Powder and Pompadours by Guerlain and Oribe at A Détacher | Backstage Beauty
As though Katharine Hepburn strolled into the court of King Louis XV, A Détacher’s 1930s-styled suits and bow blouses marched the runway underneath hair powdered and piled high. The pale faces were juxtaposed nicely with Mona Kowalska’s bright and patterned clothes. The designer’s theme was “going awry,” a commentary on current politics. So her pantsuits that veered toward the punky seemed like a rallying uniform.
Photo by Indigital Images
To balance Kowalska’s rebellious yet comfortable sportswear collection, Orlando Santiago of Guerlain pulled from the French Court and the Victorian era, symbols of pomp and circumstance when it comes to grooming. Kien Hong of Oribe topped things off with pompadours, that French hairstyle made famous by the king’s courtesan and adopted by subsequent subcultures.
Get the makeup:
With a pale complexion and muted red lips, Guerlain focused on keeping the skin very light, radiant and simple.
1. To get this look, Orlando used Guerlain Perfecting Météorites primer all over the face to add shimmer and radiance without making the skin glossy.
2. In the center of the cheeks he applied the new La Petite Robe Noire lip and cheek tint.
3. Then a light layer of Lingerie de Peau foundation was added all over the face and cheeks.
4. The look demanded that the eyes be muted since the lips were such a focal point. Orlando used Multi-Perfecting concealer under the eyes and on the eyelids to correct dark circles. He did a nude brow to add dimension and texture to the face using the one-color eyeshadow in White mixed with Multi-Perfecting concealer.
5. For the lip, Orlando wanted to create a matte look with smooth edges. He started by preparing the lips with KissKiss Liplift, then layered on Rouge G de Guerlain lipcolor in Garconne, smudging the edges for a softer look. To soften the lips even more, he used Météorites compact powder on top of the lips.
SHOP: Guerlain makeup
Get the hair:
The hair was very elaborate, unique to each girl, and required multiple Oribe products used with figure-8 pins.
1. Start with a base of Oribe Foundation Mist to prepare the hair for styling.
2. Add Maximista Thickening Spray to wet hair for ultimate volume and to protect during heat styling. Blow dry.
3. Apply the cult-favorite Dry Texturizing Spray at the base of the roots to create that pompadour lift.
4. Straighten hair with a flat iron.
5. Pin hair into place, either as a very loose bun at the back of the head or in a half-up hairstyle, being sure to keep the front piece elevated in a teased pompadour.
6. Apply the Imperméable Spray to the roots and top. This will maintain the hair’s soft look.
SHOP: Oribe hair
There’s plenty more beauty and fashion coverage from New York Fashion Week.