Last Looks: Yesterday’s Runways at Peter Pilotto, Christopher Kane, Antonio Berardi and Burberry
Distancing themselves from the digital microprints that were once their bread and butter, Peter Pilotto‘s designers offered a collection of winter wears as practical as they were opulent.Looking to nature and the northern landscape as inspiration for their tactile fall showcase, Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos added colors and textures evocative of icy winter scenery. Majestic sweeping hemlines, fluid silks, luxe furs and lace added a soft, Nordic feel with abstract swirling chenille embroidery and delicate knitwear offering substance. Large pinstripe pantsuits were more lackluster, but tiered ruffles on Lurex lace two-pieces joined rippling metallic frocks to close out the show with a bang.
If there were ever a designer to take florals in an inventive and curious direction, it’s probably Christopher Kane with his penchant for dark and quirky designs.
Kane’s Fall collection channeled English gardens and Grey Gardens, with a scope of florals and plastic rain bonnets accenting almost every look. Vintage-tinged rose print frocks played with drape and structure, combining silk swaths that snaked around and flowed out from structured bodices. Botanical laces lent an air of sensuality to the leather paneled tea dresses, alongside slinky silk slip dresses that channeled a touch of grunge with their slouchy cardis and shearling toppers. Jeweled safety pinning on cutout frocks and woolen coats will hopefully make a starlet’s cut for the red carpet, while broad pinstripe knits with crochet flower attachés lend the right amount of retro charm to daywear.
SHOP: current season Christopher Kane
Christopher Bailey has been subtly pushing Burberry towards an edgier aesthetic since his induction as creative director in 2004, reworking the brand’s quintessentially English designs without losing its signature polish.London’s cool-girl Edie Campbell opened the show in a geometric jacquard mini, perforated knit tights and a floor-dusting navy military coat that set the tone for the parade of lacquered, woolen and shiny wears. With a strong nod to David Bowie and ’70s glam rock (note the dusting of Ziggy Stardust-inspired glitter on the models’ faces), Bailey drove the theme home with oversized and androgynous outerwear made interesting with sizable military hardware, neon fur collars and python detailing.
SHOP: current season Burberry
Antonio Berardi’s dark and romantic Fall collection held a familiar moody sensuality, with refined construction and feminine detailing stealing the show.Opening with coats bound in straps and buckles, the designer began his parade of jet black fall formalwear, tailored to a T with nipped waists and clean lines. This season showcased a tenacious and feminine kind of glamour, with multi-lace and velvet gowns that played with structure and fluidity. Tiered chiffons on already floor-grazing gowns contrasted with stiff and quirky sleeveless leather coats. Berardi’s strongest looks lay in the all-black ensembles as he moved on to lipstick reds and crisp whites, later venturing into curvy bombers in silky grays, bruised lavenders and rich burgundies.