Asking for a Friend: How to Wear the Farmer Cuff, Big Break and Trim Casual Trouser?
We had our in-house aces at Studio N depict a few calculated style risks for the upcoming cold season, because sometimes it’s good to step outside your comfort zone.
Style risk: the farmer cuff
The farmer cuff (no actual farming required) is absolutely trending. Wear it with no socks or no-show socks, always. This roughly six-inch cuff turns your regular pants into a pair of cropped pants. It’s a lot more successful with vintage-feeling, wide-leg styles.
Alternatively with dark denim or chinos, avoid the farmer cuff and do a clean double roll. Same goes with cargos. Speaking of: there’s a passé but vocal perception about cargo pants being corny, a Disneyland dad thing. Ignore that. The cargo pant is a classic. A small double roll works well with a thin cargo. Since there’s so much going on leg-wise already (the cargo pocket), it’s about keeping it sleek.
More Farmer Cuff inspiration: denim on denim, mixing Calvin Klein of the ‘90s (the jacket ) with Levi’s from the ‘70s (the pants). It’s the next evolution of normcore. Another good option to complete your Farmer Cuff look: white tee, middle layering piece (cardigans work well, as do thin denim jackets or thicker overshirts) and a topcoat.
Style risk: the big break
The big break is another option as daring as the farmer cuff. It’s a purposely baggy look. For the uninitiated, the break is where your pants hit the shoe with some material to spare, stacking on top of your shoelaces (see the image on the upper left). A big break comes with longer pants and a wider leg. To make it work with a suit, our in-store tailors can help. Ask a salesperson and it can be done with alacrity. To make the big break work with off-the-rack pants, you must understand the fabrication of the pants. You want a sturdy material. You want a proper break, not a puddle of pants at your feet. A thinner fabric, like a silk blend or wool blend, won’t sit the same. To plan the stack you need material that sits on itself when it’s scrunched down: Army ripstop, a heavy wool trouser, vintage denim will all work but need to have a heavier volume. And don’t forget the wideness of the leg. The big break requires a wide leg.
SHOP: all suits
Style risk: trim casual trousers
With everyone cuffing, it’s become something of a risk to go the other direction and get a true, trim, clean trouser, with no cuff. Think about it like this: chinos get a double cuff, wide-leg vintage jeans get a farmer cuff, and wool trousers, like these, you leave alone. This look may require a tailor to get the height right for you. Again, ask your store salesperson and it can be done on site, briskly. This yields a more formal pant but one you can easily make casual with sneakers and a bomber jacket. A chunky turtleneck sets it off perfectly.
SHOP: wool trousers
— Chad Christensen and Andrew Matson