Last Looks: Yesterday’s Runways at Marchesa, Michael Kors, DKNY and BOSS
The Downton Abbey influence is in full effect at Marchesa, where this season brought a mesmerizing lineup of Edwardian-inspired gowns.
Necklines dripping with jewelry-like beading, layers of tulle rustling with English countryside blooms, gilt embroidery and even a crown or two contributed to the decidedly regal feel of design duo Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig’s fall show. A plunging column dress trimmed in silver fringe and a crimson-embroidered tulle mermaid gown seem especially likely candidates to walk another very important runway: the red carpet.
At Michael Kors this season, it’s all about the mix—wisps of elegant ostrich feather atop denim, extra-long cuffs and short little skirts, sequins for day and sweatshirts for night.
Vibrant, decidedly un-autumnal shades of lavender and grass green, leg-baring carwash skirts and flowery fur pieces were unlikely candidates for a fall collection, but they added an element of youthful flirtation to Kors mainstays like beautiful knits and sharply tailored jackets. Poshly preppy men walked the runway alongside their primly dressed female counterparts. Tweedy and polished as the blouses, skirts and peacoats were, each exhibited the potential to be party-ready given the occasion and inclination.
SHOP: current season Michael Kors
If Donna Karan’s diffusion label was built in part on the DKNY letters, newly christened designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne opted for a more tongue-in-cheek approach.
Easy, draped tees, the train of a silk dress and a boxy chambray popover bore the words “insert logo here” or a .png file path, leaving no doubt in the minds of showgoers about the brand’s streetwise verve and new direction. Not that there would be any doubt on that front, after watching look after cocoon-like look slouch down the runway. But after the oversized wide-leg overalls came a softer finish, balancing bold silhouettes with ’90s-inspired silk slip dresses and a slinky skirt in siren red. Playing with the label’s acronym yielded some particularly pointed phrasing on sweatshirts that ended the show.
SHOP: current season DKNY
With barely a straight seam in sight, this season at BOSS was all about sophisticated movement.
Curved panels of watery silk lent ease and fluidity to the many mid-length dresses designer Jason Wu sent down the runway, while a palette of muted cantaloupe and avocado green referenced a subtle ’70s influence. Slouched trousers and asymmetrical ruffles—which read more sculptural than fussy—furthered Wu’s bid for added movement thanks to impeccable tailoring, a house signature.
SHOP: current season BOSS for women