Fashion Week

London Fashion Week: September 15

Highlights from yesterday’s shows, including a verdant greenhouse at Erdem, an English summer at Burberry Prorsum, and a Louise Wilson homage at Christopher Kane.

Erdem: Erdem Moralioglu ventured into the jungle with a collection that referenced Victorian biologist Marianne North. The combination of wild-meets-refined ran throughout the show in sumptuous foliage patterns overlaid on prim silhouettes.

Eyelet and sheer panels were seen in multiple iterations, lending a sensuality and airiness to the runway.

Feathers in deep jewel tones accented many looks, adding a lavishly decadent touch to the dark magic of the entire show.

Burberry Prorsum: Chief Creative Officer Christopher Bailey explored the ideas of contradiction, rebirth, and an idyllic English summer in his collection called “The Birds and the Bees.” Sparkling, oversized paillettes adorned skirts that were paired with peplum denim jackets .

The signature Burberry trench was reimagined in bright hues with patent collars and graphic elements.

Christopher Kane: The British designer revisited ideas from his studies at Saint Martins under the late professor Louise Wilson, to whom he dedicated his presentation. A knotted rope motif reappeared in an invigorating new form and tied his past and present visions together.

“Controlled explosions” of tulle jutting up from collars or out of hems pushed new boundaries and made these pieces some of the most singular looks from the collection.

See all of our Fashion Week coverage.

Eric Swecker