Fashion has come to expect a poetic gesture from Dries Van Noten, but Wednesday’s runway presentation was really something special. It was an unseasonably warm and sunny day in Paris, but as soon as we entered the loftlike space, we encountered at least a visual chill: gorgeously rich and natural floral arrangements frozen in ice blocks, melting in a staggered row down the center of the room.
Though the frosted arrangements (the work of cult botanical artist Azuma Makoto) didn’t actually lower the temperature, the allusion was crystal clear. Spring is that magical thing that happens inside of and because of the bitter cold. From the dark of winter come the most beautiful flowers.
SEE DRIES VAN NOTEN’S SPRING ON ICE
Before Anthony Vaccarello was Anthony Vaccarello of Saint Laurent—back when he had his own private label and was part of the mix of emerging designers inside SPACE—we asked him what one word would describe his always-party-ready, dance-til-dawn looks.
His answer? Sharp.
All images: Indigital Images
On Tuesday, inside the shell of postindustrial grandeur, the Italian-Belgian designer debuted as Anthony Vaccarello of Saint Laurent Paris by sending out an army of sharply dressed babes who were ready for any party—and the world.
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There are several things we’ve come to count on from Kiev-based Julie Paskal: laser-cut details, a strong sense of color and a bridge between old-world tradition and the modern nightclub setting, to name a few. There’s also almost always a sense of story.
When we launched SPACE just over a year ago, she was exploring neo-archetypes of the traveling circus. Last season, when we met her here in Paris to see what is currently on offer for fall 2016, she told us all about the women who work in Ukrainian flower stands and how, for her, that yielded a collection completely free from florals.
All images by Jessa Carter
But this season, instead of presenting a character-driven narrative, she bounced off of the art world. Don’t worry, though; there were lots of lovely cutout accents and right-now ruffles.
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American designer Joseph Altuzarra is one of the most Parisian New Yorkers we know. He’s existed between the Big Apple and the City of Light for most of his life, and is equally comfortable in both cities—as we documented when we asked him to narrow in on the best things in each spot.
All images by Jessa Carter
So who better to turn to today as Paris Fashion Week begins. We asked Joseph to give us his three favorite neighborhoods—excusez-moi, arrondissements—and an Altuzarra look to go with each.
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There was no shortage of glitz or glamour in the fashions presented in Milan last week—the embellishment at just Gucci or Dolce&Gabbana alone could outfit a parade float. While these decorative flourishes create a luster of new, the industry in Italy is an established bedrock of the national economy and craftsman culture, something Italian Prime Minister Matteo Renzi enthusiastically acknowledged at the opening of MFW during a lunch held at La Scala, Milan’s famous opera house, with the fashion elite (including Donatella Versace, Pierpaolo Piccioli, Giorgio Armani and Anna Wintour).
Here are some of the highlights from Milan Fashion Week. Each shows why Italy is still the home of alta moda.
1. Dolce&Gabbana tropical accessories
Images by Indigital Images
Introduced by tarantella breakdancers, the exuberant clothes on Dolce&Gabbana’s spring 2017 runway suggested a cheerful albeit fictional vacation destination, one that offers band instruments aplenty, LED lights, and a menu of fish, pizza, pasta and fruit. The theme was “Tropico Italiano,” described as “an imaginary line that marks the territory which stretches from Naples to Sicily.” Although the clothes were as refreshing as a tropical trip, the accessories were pure delight. Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce created elaborate crowns and turbans as headpieces, drum kits and mandolins were really handbags, and the shoes both literally and figuratively shone.
Images by Indigital Images
CONTINUE THE COUNTDOWN
Candid snaps of the street-style scene at Fashion Week spring ’17, from our Global Trend Reporter Kristin Yamada.
SEE THE SLIDESHOW
Photos by Kristin Yamada
Milan Fashion Week may be over, but the inspiration is endless. Here are some of our favorite (shoppable!) looks from MFW so far—captured by our gimlet-eyed street-style reporter Kristin Yamada—that we plan on emulating posthaste.
SEE (AND SHOP) THE LOOKS
As the fashion weeks roll on (full coverage here) with just Paris to go, we continue to bring you street style slideshows of what men wore. First there was New York City, then there was London and now: Milan.
Click through the slideshow below and be inspired by brightly colored knits, dangly keychains, ripped jeans and mock turtlenecks. And of course: classic Italian tailoring.
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Our Designer Collections buyers are great resources when it comes to predicting what celebrities will wear to awards shows, recommending where to grab a coffee in any international city, suggesting what to pick up at our Anniversary Sale and, of course, telling us what we’ll see in stores after they’ve seen it on the runway.
Turns out our buyers are also excellent advisors when it comes to travel packing. We spoke with buyer Sahar Sokhandan about some of the things she’s bringing to Paris and why.
WHAT SAHAR IS PACKING