Last Looks: Yesterday’s Runway at Givenchy, Jason Wu and Nicole Miller
Seemingly unfazed about relocating from Paris to New York Fashion Week, Riccardo Tisci marked his decadelong reign at Givenchy Friday by bringing the play on masculine and feminine back to basics.
The show was a spectacle of contrast showcasing ethereal lingerie-inspired laces draped and knotted over fluid tuxedo pants, topped with smoking jackets. Keeping it simple with black and white, Tisci once again showed us the art of taking opera-style eveningwear to the street.
Not one to shy away from theatrics, the designer enlisted performance artist Marina Abramović to collaborate on an emotional pre-show promoting love, spirituality and cross-cultural acceptance—exemplified by religious chants and the designer’s own decision to open the show to 800 members of the public (something to keep in mind for next year).
Clean lines and flounce were typically reflective of the celebrated designer’s composed and practical style, mixing it up with unfinished hemlines, fur patches and earthy tones reminiscent of the ’50s and ’60s.
With a knack for bringing sportswear to the runway, Wu added a touch of it to the collection with cropped jackets and high-waist trousers, even throwing in a flowing power suit with a lace bodice peeking out for good measure.
Shop: current season Jason Wu
New York grit for the modern woman, Nicole Miller took us back to the ’90s with her spring collection on Friday, breaking out bold graphics, reinvented sport suits and the staple cargo pant.
The energetic show channeled all things good from the past decade, drawing directly from the city’s streets to create pretty sequined frocks with graffiti-inspired graphics.
Miller reimagined the classics, taking denim overalls and turning them into peplum tanks, changing up the adidas athletic suit with palazzo-style pants and paint-splattered blouses, and slimming down cargo pants into chic skinny trousers.
Shop: current season Nicole Miller