Helmut Lang’s Shayne Oliver-Designed Collection at New York Fashion Week
In a one-season-only engagement, Shayne Oliver designed the spring/summer 2018 collection for Helmut Lang, the pioneering designer brand. The collection premiered at New York Fashion Week in a runway show billed as Helmut Lang Seen by Shayne Oliver.
The clothes combined Helmut Lang’s strapped-in aesthetic with Oliver’s downtown NYC style, made famous by his recently defunct brand Hood By Air. The show occurred in an emporium filled with heavy-duty scaffolding, lights, speakers and other purely functional décor—and a who’s who of popular music in attendance.
Read more about the show and see a full slideshow below.
SHOP: Helmut Lang
Oliver was free with his approach: he turned the idea of dressing inside out (oversized bras worn on top of coats), lampooned business casual (clear plastic briefcases, mac coats with exposed armpits) and provided glamorous red-carpet looks (sheer gowns, crinkly metallic leather suits). Clothing colors were black and white with shades of red (cherry, bronze, pink), and themes included industrial hardness, resolute modernism and logo-heavy streetwear. His mission statement was printed on bags that models held over their heads like newspapers shielding them from rain: “Uncommon action in a society of repressed thoughts.”
Mixed in was a capsule collection of “tour merch,” logo tees that will be sold at Nordstrom very shortly—Oliver’s way of giving the people what they want (everyone likes a T-shirt) and pushing the Helmut Lang brand.
Music stars came out in full force—Diplo, Lil Yachty, A$AP Ferg, Dev Hynes, Cardi B, Offset from the Migos—and the soundtrack to the event engineered by Oliver’s friend, the DJ and producer Total Freedom, was ideal. As ominous noises segued into the pure beauty of Whitney Houston’s “I Have Nothing,” the sound was just like the clothes, abrasive and heavenly.
Photos by InDigital