new and fresh—the ‘Band O’ French’.”
Get the look:
1. Nails were prepped with Deborah Lippmann Cuticle Remover with Lanolin and nourished with cuticle oil.
2. One layer of Gel Lab base coat was applied to nails.
3. After 60 seconds of drying time, two coats of Deborah Lippmann nail color in Naked (a clean, bare beige lacquer) was applied to nails (pictured).
4. To create the ‘Band O’ French’ with Amazing Grace, a pure white lacquer (pictured), Deborah held the nail brush parallel to the top tip of the nail, rotating the finger from left to right, so that the the finger moved – not the brush.
(**Additional tip: For a more precise application, try cutting bristles on either side of the nail polish brush.)
5. The previous step was repeated on the back of the nail near the cuticle, and lined in the same way as the tip.
6. For lining the sides of the nail, the brush application was started at the back, pulling up to the front edge of the nail.
7. Nails were sealed with Gel Lab top coat to prevent chipping and add a high-shine, cushiony finish.
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Inspiration: For MARC BY MARC JACOBS spring/summer 2014, Shiseido Artistic Director Dick Page offset bold blocks of color with very clean, almost “transparent” skin. Combining a soft and cool blue shade with a very vivid bright blue from the just-released Limited-Edition Eye Color Bar, the finished look is “natural with a crescent of blue.”
Get the look with these Shiseido products:
Eyes: Page did the eyes first, applying pale blue Shimmering Cream Eye Color in ‘Ice’ from lid to crease and blending up toward the brow. Then, the electric blue Curacao shade from the Eye Color Bar was added in a “kind of crescent, half-moon,” following the natural shape of the eye to create more weight.
Tip: When you’re working with a cream shadow, use a fluffy brush and build on the color to prevent creasing.
Face: Using a light wash of the ‘Sheer & Perfect’ Foundation SPF 18 helped skin look as bare as possible. A dusting of powder kept skin natural, matte and “very real.”
Lips: Lips were neutral and smooth thanks to ‘Benefiance’ Full Correction Lip Treatment.
Each model wore an oversized wide-brimmed knit hat in Band of Outsiders‘ fall/winter 2013 show—it was up to Shiseido artistic director Dick Page to accentuate the shadows cast on their faces by the hats. He created raccoon eyes using Shiseido Shimmering Cream Eye Shadow in Sable and finished of each look with Shiseido Perfect Rouge in Showgirl—the sole pop of color.
“While Page’s eccentric shadowing of the eyes made them less of a focus, what remains a staple for fall is a vibrant red lip.” –Debra Redmond, Nordstrom National Beauty Director
Check out the final runway looks in our Band of Outsiders runway report.