Last Looks: Yesterday’s Runways at CHANEL, Kenzo, Valentino and Ellery
Usually one to put on a show, Karl Lagerfeld has moved on from his CHANEL airports, supermarkets and street cafés to a refreshingly subdued runway with simple white carpet and gold seating—c’est tout–at the Grand Palais.
For fall, the legendary designer reworked the brand’s classics. Multimedia boater hats, exaggerated pearl necklaces and camellia motifs–that ranged from large prints to heavily appliquéd cuffs–combined retro and trendy. The iconic CHANEL tweeds were saturated in neon berry hues, sometimes worked in with denim, and always paired with matching riding boots and caps. Standout pieces with sure street-style futures include the charming and ethereal, tiered ivory lace frocks in every length and the oversized pearl necklaces that accessorized the majority of looks.
Americans in Paris Humberto Leon and Carol Lim put on a patriotic show Tuesday for Kenzo, proving that French fashion can be cool and classic.
Not much for minimalism, the duo infused their signature quirkiness into oversized and sporty designs for fall. Large floral embroidery popped on satin-trimmed woolen dusters and matching cropped bombers while smocking cinched the necks, busts and wrists of numerous billowing blouses and maxis. Contrast stitching framed and accented denim jackets and off-the-shoulder dresses, all paired with mannish button downs whose strong collars mirrored the angular stitch work. For the daring, there were mutton sleeves and giant shoulder frills, and for the subdued trendsetter: velvet cigarette pants and salvage denim boyfriends.
SHOP: current season Kenzo
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have created a recognizable and unique aesthetic working together at Valentino, showing that all you need is the right cut and fabric to make a statement.
The collection was embellished minimalism, most strongly marked by a billowing mustard yellow velvet maxi and jeweled gauze gypsy gown. The designers worked in charming and delicate touches of print on the simplest looks, using small geometric, floral and cumulus-shaped prints either embellished or embroidered onto flowing knit maxis, ankle-grazing coats, pleated wrap skirts or sweet cocktail dresses. Nude hues were the basis of the collection, accented with earthy greens and oxbloods. Velvet frocks over turtlenecks formed quirky but wearable day looks that made the floor-length, jewel-encrusted, ruffled and gladiator fringed closing gowns seem even more ornate.
SHOP: current season Valentino
Ushered into the modern age by the likes of the Kardashians, the corset trend was ingeniously reinterpreted in an undone way at Kym Ellery’s fall showcase.
Lacing whipped off the hems and arms of dusters, thigh-slit dresses and oversized coats while deconstructed contrast-stitched corsets belted (rather than cinched) floor-length coats and roomy frocks with a singular top-button. With large proportions, Ellery emphasized the cuts on mannish coats with back boning and took bell sleeves and pants to new extremes with even more voluminous flare. Slightly roomy corduroy dresses were a refreshing alternative to prevalent velvet, while fit-and-flare and boyfriend-cut denim marked the brand’s first foray into the textile. Standout lamé dresses buttoned neck high to a deep-V and incorporated ballooning sleeves. Bonus: the heart-shaped fur infinity scarfs that are sure to trend come fall.
SHOP: current season Ellery