Last Looks: Yesterday’s Runway at Alexander Wang, Altuzarra and Monique Lhuillier
Industry darling Alexander Wang celebrated his tenth year at the helm of his eponymous line with a knockout collection based in grunge, edge and androgyny.
Known for putting on a show, Wang made sure not to disappoint, using blasting music, a giant projection screen and pole dancers to inject the evening with an energy only the designer himself could create.
On the runway, deconstructed denim, oversized tees, pajama trousers and menswear-inspired trenches mixed with silk lingerie maxi dresses, skintight leather pants and his signature dose of sportswear (think basketball jersey weaves, clean white hoodies and the ever-trendy fashion sneak). Though we’re sorry to say there will be no return to Balenciaga for Wang next year, we’re excited to see what he’ll be doing with the free time.
Shop: current season Alexander Wang
Joseph Altuzarra returned to Mother Nature to inspire his spring collection, channeling earthy vibes with crisp whites, moody burgundies and burnt oranges reflective of his Basque heritage.
The designer steered the tie-dyes and fringe of the popular ’70s trend in a more euro-chic direction, incorporating old-school sensuality with thigh-high slits on classic skirt cuts and crumpled textures for more of a Spanish-countryside feel. He wasn’t out to make a huge statement with this collection, rather he created a more cohesive presentation full of relaxed and approachable pieces.
Chunky gold and rope details stood out against simple linen jumpsuits and midi dresses, making shell-hued sequined frocks even more of a standout. Bonus: two new purses, including a crocodile shoulder bag complete with a chunky braided strap and tassel detail.
Shop: current season Altuzarra
Pretty is as Monique Lhuillier does. Although ladylike as ever, the designer’s muse this season (as exhibited Saturday in New York) was playful, spirited and modern, in other words, confidently unfussy. Spring 2016 charmed with crisp shapes that nip and tuck, as Lhuillier’s lines do, so flatteringly along the feminine form. Contemporary jewel hues and embellishments like painted lace, splattered fabrics and stylized floral embroidery provided an element of surprise, like bon mots dropped into a sartorial conversation.
Lhuillier’s dresses seemed more forward looking, even as they channeled the breezy futurism of ’60s Pierre Cardin and Givenchy. Peplums orbited asymmetrically around the waist, ending in sharp trains like comet tails. Sheer chiffons gave sharp hems the illusion of fluidity, allowing strong tailoring to stay soft.
A cropped lace top, either on its own or over a sturdy white button-up, riffed on the trend of the moment. It’s a liberated, fun piece, whether worn more conservatively or daringly bare. Undoubtedly, Lhuillier’s dame is one with options.
Shop: current season Monique Lhuillier
The show is not over. There’s plenty more New York Fashion Week.