London Fashion Week: February 23
Highlights and commentary from yesterday’s London Fashion Week runway shows: Burberry Prorsum swings into the ’70s with plenty of suede, fringe and the must-have boots of the season, while Christopher Kane creates lavish lace nudes that are museum pieces in motion. Plus, Erdem‘s sensual ode to the clutter of a collector and Peter Pilotto offers up ’80s-arcade-inspired chalet chic.
Fashion Office Bottom Line: The late ’60s and early ’70s proved the starting point for Burberry’s Christopher Bailey: A richly layered collection of luxe boho looks (evocative of Talitha Getty) featured vintage floral and carpet prints, with appliquéd and fringed suede and with beautiful mirror work embellishments. Capes, ponchos and multi-tiered, calf-length dresses were grounded by must-have tasseled patchwork boots.
Fashion Office Bottom Line: Christopher Kane played against the prevailing ’70s mood we’re seeing from London, showing a sharply edited lineup of sleek and graphic silhouettes that revisited some of his past ideas in terms of innovative cutting and intriguing fabric manipulations. The palette was grounded in black with primary red and blue, while details like pleats, ruffles, appliqué and cutouts were strictly controlled, for a look of cool-girl minimalism sure to be a hit with his many fans.
Fashion Office Bottom Line: Erdem’s beautiful collection played with another theme emerging from London: vintage-inspired tapestry and furnishing florals. These were served up in delectable, deep jewel tones in his signature ladylike and feminine silhouettes. Deconstructed and frayed edges stopped everything from looking too precious and lent an overall mood of dark romance. The stunning finale dresses and skirts are sure to be favorites on the red carpet this fall.
Fashion Office Bottom Line: Intricately worked, appliquéd and embroidered – the fall ’15 collection from Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos was a subverted and cool take on classic femininity. Heavy lace and cut shearling were mixed up with myriad influences ranging from free-form mid-century inspired prints and ’80s club-kid neon references. Bold and totally original.
See all of our Fashion Week coverage.