Fashion Bytes: Valentino Promises the Moon at Paris Fashion Week
Photos by Indigital Images
Welcome to Fashion Bytes, a cheat sheet for your favorite runway designers. From style inspirations to behind-the-scenes scoops, here’s everything worth knowing at Paris Fashion Week Spring 2018.
The brand: Valentino
The history: Although he officially retired in January 2008, Valentino Clemente Ludovico Garavani maintains considerable fashion fame and influence. Since 1960, when the designer established his maison in Rome, Valentino has been synonymous with his romantic, elegant gowns worn by the world’s most glamorous women: Jacqueline Kennedy, Elizabeth Taylor, Audrey Hepburn, Princess Diana. His decidedly feminine designs and signature poppy color—rosso Valentino, a trademark mix of 100% magenta, 100% yellow and 10% black—are a recurring presence on red carpets, as is the octogenarian.
The designer: Following Valentino’s retirement, Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri were appointed co-creative directors of the Italian house. Since Chiuri’s departure for Dior in 2016, Piccioli has taken up the mantle solo. His interpretation of Valentino retains its Italian pedigree by way of Renaissance art history and modern utility.
The show: Inspired by astronaut William Anders’s images of the Earth taken from the moon, Piccioli waxed about the “romantic idea of the moon, the moon as a second chance,” a place “where you can find what’s lost in the heart.” Like ethereal interplanetary colonizers, models floated down the runway in bubble-hem ball gowns with racer necklines layered under sheaths scooped so low at times as to seem like loose harnesses. Plastic moto jackets bore trims of silver sequins. Color-blocked anoraks and pockets on everything from chainmail jumpsuits to beaded eveningwear signaled that functionality was as much a consideration as the carefully placed paillettes.
The F-row: The man himself. Valentino enjoyed the show in the company of Carla Bruni, Alexa Chung, Marion Cotillard, Jeanne Damas and the Haim sisters.
The verdict: Assuming all lunar recruits get such a wardrobe, where do we sign up for this seriously stunning space camp?