New York Fashion Week Last Looks: Yesterday’s Runways at Tibi, Altuzarra, Alexander Wang and Rebecca Minkoff
Renowned member of the minimalism pack, Amy Smilovic took androgyny to new levels with her latest collection for Tibi, giving us a new sense of direction for fall.And not androgyny in the way everyone else is doing it either. The founder’s take is less “borrowed from the boys” and more “gender fluid,” or as Smilovic put it: “the way a woman wears a guy’s jeans—a guy can wear a woman’s, too.” There’s a style in the ease Smilovic has perfected at the helm of Tibi, one that doesn’t rely on bold patterns and structure, but on simplicity and comfort. There’s never a sense that the clothing is trying too hard, but at the same time there’s nothing underrated about it. Languid silk slips and lace blouses, sans bras, layered under oversized blazers added sensuality to a predominantly male-influenced showcase. Carefully layered velvets, mohairs, furs and metallics all made an appearance in military greens, terracottas and oxbloods with touches of quartz, emerald green and blush.
SHOP: current season Tibi
In creating his fall showcase, Joseph Altuzarra went for unlikely combinations, pairing pieces that weren’t necessarily connected to create a new take on this season’s bohemian trend.
With mismatched styling saturating the style world, Joseph Altuzarra managed to reinvent the trend for fall with his signature refined manner. Incorporating his famed tailoring and feminine air into the mix, Altuzarra presented a mash-up of prints, textures and movement in his latest collection suited for the free-spirited women of the world. Flowing, microprinted silks boldly mixed with heavy shearling coats while shag-infused sweaters and seductive gypsy-inspired maxis flowed down the runway to close the show.
SHOP: current season Altuzarra
Alexander Wang pulled out all the stops in creating a fall showcase chock-full of blatant juxtaposition.Perhaps being an industry darling has pushed Wang to his unorthodox design mantra, maybe it was that last ethereal collection for Balenciaga. Either way, it’s a contrast that manifested itself Saturday inside St. Bartholomew’s Church with a slew of punk-embellished tweeds and raunchy prints. Taking the trendy grunge look to the dark side by throwing in a heavy dose of goth, Wang sent a storm of models down the runway adorned in chains, mohair and cleverly censored tops à la his Spring 2014 show. Sift through the shock factor pieces to find standouts like a faux-fur-lined denim jacket, a not-so-subtly transparent argyle sweater and a new-wave checked and striped pink maxi.
SHOP: current season Alexander Wang
Rebecca Minkoff went west for her Fall showcase, designing a collection sure to catch the eyes of Coachella jet-setters and Wild West lovers alike.Designing with the decidedly warmer, Gold Coast climate in mind (we can only assume, given the stampede of tanks, cropped denim and short-and-sweet prairie dresses), Minkoff created a collection made for today’s bohemian woman. Modern cowgirl touches appeared in saddle-brown suedes morphed into fringed jackets and culottes, pieces that mingled with Minkoff’s lavender-hued miniskirt suit and moto jacket. The pebbled black biker coat was the tough girl of the show, its fringed cape counterpart coming in second. And, of course, the namesake bags, this time are based in light brown, grey and black with tassel and stud accents to mirror the show’s eclectic, free-loving vibe.
SHOP: current season Rebecca Minkoff