Last Looks: Yesterday’s Runways at MARC JACOBS and J. Mendel
Marc Jacobs traveled back past the ’90s style revival to Victorian Gothic for his fall collection.
Kendall Jenner, Lady Gaga and other usually lovely ladies circled the Park Avenue Armory like crazed crows. Whitewashed faces, except for bleary black eyeliner, were surrounded by finger-waved hair; their ghostly mien overcome by the dark and dramatic clothes that seemed intent on swallowing them. Hypersized lace dickies and collars lay atop equally enormous silhouettes. Jet trails of muted sage, periwinkle and orchid amidst old MJ signifiers including polka dots and Stinky Rat prints swarmed hemlines above vertiginous platform boots. Exquisite velvet-and-lace evening looks met modern goth in Jacobs’s mildew-hued fur, gargantuan bows and sequined and feathered toppers.
SHOP: current season MARC JACOBS
J. Mendel closed Fashion Week with a collection of uncompromising beauty.
Inconspicuous consumption could be the mantra of J. Mendel’s woman, who devours each fashion plate in her path while dressed in proper pinstriped coats and floor-length, metallic chiffon gowns. Natural makeup and slicked middle parts focus the eyes on the flattering lines and tailoring. Primary red and blue made a fully engaged fall palette, with earthy emerald accenting office-ready black and white. Structured-bodice dresses referenced sport with cutaway shoulders and slits to the hip. One can hope the classic tan skirts with interruptions of black knife pleats and timelessly flattering darts and necklines will trickle down into everyday fashion.