Fashion Week

New York Fashion Week Last Looks: Yesterday’s Runways at Opening Ceremony, Diane von Furstenberg, Victoria Beckham and Public School

Opening_Ceremony_114_fw16The trends of yesterday have always proved a endless store of inspiration for the savvy designer; those of the future, not so much. Why? To put it simply, it hasn’t happened yet. Perhaps that’s the reason designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon offered such a successful take on fast-forward fashion: they had the tangible art of visual futurist Syd Mead (of Blade Runner fame) to reference. The duo paid tribute quite literally—with the artist’s work printed atop color-blocked sweatshirts and a runway peppered with inflatable hovercrafts designed by Mead himself—while also taking the opportunity to explore more freely the idea of futuristic ready-to-wear, sans cartoonish construction.

SHOP: current season Opening Ceremony

LSCDVF

Video: Laura Sullivan Cassidy Instagram

The mood at the DVF showroom last night was probably best described as a Disco Dance Party. And for good reason. Why shouldn’t the reigning queen of wearable ’70s glamour celebrate—with modeling’s biggest names, of course—fashion’s current obsession with all things groovy? As expected, there was the stunning beaded and sequined finale wrap dress worn like gilded armor by friend-of-the-brand Karlie Kloss, but there was also a parade of workwear in the trademark riot of colors and prints made fresh with pops of rich texture. Satin bags, fur stoles, patched-together leather paillettes atop a smart short-sleeve top rounded out the outfits. After all, fun is, was and ever shall be the gospel of Diane von Furstenberg.

SHOP: current season Diane von Furstenberg

victoria_beckham_144_fw16Victoria Beckham built her eponymous brand on beautiful tailoring: a svelte wiggle dress, a pin-straight pencil skirt, maybe even a slinky slip frock. And while this season’s showing offers plenty of sharp construction to love ( such as feminine bustier bodices reworked for daywear), it’s a pleasure to see a few less severe silhouettes in the mix. Softer bubble hems and cozy, cocooning layers provided a slightly-more-relaxed foil for the designer’s love of a defined waist. Masculine tweeds and plaids added further dimension to the collection, balancing posh pieces with a hint of the English countryside.

SHOP: current season Victoria Beckham

Public_School_114_fw16It seems that not even Public School has escaped the ‘90s grunge revival. But don’t expect the quintessential mix of hip slung tartan and crop tops from the design duo. If Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow’s muse is New York City, this season it’s the NYC of The Warriors: war-torn and raw. The looks featured the familiar tomboy tailoring and deft layering that’s become a calling card of their menswear line, while frayed denim pieces stood out as perfectly contemporary. In keeping with the post-apocalyptic outlaw theme, wide swaths of polished leather girded the waists of many of the most memorable tops, and silver carabiners secured to oversized grommets held together high-side slits for a no-nonsense embellishment. After all, outlaws don’t have time for buttons.

SHOP: current season Public School

—Hannah Cross