Fashion Week SPACE

Paris Fashion Week: Dressing on the Side with Jacquemus on the Runway and in the Showroom

Sometimes there’s one look that sums up a whole runway show, even a whole season. There’s probably too much going on in Paris this week to rest all of it on any one thing, but there is a single Jacquemus dress that definitely summarizes the entirety of Jacquemus for fall 2016.

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We—or SPACE buy planner Sarah Anderson at least—have a good/bad name for it (depends on whether you love or hate puns). On the runway and in the showroom, this slanted and shimmery baby blue number just epitomized the surreal, slightly absurd and totally covetable collection.

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The Jacquemus runway presentation on the first day of Paris Fashion Week was carnival-like in its mood and vibe (check out the music below—a purposefully disorienting cut, stop, start, paste mashup) but just plain super cool in terms of what it offered for your wardrobe.

As for the blue It dress: Could you wear that? Would you? That’s maybe beside the point. Here’s Olivia and crew discussing it in the car immediately after the show. (Spoiler alert: good/bad nickname revealed here.)

We’d definitely love to meet up for an espresso on the amazing day when and if you rock it, but the thing is, there are show pieces and then there are everyday pieces. And when Simon Jacquemus is making them, they’re all pretty special.

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Inside his cool and lofty neighborhood showroom, we got a chance to witness the very wearable elements from the show up-close—in what felt like next-level display colors. Where past collections have been elegantly austere in their palette (last season’s navy and whites are live on our site now), fall feels downright punchy.

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Designers do love a recurring motif, and it was cool to see that shimmery blue show up in a layered, two-piece shirting style. Another important alliteration inside the collection was shape. Shapes—exaggerated, structured and otherwise—being, of course, an all-important tenant of the overall Jacquemus look.

Structured pants with a sort of panel-like flap felt totally brand new; interesting but in an understated way, and a suite of super-chunky turtlenecks looks right to absolutely live in (with a certain sense of flair) come next season.

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Elsewhere plaids, stripes and ties were so immediate and accessible, it seems almost unfair that we have to wade through a season to get our hands on them.

The Dressing on the Side dress is like the team mascot, but these cool day-to-day pieces are the ones that’ll score the points.

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See all of our Fashion Week coverage, shop the trends and get inspired on our Designer Collections Fashion Week hub.

SHOP: current season Jacquemus

—Laura Cassidy